1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

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Timr71

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Well...you may not want to know all of this, but here goes. My ski (prior to the Theory) is an HO Vengeance ASX 65" probably about an '08 model. I'm not really sure. My cousin has always been my ski coach and he's old school...hasn't kept up with the ski changes through the years. He still skis an early 90s VTR and slays it.

Here's a list of things working against me:
1. I'm old
2. Weak core
3. Weak upper body
4. Only skied once (or twice) per season for years and years.

On my HO, the horizontal wing, the one that is adjustable at certain angles..not sure what that's called has been removed. So, prior to this Theory, I've never had that wing on the fin. That allows you to have the front foot low when coming in to the turns. The Theory with the wing on it orients the ski in a more nose up attitude and makes you stand on the back more. This is all relevant because my struggle is getting "stacked" to attack the wake from the turn. I tend to break at the waist, and I don't put enough weight back on my back foot...never have.

That's where I am. I'm going to ski the Theory again tonight. My weak side turn is weaker on this ski than my old HO. This ski decelerates and accelerates better. It's just going to take adjustments.
 

ACon977

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Well...you may not want to know all of this, but here goes. My ski (prior to the Theory) is an HO Vengeance ASX 65" probably about an '08 model. I'm not really sure. My cousin has always been my ski coach and he's old school...hasn't kept up with the ski changes through the years. He still skis an early 90s VTR and slays it.

Here's a list of things working against me:
1. I'm old
2. Weak core
3. Weak upper body
4. Only skied once (or twice) per season for years and years.

More information is always better than less. I had a friend who was skiing on a similar HO model. Pretty much all of the different brands ride differently, when I first switched to my Strada I was all over the place and skipping out on my turns. But as you get used to where the ski hooks up it will become more natural.

Regarding your list of things working against you, I feel you, but you can make up for strength with position. Your strongest way to use your body is by using your bones and ligaments, they will always be stronger than your muscles. Paying more attention to keeping your arms looser and focusing on using your back to take the pull from the boat and using your hips and legs adjust your position makes a big difference.


On my HO, the horizontal wing, the one that is adjustable at certain angles..not sure what that's called has been removed. So, prior to this Theory, I've never had that wing on the fin. That allows you to have the front foot low when coming in to the turns. The Theory with the wing on it orients the ski in a more nose up attitude and makes you stand on the back more.

I dont know what this little guy is called either. I have always left my ski at stock settings and its worked fine. Someone may have adjusted it before you got it. There are lots of articles and videos about people adjusting their fins up/down as well as the angle to get the desired ride in the water. Since yours feels like its riding with the nose up. I would recommend a SMALL (mm movements make a big difference) adjustment to the fin to get it tracking the tail of the ski higher, therefore the tip lower, and then see if you like that more.

People will spend all day changing their fin after every few turns to get it to feel like they want. I feel like a majority of the competition skiers are doing it as overkill, but when you first get on a ski I think it would be worth playing around with.

Its also a bit different jumping 2" longer, so it feels like the tip is pushing you back. You should be able to adjust your body forward by rotating your ankles, I try to get my front knee infront of my boot in my gliding position to prepare for the turn.

This is all relevant because my struggle is getting "stacked" to attack the wake from the turn. I tend to break at the waist, and I don't put enough weight back on my back foot...never have.

That's where I am. I'm going to ski the Theory again tonight. My weak side turn is weaker on this ski than my old HO. This ski decelerates and accelerates better. It's just going to take adjustments.

The struggle of getting stacked is the biggest one for everyone, and typically starts at/before your turn. One of the most interesting things about breaking at the waist is that you actually have too MUCH weight on your back foot, rather than not enough, even though it feels like it.

The few tips I will usually tell people to avoid breaking at the waist are the following:
  1. You need to get your hips forward. Don't concentrate only on pulling your shoulders back, this wont adjust your center of gravity and you'll end up just being too far backwards on the ski. Plus its exhausting to try and resist the boat like that. When you go around your turn, concentrate on moving your hips around and towards the boat.
  2. If you're letting go with one hand on your turns, be sure to keep the free hand low. I typically catch myself with my hand high and when you go to grab the handle you'll swing your arm down be bringing your shoulders around with it which instantly breaks you at the waist.
  3. With the hand you still have on the rope, try to extend it forward, up the lake, parallel with the boat's travel. This will keep your tension and, when your hips swing around, the handle will be right there to hook up for your pull across the wake.
  4. Finally, when you are going across the wake, you want to be square to the boat with your shoulders. Many, many people (especially those that break at the waist) will be turning towards the next turn and be 90* to the boat with their shoulders. This pulls all from one arm and you aren't as balanced on the ski. If you face up to the boat with your shoulders you will be in a better stacked position across the wake, better balance on the ski, and be using less muscle to hold the position (again, loose in the arms, let your back take the pull). The best way that I accomplish this is by looking at the pylon or passengers in the boat, once you're across the wake, you will let go with one hand and thats when you rotate your upper body.
Maybe that was way more than you wanted to know, but I really enjoy coaching skiing so whenever we are out I try to give people little tips and tricks. Its hard without seeing you ski, but those are some big tips that are pretty universal for everyone.
 
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kcassells

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I like Lobsters!
funny-picture-9979524485.jpg
 

kcassells

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Sorry, this past week of posts were a bit off track for a rebuild thread. I plan on getting work done tonight and tomorrow so that I can start posting boat related stuff!

All Good stuff!! C'mon just funnin. And I can tell you're into the sport!:watermelon: I couldn't stand up on any of those things for 2 secundos!!
 

