1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

[ACon977]

Hmm interesting indeed... yea my boat just doesn't have those indents in the cap to have them in the same location. Do you happen to have the dimensions/locations of where those are? I wouldn't mind matching an existing design.

 

[Timr71]

Sure, I'll get you some dimension for those locations.

 

[archbuilder]

You might also look at the retractable cleats, I used Attwood's on my Sleekcraft. It is nice to lower them when you aren't using them, and it gets a really nice look.

 

[ACon977]

Sure, I'll get you some dimension for those locations.

Thanks Tim, I appreciate it.

 

[ACon977]

You might also look at the retractable cleats, I used Attwood's on my Sleekcraft. It is nice to lower them when you aren't using them, and it gets a really nice look.

I think you and Tim are both recommending the same thing. They look very clean, I found some on iBoats for sale I may pick up.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/seachoi...cF5fwGRE16eTgcuRBac-njGqs-m3HQyhoCfRsQAvD_BwE

 

[Timr71]

I think you and Tim are both recommending the same thing. They look very clean, I found some on iBoats for sale I may pick up.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/seachoi...cF5fwGRE16eTgcuRBac-njGqs-m3HQyhoCfRsQAvD_BwE

I like the looks of those. They should work and look good top mounted on the rear of your deck. I'll also get you some pics of my install. I should be back to the boat on Saturday of this weekend.

 

[AShipShow]

Those pop up cleats are pretty cool, but I was hesitant to buy them for my resto because they all look like they either will allow water down into the hull or they will hold water if they are sealed... I decided to go with the flip-up style cleats as they don't have this issue but still are low profile when flipped down.

https://www.amazon.com/MxEol-Foldin...31236161&sr=8-10&keywords=flip+up+boat+cleats

 

[ACon977]

Those pop up cleats are pretty cool, but I was hesitant to buy them for my resto because they all look like they either will allow water down into the hull or they will hold water if they are sealed... I decided to go with the flip-up style cleats as they don't have this issue but still are low profile when flipped down.

https://www.amazon.com/MxEol-Foldin...31236161&sr=8-10&keywords=flip+up+boat+cleats

I agree with you on the feeling like they could let water in. But looking at the mounting locations, there isnt much of an issue. My cap sits over the hull and I would be mounting them to the top portion. I created a mini sketch of what I plan. The Red is my Hull, Blue is the cap, Yellow is the support wood Ill glass to the cap, and then Pink is the cleat.

If/when water gets into them they will just drain down the walls of the hull and end up on the floor. No different than the spray going over the sides of the boat or from bodies coming in/out.

 

[ACon977]

The fold up cleats look nice, but personally, I dont think they look as strong as the through cleats. And the pull up cleats will automatically go back down while the fold up, i believe, could stay standing.

Different strokes for different folks, I think Ill end up going with the pull up ones. But glad to have multiple options for someone reading through this thread for their own rebuild! :tea:

 

[Timr71]

MP - I've never seen those flip up cleats. Learn something new everyday. Look like a good option too.

 

[ACon977]

Hey Guys! Exciting news! Finally put the pedal down and got the last 2 layers of glass onto the port side stringers. This is super exciting since we are now one HUGE step closer to having the cap back onto the boat.

Im planning on looking at mounting the Pylon tonight and then look at the engine mounts to pre drill those holes.

Im very excited, pictures to come tonight/tomorrow!

 

[ACon977]

Hey all. I drilled the pylon holes In the stringer and am going to fill them. Would you recommend a PB, or create a cup and pour resin in?

 

[AShipShow]

If they are thru bolts then I would drill the holes oversized, fill with thickened resin and then re drill the correct size in the middle of the resin.

 

[ACon977]

For the pylon I think I'm going to do lag bolts, for the engine I'll do thru bolts.

I used thickened pb to try and fill the holes but the fibers didn't make it easy to get it in the horizontal hole. I got a bit in and then coated my lags in wax and threaded them in.

I don't think it's a good enough solution so I'll probably drill it back out and try with just thickened resin, then drill a smaller hole to mount to. Like we were originally discussing, and MP brought back up.

 

[ACon977]

Also, tried getting the motor to fire up now that I have it mounted to my dolly. It turned over fine but never even seemed like it wanted to go. Any thoughts? I have new plugs on order but they will be about a week.

I detached the water pump and was spraying starter fluid in the carb rather than hook up the fuel line. With my motorcycle this worked well enough to get it to catch a little but not run on it's own, which is fine for me right now.

 

[ACon977]

I know Ned L, boedekerj and Scott Danforth were helping a lot the last time I took a look at this old 351

 

[mickyryan]

check to make sure ya have spark it shoulda poppedfizzed fizled a lil with starter fluid

 

[Scott Danforth]

dont use ether....if it back fires, it usually sends a 4' fireball at your head.

as stated above, make sure you have spark

if its points, you have to file the points and gap them (they oxide over if it sits)
you mentioned new plugs, install them
hook up fuel properly

 

[ACon977]

check to make sure ya have spark it shoulda poppedfizzed fizled a lil with starter fluid

Good call Mickey and Scott, Ill be sure to check for spark tonight. I was a little tired and just curious if it would turn over with minimal effort.

 

[ACon977]

dont use ether....if it back fires, it usually sends a 4' fireball at your head.

Well that would be exciting, but not necessarily what Im looking for. I wasnt planning on dumping fuel or starter fluid into the carb, just a little to get it to catch.

if its points, you have to file the points and gap them (they oxide over if it sits)

Scott, what do you consider "if it points" ? I dont understand. I did look at the plugs when I first was inspecting the engine, 6 of them actually look pretty good, 2 of them have a bit of carbon buildup.