Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)
Careful with a "wet" system as it will freeze! You want either a FM200 system (pricey) or a "dry" system; however, the water source and dry valve need to be heated! There are anti-freeze systems as well, I cannot remember the name? CPVC or Blazemaster needs to be 100% sealed in soffits and chases as UV rays will break it down. Copper is a good choice; albeit, more expensive!
I once sold a stand alone "dry" system to a Big "R" farm store in Falcon, Colorado...no direct water source...when I quoted the developer over $1million for the complete code required system (100,000 gallon cistern, UL rated pump, generator with shunt, etc....), it would've stalled the store being built. I love thinking outside the box...I got the local FD (Falcon Fire, approx 2 miles down the highway, to accept pressurized dry system with smoke and heat alarms...If I remember correctly (it's been over 12 years ago) the system ended up costing them just over $35K?! When the large enough water supply made it that way it was converted to a wet system! Basically, it would alarm the FD of an alarm (whether smoke, heat or frangible bulb breakage, pressure release). Then the FD could respond with 2 engines and a Tender and connect to the FDC...that would be the sole water supply!
I like the idea, sold a ton of pre-action systems to auto body shops...my only caveat for you is be careful if the bulbs/heads get painted...they lose their respective ratings because it insulates the frangible bulbs (or fusible links). Of course, I'm not sure if you plan painting a lot?
Cheers!
~Brett