1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

[Woodonglass]

Got a tablesaw?? If so cut a strip of wood with a bevel on it to fill the gap. Doesn't have to be perfect in fact a 1/4" gap on both sides would be preferred. The Use PB to do the rest. Once it's glassed it'll be fine.

 

[ACon977]

Got a tablesaw?? If so cut a strip of wood with a bevel on it to fill the gap. Doesn't have to be perfect in fact a 1/4" gap on both sides would be preferred. The Use PB to do the rest. Once it's glassed it'll be fine.

That I do! I wasnt sure what made sense to try and fill or whatnot. Thanks for the response!

 

[ACon977]

Also. Looking at the forecast.. I may be SOL on getting warm enough weather to continue glassing.

What kind of a space heater would you guys recommend? I was looking at a few from HD, Any thoughts? Looking to stay under $100.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Gl...Propane-Portable-Heater-RMC-FA60DGP/202223041

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-50K-80K-BTU-LP-Convection-Heater-RMC-LPC80DG/202895381

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProCom-...id-Propane-Forced-Air-Heater-PCFA40/204583485

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Optimus...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO_--M_K-d0CFUnfwAod3W8I_w

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HeatMax...opane-Gas-Portable-Heater-SRCH11011/203257603

 

[ACon977]

Also, since my garage is fairly large, I will probably have to build a little tent for the boat, just to keep the heat concentrated for efficiency. It's more of a gift than a curse to have an over sized 3 car garage.

 

[kcassells]

I've used this one successfully for a few years. HD has it.
I've gone from 20 deg. to 80 deg in @ 1/2 hr. They all have drawbacks buyt Iliked this one so much I bought another unit when the first fauled.
https://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Glo-RMC..._n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin:5995231011

 

[ACon977]

I've used this one successfully for a few years. HD has it.
I've gone from 20 deg. to 80 deg in @ 1/2 hr. They all have drawbacks buyt Iliked this one so much I bought another unit when the first fauled.

Thanks KC! Any reason for going to 125k btu? I know its more heat, but would the 60k do almost as much? or would I be shorting myself?

 

[ACon977]

stupid comment, of course it would be less heat, Im just saying, I dont need to have the garage at 80F, just 60F would be fine.

 

[kcassells]

Easypeazy to regulate the temps manualy with this unit. Just turn it off or down.The primary issue is get the hull up to temp. for work.
You will get a barage of others info I hope.

 

[ACon977]

Ok that would be great, thanks for the recommendation kcassells I have it sitting in my Amazon cart... I also get 5% back on amazon, so that makes for a much better option than HD.

Where do you have this setup? Under the hull blowing along the floor? Or just blowing into empty space and letting the whole garage warm up together?

 

[oldrem]

Bought one very similar to that on close out at Menards last winter when I was rebuilding the outboard in the garage. In about 15 minutes I had to turn it off and work in short sleeves.

 

[kcassells]

I lay it in the cuddy and let the heat blow. I leave the flaps on the end loose so the air moves with the heat and no carbon monoxide stuff. Keep one of those close to you and a temp gage. Oh yea always keep an extinuisher handy...why cause you gonna cruise thru this winter crap....
So it blows front to back. There are some real sea terms.

 

[AShipShow]

you might want to investigate infrared heaters as well. They work by heating up objects through infrared radiation rather than heating the air. If you have a really large space, it may work more effectively as long as what you are trying to heat is line of sight to the heater.

That being said, I dunno if I would trust it to maintain the fiberglass at the proper temperature, I'd personally feel better knowing the hull AND air temperature where appropriate.

 

[ACon977]

Bought one very similar to that on close out at Menards last winter when I was rebuilding the outboard in the garage. In about 15 minutes I had to turn it off and work in short sleeves.

This is great news! I ended up buying one via amazon and it should be at the house early next week. I certainly dont need to be sweating while working on the boat, I got plenty of that in the Tyvek when I was grinding. but being warm and comfortable would be nice.

 

[ACon977]

I lay it in the cuddy and let the heat blow. I leave the flaps on the end loose so the air moves with the heat and no carbon monoxide stuff. Keep one of those close to you and a temp gage. Oh yea always keep an extinuisher handy...why cause you gonna cruise thru this winter crap....
So it blows front to back. There are some real sea terms.

Definitely something that makes me nervous about putting it IN the boat is the carbon monoxide, and heating up one portion of the boat too much. When I get it I'll have to play around with what makes the most sense and feels the safest.

 

[ACon977]

you might want to investigate infrared heaters as well. They work by heating up objects through infrared radiation rather than heating the air. If you have a really large space, it may work more effectively as long as what you are trying to heat is line of sight to the heater.

Hmm hadnt looked into them at all, could be interesting, and yes, the large space could be tough to heat up. I suppose I can start with this heater and maybe just put the infrared in the back if It takes too long to warm up.

That being said, I dunno if I would trust it to maintain the fiberglass at the proper temperature, I'd personally feel better knowing the hull AND air temperature where appropriate.

This is a good point... the last thing I need is to have things de-laminating on me. Hopefully I can get my glassing done before it gets too cold, and then just do electrical and finishing touches when its cold, then it only hurts the hands and fingers :laugh: not the project.

 

[kcassells]

infrared blows. Does not heat airspace. Oh yea forgot I use eeeeepoxxxy and I am working in large area surfaces.
Not to sound STUPID, you can also hang it of fthe transom area. Always keep fresh air in the mix.
Infrared heat....for ths application.? I'm confused. Maybe if I used it to heat up the whole garage that I don't have.

 

[ACon977]

Well wouldnt the propane heater you recommended technically blow, and the Infrared heater would radiate? :bounce:

Just keeping it fun.

but yea, I can imagine a Infrared being useful in a spot application, but maybe not if I am going to be glassing the entire floor.

 

[kcassells]

Hmmmm Then the infrared would be ok cause now the heat is blowing, blown, blowned. Maybe radiant heat would do the job. Wrap your boat in pex like a yoyo and tie into your hot water heater. Add a shower head. :watermelon:

 

[ACon977]

Hmmmm Then the infrared would be ok cause now the heat is blowing, blown, blowned. Maybe radiant heat would do the job. Wrap your boat in pex like a yoyo and tie into your hot water heater. Add a shower head. :watermelon:

And now its a hot tub instead of a boat! Maybe not an upgrade... but could be fun!

 

[archbuilder]

I have used the forced air ones a lot before I put an overhead unit heater in. I would heat things up, layup the glass, let if fire off and open the doors afterwords to vent out all the glass fumes. I would then repeat, those put off a lot of heat quickly. I liked venting things out so that I could work without a respirator between layups....cutting out glass, getting things ready. I also used some halogen work lights here and there to get the glass to fire off. The key is to make sure your resin and the boat hull are nice and warm.

By the way if the heater is getting enough oxygen, the byproducts of running it are carbon dioxide and water. You only get carbon monoxide when it is burning too rich. One other reason I liked to vent things, get rid of some of the humidity.

I upgraded to one of these and love it, vents outside, and turns on and off via a thermostat. I'm putting another one in my other shop this fall.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200577751_200577751