1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

[Scott Danforth]

is your ignition system points or electronic ignition. 87 may still have points.

 

[ACon977]

is your ignition system points or electronic ignition. 87 may still have points.

ah, I see what you are saying now. I believe it is electronic. someone upgraded a few components on the engine before I got it. Below is an image of the coils. Im not sure if your more experienced eyes can tell just by looking at the case.

 

[Scott Danforth]

that is a GM automotive based HEI ignition cap and coil ..... only legal if it is truely a DUI marine unit (Davis Unified Ignition).

if so, the top coil cover and the marine compliance decal is missing. you may want to investigate that

http://performancedistributors.com/product/marine-dui-distributors/

that is a magnetic reluctor ring triggered electronic distributor.

so, next question, is the distributor installed correctly? or 180 degrees out?

 

[Timr71]

that is a GM automotive based HEI ignition cap and coil ..... only legal if it is truely a DUI marine unit (Davis Unified Ignition).

if so, the top coil cover and the marine compliance decal is missing. you may want to investigate that

http://performancedistributors.com/product/marine-dui-distributors/

that is a magnetic reluctor ring triggered electronic distributor.

so, next question, is the distributor installed correctly? or 180 degrees out?

Is it odd that there's a GM unit on a Ford? I'm just curious. I haven't upgraded mine to the HEI, but I intend to do so from the link above. Hopefully, this winter.

 

[ACon977]

that is a GM automotive based HEI ignition cap and coil ..... only legal if it is truely a DUI marine unit (Davis Unified Ignition).

if so, the top coil cover and the marine compliance decal is missing. you may want to investigate that

This is why I ask the experts. I am not sure if it is a DUI marine or not. Ill have to do some research, hopefully I dont have to replace it.

that is a magnetic reluctor ring triggered electronic distributor.

so, next question, is the distributor installed correctly? or 180 degrees out?

I'm not sure if it is installed correctly or not. From the looks of the engine, it was running before they incorrectly winterized it (or not at all). What would be a way for me to check? Isn't there a marking on the distributor that I need to line up?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Is it odd that there's a GM unit on a Ford? I'm just curious. I haven't upgraded mine to the HEI, but I intend to do so from the link above. Hopefully, this winter.

DUI has the GM derived distributor in a bunch of configurations...its his company, its what he does..... including Buick, Chrysler, etc. personally the cap is too big and heavy. I prefer the Mallory dizzy myself.

 

[ACon977]

From poking around briefly I think you are right Scott. I will confirm tonight by looking at the SN.

For my knowledge the legal reasoning is due to the single mold waterproofing of the DUI system?

 

[ACon977]

This is another candidate which could match what is on the boat.

Posting here for reference so I can check SN later.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Dixie-Racing...tb6QfU4lHsX8axgxYarlOpgNvYwUicD8aAjzQEALw_wcB

 

[Timr71]

The 7000 RPM model is $90 cheaper...wouldn't that be the right one to go with? I mean these engines aren't going to turn 7K...at least not for long.

 

[ACon977]

So, just double checking since I'm not entirely experienced at engine work.

firing order for a marine 351 W. 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8

rotation order counter clockwise? I got the new starter and am assuming its turning the engine the right way....

 

[ACon977]

Well, if what I know about this engine is true... we had someone who wasnt 100% accurate. Makes me a little nervous.
current firing order is 1,7,3,2,6,5,4,8

I swapped the 7 and 3 to have at least the correct sequence.

 

[ACon977]

Another thing to note. The belts on the front are going clockwise. Which is reverse from a standard engine? Does this need to match the distributor?

sorry for the rambling, I'm just confused.

 

[ACon977]

Ok last post then I'm going to work on the stringers. I checked getting a spark and 1-4 produced nothing. So either the plugs are 100% shot, or I'm not getting power to the distributor.

below us what hookup goes to the starter and distributor.
Going clockwise from the top right is where the cables go.
TR: The red cables are power from the battery, and hooked to the starter.
LR: Light pink below him is going through the tip block right side.
LL: yellow/black going to starter solenoid. This is what I energize to get the starter to turn over.
TL: white, goes to the transmission? Maybe F, N, R sensor?

top block is what I believe goes to the distributor and carb. Purple and orange.
purple is energized by light pink. And runs to the distributor.
orange runs to the carb on the side.

I've attached pictures to try and help...

 

[mr300z87]

I would recommend figuring out what system is on it then find the wiring diagram for the system you have. Also try posting in engine repair and maintenance forums. Lots of smart guys over there.

 

[ACon977]

I would recommend figuring out what system is on it then find the wiring diagram for the system you have. Also try posting in engine repair and maintenance forums. Lots of smart guys over there.

I suppose you're right. I have the generic manual but am not sure if it matches what is on the actual engine.

I'll have to start a thread on the engine forum, that's what it's for after all.

 

[ACon977]

Well since I got frustrated I went back to the restore, which I feel more comfortable with, and got the pylon mounted.

yesterday I had filled the holes as best I could with PB. Didn't go super well. So i decided to put the lags back in to push the resin I did get into the holes, back into the wood. I first coated with wax to inhibit the bond to the lags.

I took these out today and it worked great! Threads were still there and the bolts came out reasonably easy without cracking anything or spinning.

I cleaned up the holes and got the pylon back into place.

I then made up some thickened resin like Mad Props recommended (resin and resothix) and put it into syringes I had bought. Squeezing it into each hole before I put the lag bolts in to ensure more water proofness... or that's the hope. Overall, I'm much happier with this than my engine diagnostic capabilities.

 

[AShipShow]

Looks good to me! Guarantee they didn't take that level of detail in the factory and it lasted for 31 years

 

[mickyryan]

you will need to search deep and find out what was done to that 351, it might even have a 302 cam and in that case a 302 firing order, you might even get lucky and have a 421 windsor maybe one of the baddest mods ever done on a 351 windsor i always preferred the cleveland but eh to each their own

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Great work on rebuild!! Your glassing is top notch!! Wish I could help ya more with your engine woes. I like Ford V8s and trucks, but my boat has a GM.....shhh, don’t tell my Ford friends!!

 

[archbuilder]

Austin, sorry to hear about the engine issues. Just work your way through the trouble shooting one step at a time. When it gets down to it, the older ones are really fairly simple.......newer not so much lol!

On the cleats, you might check reviews on the retractable ones if you go that route. I have a friend that had some that rattled, drove him nuts. The Attwoods I have are the Neat Cleat, no issues at all with rattling. They also have provisions to hook a a drain line for water that enters from the top. You can pipe it to the bilge, but I think its unnecessary unless the bottom opens up to a cabin. Mine drip a bit when it rains hard, but not a big deal.....especially since the rest of the boat is soak! Just looked at the price on them, eek! Looks like they have gone up, I think I shelled out $50 each for them.....apparently we have had some inflation in the last 8 years lol!

Keep up the good work, enjoying your progress.