1987 Starcraft islander 190v?

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 15, 2021
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135
When you get it down to the bare hull, patch holes, replace the transom - thats basically the start of the full rebuild. Once your decks are solid and back in, the rest can be rebuilt as your money and time see fit. But you are setting the stage for a solid boat for many years. I still have work to do on mine, but she got back on the water in less than a year.
Heck yeah. Motivation to get back at it. 👍
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 15, 2021
Messages
135
Free foam, From a building that I was building power lines to.
 

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SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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1,725
Nothing like free!!

SHSU
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 15, 2021
Messages
135
Well I did a pre splash! Did not leak a single drop. Before I had to have bilge pumps on every 5minutes. Got a link and sync done. Right at 28degrees at WOT.
She ran really well. I’m glad I had a mechanic look at this motor it seems to be in really good condition. Still trying to battle corrosion.... every rivet below the water line has corrosion on it. BIG job I have read.
 

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classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
StarCraft on the Water!!

Congratulations!!

so who had the "pleasure" of hanging over a screaming flywheel with a timing light? :ROFLMAO:
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
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Messages
1,725
Congrats on the splash!!!!!!

You have an anode already installed?

SHSU
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Messages
135
Congrats on the splash!!!!!!

You have an anode already installed?

SHSU
Thank you! On the anode, I did a little research on them but can’t quite figure out how to install. This was a saltwater boat in California. I’m going to be boating in freshwater for the most part. Any info on anodes will be appreciated.
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 15, 2021
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I would have zero issue using something like alumiweld rods to fix the pin holes, or even one of the aluminum specific epoxies. And then gluevit and be done with it
Alumiweld rods do not do the trick. Heating up the hull just bubbles it out. No way to get the hull hot enough to apply alumiweld.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
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1,725
Anodes:
For freshwater, magnesium is the preferred metal
For Saltwater, zinc is the preferred metal

I just drilled a hole through my skeg and installed a circle anode there.

SHSU
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Messages
135
Anodes:
For freshwater, magnesium is the preferred metal
For Saltwater, zinc is the preferred metal

I just drilled a hole through my skeg and installed a circle anode there.

SHSU
Hmm, the motor itself has sacrificial anodes. Four anodes total I believe. Two close to the hull are the only ones that show wear.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
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Messages
1,725
Most times the anodes are on the outboard. As long as you got a good connection between the hull and the anode I don't see an issue. Just use a multimeter to check resistance between an anode and some exposed metal on the hull. As long as you have no resistance, should do the trick.

SHSU
 

87Starcraft

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Messages
135
I made a new floor out of a sign I acquired after a storm I worked. That’s my foot at the bottom right pic of sign.
 

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Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
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869
Thats a massive sign and a fine upgrade to replace a wood floor piece!!
 
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