1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

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Watermann

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Do you have enough room for the bunk supports brackets to move them outside the chine?

Looks like it will be tight moving them out, at least in the pic.

fetch
 

SHSU

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Do you have enough room for the bunk supports brackets to move them outside the chine?

Looks like it will be tight moving them out, at least in the pic.


I was able to make it fit. With the admirals help everything leveled out on the bunks The center keel supports, not so much.... I will post pics of the changes I made later.

On another note, excited, as with the finish of the trailer that means I finally get to move on to the BOAT!!!!!

:watermelon::watermelon::watermelon::watermelon::watermelon::watermelon:

I have already contacted someone and have time scheduled for next weekend to do soda blasting. The Admiral and I will have a completely clean Hull to re-rivet and seal.

Question:
I am planning on using 5200 on all the rivets we replace (~1200), then I will use Gulvit or Coatit (haven't decided yet). What do ya'll think about adding another layer of 5200 over the rivets before the Gulvit/Coatit?

Also, for noise reduction I have heard of people using truck bed spray liner. What are ya'lls opinions? It would also give an extra layer to help prevent any corrosion.

As always thanks in advance
 
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Watermann

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Adding more is not always the best idea, in fact more can cause troubles. More means more chances for lack of adhesion and water being trapped between a layer of sealer and the aluminum which will sooner or later cause corrosion. Gluvit epoxy over 5200 is not a good idea. 5200 is best used as a sealer/adhesive sandwiched between 2 objects not blobbed on over the top. Multiple layers of these products that all expand and contract at a different rate is a recipe for failure.

The above goes for the using a bed liner on the aluminum over the gluvit and 5200, way too many things to go wrong. Noise from a boat? To me, I can't think of any sound a boat makes that is noise. If your hearing is so sensitive that rigid foam board and plywood doesn't dampen sound transfer to where you need a little thin layer of bed liner then I suggest ear plugs. Especially since the outboard motor will make so much more "noise" than the wonderful sound of water rushing under your boat.
 

SHSU

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Adding more is not always the best idea, in fact more can cause troubles. More means more chances for lack of adhesion and water being trapped between a layer of sealer and the aluminum which will sooner or later cause corrosion. Gluvit epoxy over 5200 is not a good idea. 5200 is best used as a sealer/adhesive sandwiched between 2 objects not blobbed on over the top. Multiple layers of these products that all expand and contract at a different rate is a recipe for failure.

The above goes for the using a bed liner on the aluminum over the gluvit and 5200, way too many things to go wrong. Noise from a boat? To me, I can't think of any sound a boat makes that is noise. If your hearing is so sensitive that rigid foam board and plywood doesn't dampen sound transfer to where you need a little thin layer of bed liner then I suggest ear plugs. Especially since the outboard motor will make so much more "noise" than the wonderful sound of water rushing under your boat.

Thanks WM and RJ.

So I will stick with just 5200 when I first insert the rivets being bucked then gulvit/coat it over the internal side of the rivet. No to the truck bed liner. As for the sensitive hearing, I do not, just curious as to if there really is a difference if it was done.

You mentioned foam board, so from what I have read the predominant feeling is toward foam board. Most don't like the idea of using pour in foam. I was mulling over using pour foam but pouring it into a twin size plastic storage bag I am guessing people still feel that foam board is still better.

Ya'll have any advice on that discussion?
 

SHSU

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As promised below are the pictures from what we got finished this weekend

New positions of bunks
DSC03448.JPGDSC03449.JPG

Extended Bunks to completely support Transom
DSC03450.JPG

Side view of new bunk placements
DSC03451.JPG

Added additional keel support under Bow
DSC03452.JPG

Leveling Bling on Tow Bar
DSC03456.JPG

Bling Installed
DSC03457.JPG
 

Watermann

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You're right pour in foam is not the preferred method of adding flotation. The cost and difficulty along with the blocking of water flow made me steer clear.

Bunks look good to me, should provide ample support. Only issue you may have with the bunks protruding out is they could be in the way of the stern eye and tie down straps to the trailer.
 

SHSU

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You're right pour in foam is not the preferred method of adding flotation. The cost and difficulty along with the blocking of water flow made me steer clear.