ACon977

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All Good stuff!! C'mon just funnin. And I can tell you're into the sport!:watermelon: I couldn't stand up on any of those things for 2 secundos!!

haha definitely! Just dont want to be upsetting anyone by "wasting their time" reading waterski coaching when they want to be doing restore stuff! I have grown up on the lake and got competitive in college with it, but thankfully have moved onto having fun with it. To me, the passion for the sport is what fuels my rebuild drive. But I know most people restore a boat for fun, or to just cruise around on.

But, to each their own. I enjoy the dig KC!
 

Timr71

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Thanks. We'll be going out to ski another set here shortly. We'll see what I can put together. Current conditions here in Northeast Tn = HOT and pretty smooth glass like water with slight wind ripples here and there.
 

ACon977

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Thanks. We'll be going out to ski another set here shortly. We'll see what I can put together. Current conditions here in Northeast Tn = HOT and pretty smooth glass like water with slight wind ripples here and there.

Sounds like its the perfect excuse to stay in the water all day! Enjoy your holiday and feel free to let me know if any of those tips made a difference or not!
 

ACon977

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Look guys! I did something on the boat! Got the back of the stringers glassed in and I think it turned out pretty good. The corners were very difficult but by planning ahead and cutting the CSM and cloth to fit I was able to get everything into place.

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Timr71

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Looks great!

I skied last night's set much better. I made sure to focus on my shoulders going across the wake and looked at the pylon instead of out where the turn would be. Thanks! We'll head out and ski again this evening, probably.
 

ACon977

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Looks great!

I skied last night's set much better. I made sure to focus on my shoulders going across the wake and looked at the pylon instead of out where the turn would be. Thanks! We'll head out and ski again this evening, probably.

Thanks! and good deal! Im sure your biggest change was that you got on a bigger ski, so it will feel slower unless you adjust your weight forward a little in the wake crossing and turn.
 

ACon977

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Looks well done

Thanks Rem! It turned out pretty good IMO, I should have ground back the mating surface a little bit more, but not terribly worried about it. Itll be plenty strong as is.
 

ACon977

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Hey all, not much of an update, but I did end up buying some exhaust ports. I went with the newer looking design and hopefully they should be on their way here in the next week or so.


Next order of business is to start thinking about the wiring, cables, and hoses that run through the middle of the boat. They were initially just laying in the bottom of the hull and I am really not a fan of that. They were all dirty and getting roughed up by the movement of the boat. Not to mention the steering cable was rubbing a divett (* ? spelling) into the hull.

My plan was to do PVC tubing glassed to the stringers either suspended or on the corner of the stringer and Hull. Ive seen some people do drainage this way. And it would be more similar to a raceway in a manufacturing facility (which is my mentality). Any thoughts on this? Does it make sense to have the steering cable contained like this? or should I just leave it free floating?
 

AShipShow

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I don't see any issues with the steering cable being contained. My stingray had the cable running through a tube in the gunwales from factory.
 

ACon977

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I don't see any issues with the steering cable being contained. My stingray had the cable running through a tube in the gunwales from factory.

Solid, I didnt see an issue with it either, but hadn't seen it in person.
 

Timr71

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Messages
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Hey Austin,

I know you're not anywhere near the fit and finish stage of your project. But, if you're like me, you've constantly got a list running in your head of things to do, or nice to haves. Well I just completed a simple upgrade this weekend that is somewhat critical for guys like us who use these boats as they are intended.

And this is what it was: I installed two pop up cleats at the aft locations. Standard cleats were in those locations as as the ski rope would slide across the back of the boat it would always hang on one of the two cleats. Now, that is no longer and issue. The cleats are rounded and recessed into the deck until you pull them out at docking. Less than $100 spent, huge upside in the operation of the boat as a tow vehicle.

looking forward to skiing the RADAR again this weekend. Hope all is progressing with your build. I thought I took a pic of the cleats installed, but I didn't. I'll get one this weekend and update my build thread.
 

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 21, 2017
Messages
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Hey Austin,

I know you're not anywhere near the fit and finish stage of your project. But, if you're like me, you've constantly got a list running in your head of things to do, or nice to haves.

Tim you caught me! I feel like my mind is always thinking ahead to the next thing that I need to do, when I dont have enough time to do the next step in front of me. The glassing is fun, but having a long enough chunk of time available is tough with a busy schedule.

Well I just completed a simple upgrade this weekend that is somewhat critical for guys like us who use these boats as they are intended.

And this is what it was: I installed two pop up cleats at the aft locations. Standard cleats were in those locations as as the ski rope would slide across the back of the boat it would always hang on one of the two cleats. Now, that is no longer and issue. The cleats are rounded and recessed into the deck until you pull them out at docking. Less than $100 spent, huge upside in the operation of the boat as a tow vehicle.

You are very smart in thinking ahead for that! I have seen them all over on newer boats but didnt think to look on mine! Normal cleats are super frustrating when towing like I will be doing, the pop ups are definitely a necessity.

Thanks for the thought! Ill get some on order.
 

ACon977

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I was trying to remember what the cleats looked like in the boat, and couldnt remember any that stuck up. So I pulled up some old pictures from when we brought it home and there arent any rear cleats, only one spot for pole lights. on the rear starboard side. and two cleats in the front. Looks like Ill be drilling and installing ones in the back

Cleat Check.JPG
 

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Timr71

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Interesting. When I was at my cousin's house (basement / garage) he has a 1988 Tru-Trac II (for sale) and it has the same cleat location as my boat. My cousin said that at that time at Ski Centurion you could actually order a boat from the factory and mix and match decks with hulls.
 

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