Bunks look good to me, should provide ample support. Only issue you may have with the bunks protruding out is they could be in the way of the stern eye and tie down straps to the trailer.


Thanks WM

I figured that would be the recommendation, but never know unless you ask. I can source the pink foam from HD locally so not an issue to pick up. More worried about fitting in enough in case of emergency and preventing her from going to the bottom.

As for the bunks, I saw that once i finally got everything level. Figured, i would off set the hooks on the trailers as shown in my poor attempt at drawing below. I figure it will be sufficient. If not please let me know so I can rethink my plans

As always thanks in advance

Stern Tie Down.jpg
 

Frey0357

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Trailer looks nice, goo dwork on the "Bling"!

Offsetting the hooks should work as long as when you crank it down at the boat launch you don't over tighten one side before tightening the other. Probably not much of a convern tho. Looks good so far....

Frey
 

Watermann

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Yeah those stern straps don't have to be super tight, just snug that'll work fine.

I have the boat buckles on my SS and Chief trailers, they are the absolute most wonderful invention ever made for a boat trailer. The price of the SS models are a bit spendy but if you only have to purchase them once then it's worth it.


 

SHSU

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Yeah those stern straps don't have to be super tight, just snug that'll work fine.

I have the boat buckles on my SS and Chief trailers, they are the absolute most wonderful invention ever made for a boat trailer. The price of the SS models are a bit spendy but if you only have to purchase them once then it's worth it.




I would have loved to use those; however, my trailer is made out of C shaped steel with the opening facing the stern.... So I would have to create some form of bracket if I wanted to use those. I am open to suggestions if anyone has a good recommendation.
 

Watermann

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I had to fabricate a bracket for both my boats in order to use the buckles.
 

SHSU

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I had to fabricate a bracket for both my boats in order to use the buckles.


WM,
Can you shoot me a picture of your bracket and how you attached it to your frame? Also how the strap attaches to the bracket, if possible.
 

SHSU

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So as usual sitting here and dreaming and thinking about next steps for my project. Couple questions on Gulvit and Coatit:

I know most people use Gulvit but I have also heard some say they prefer Coatit, which is preferred?
Can I thicken Gulvit/Coatit with flour or something to make it thicker/less runny for the second coat?
For prep, figuring using a wire wheel brush and acetone on all areas getting a coat prior to applying, please confirm if I should do anything else.

As always, thanks in advance
 

SHSU

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flour is an organic material


Fair point. Only mentioned it as I see people saying they using it with epoxy. With that being said, the question I should ask is:

Can you thicken Gulvit/Coatit or should I use it in natural form?
 

Watermann

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I used a piece of angle iron to attach the boat buckle to the back of the trailer frame tube. There's 3 holes I drilled before sanding and priming and painting the iron. One hole for the buckle to attach, 1 for the iron to attach to the tube and the other is a drain hole you can see in the first pic.

IMAG2987.jpg


IMAG2988.jpg
 

redneck joe

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nice. I should have done that; mine are on at a funny angle, plus I have to wrap them up the side as I cannot get to the eye hooks due to my tabs
 

redneck joe

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Fair point. Only mentioned it as I see people saying they using it with epoxy. With that being said, the question I should ask is:

Can you thicken Gulvit/Coatit or should I use it in natural form?



just saw this on another thread fomr woononglass

Just remember this is a Boat and not a car. The fiberglass and filler products should be for a MARINE environment. Cars don't spend that much time submerged in water so the products can be designed differently. Highly recommend you use Marine rated products. To thicken your epoxy you can use just about anything. Wood Dust from your sander, Baby Powder etc... Epoxy has much better water resistance so using non hygroscopic materials is not as important.
 

SHSU

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I used a piece of angle iron to attach the boat buckle to the back of the trailer frame tube. There's 3 holes I drilled before sanding and priming and painting the iron. One hole for the buckle to attach, 1 for the iron to attach to the tube and the other is a drain hole you can see in the first pic.

Those look NICE!!! That gives me some ideas about what I can/should do for mine. You pick up those SS buckles for here on iBoats?
 
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