1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

[SHSU]

I KNOW this is gunna sound weird but...Buy some Cheap Ketchup and put a REALLY thick coat of it on the rusted metal. Leave it overnight and then wash it off and wire brush the metal. I think you'll be amazed at the results.

Now that is one i have not heard before and yes it does sound weird. I am going to try it just because!!!! Everything is better with Ketchup!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Ketchup is a Mild acid. (due to the Vinegar) If you put dull Pennys in it and wait for 20 minutes and then wash em off...They'll look like NEW penneys. The acidic nature of it will eat into the rust and make it much easier to remove to good clean metal. My Uncle taught me this MANY years ago!!! You can also just use white vinegar in a spray bottle but the kethcup "Paste" keeps it in place.

 

[SHSU]

Got some work done last night on the trailer. Know this is no the most exciting stuff but figured everyone likes pictures so here ya go (Sorry some are blurry, got to work on my camera technique). Jacked it up and put it on jacks.



While removing everything I sheared a couple rusted U bolts and Grade 5 bolts. This trailer was definitely in need of a redo.

Sheared U bolt on Leaf Springs (You can see how bad the corrosion was on in)



Sheared Grade 5 Bolts


As you can see the leaf springs were shot. You can't really see it in this picture, but some of the lower leaf springs are missing. Definitely time for some new ones



Also started with a wire brush on the bad rust spots on my angle grinder and decided I needed to step up from the wire wheel to an actual grinding wheel. See initial results



Then I followed Woods direction and used some Ketchup. The admiral thought I was crazy. LOL Tried to explain about the vinegar and she got it, but still thought it was weird. Almost added some Mustard for color but decided not to. Will wash it off tonight and take some more pictures before i attack it again with the angle grinder. Thanks Woods!!!!



So that is where I stand for now. Will try and get some more done tonight and take pics for ya'll. Still got to add some plastic to the garage so I can shoot paint. Aiming to shoot color by this weekend, but got to do some arranging in the garage to make some room so I can shoot everything at the same time and let it sit and dry.

Following Woods suggesting in his thread regarding paint and got some Valspar Tractor Paint with hardener. Using their galvanized primer as well. Turned out decent on the Evinrude I redid, but will thin a little more when i shoot the trailer. By the time I get to the boat I should have it dialed in.

 

[Watermann]

Been there with those stubborn rusted out bolts, I went around and sprayed everything with PB and then hit them with my rattle gun. Most spin off but there were some that snapped under the pressure.

 

[redneck joe]

i don't fight; cut off and use new.

 

[SHSU]

Thanks WM and RJ. I figured I would use knew but didn't realize just how much of a bugger it would be to get some of the old ones off. Hell, I had to use a 3/4 pipe to give me some extra leverage to pop some of those loose. The ones I could get my angle grinder to I did, but many I just got to cuss and bang my knuckles. The Admiral came out a couples times to check on me when she heard my going off after slamming my knuckles into something or nailing my hand with the sledge/hammer.

Question though, the U bolts I have are galvanized but for some of the additional bolts I need to get I am wondering if I should get them in stainless. What is the consensus on this? Same metals or stainless worth the extra buck?

 

[Watermann]

No don't use SS, I don't on my trailers, you need steel in grade 5 except the hanger bolts for the leafs they should be grade 8.

 

[SHSU]

Thanks WM, that is what I needed to know. Will pick up bolts accordingly.

 

[redneck joe]

Agreed

 

[SHSU]

I have been wire brushing and cleaning everything on the trailer in preparation for spraying this weekend. Thinking about my spraying schedule, what are ya'lls opinions on wet on wet painting and how many layers can I do in a day? Can I shoot 2 - 3 coats of primer and then 3 - 4 coats of paint with a couple hours between each coat? Usually shoot lacquer and as such wait time is about 15 - 20 minutes. Don't want to wait 24 hours between coats.... Need to get this one done so I can get the boat out of my parents garage. Will be using Valspar Tractor paint with the hardener.

As always thanks in advance

 

[Watermann]

With the hardener it will set quicker for sure but temps are what's most important this time of year. I shoot SE primer, regular primer both 1 coat and then 2 top coats all in one day to avoid sanding cured primer or paint. That's all I do and don't see the need to have more than 2 good coats of paint with 1 primer coat that covers.

 

[SHSU]

With the hardener it will set quicker for sure but temps are what's most important this time of year. I shoot SE primer, regular primer both 1 coat and then 2 top coats all in one day to avoid sanding cured primer or paint. That's all I do and don't see the need to have more than 2 good coats of paint with 1 primer coat that covers.

Thanks WM

Here in Houston we have 80 degree temps with 70% humidity (The killer). Do you think I need SE primer or will the valspar galvanized primer be fine?

Thanks

 

[Watermann]

I don't know about the valspar primer, haven't used it or know of any builds where they did. Do you have a link to it that describes their primer.

 

[redneck joe]

The directions usually will tell you - and most times I've seen that it needs to be dry tot he touch on a quick respray, like within an hour - or cured for 12-18. It's when you try to do one in four something happens I'm betting it's the solvents. In an hour or so the paint is dry yest still the new layer can bond solvently (I'm sure that is not a real word) to the previous coat, or it need to wait past the 'tweener stage where the new solvents might do bad things to the almost but not quite cured.

Just me thinking on it after huffing a few cans in my day whilst painting....

 

[SHSU]

I don't know about the Valspar primer, haven't used it or know of any builds where they did. Do you have a link to it that describes their primer.

Here is the link i found when I was first deciding on paints. Figured since it says that no SE primer is needed it would be great. Just didn't know if anyone had ever used both just because the SE possibly gave a better adhesion. You will notice it doesnt say anything about wet on wet painting just waiting 24 hours. Reading other forums people mention they did wet on wet. Just didn't know if we had a paint expert that could explain if there would really be any harm by going wet on wet. Prep work I know is the most important part so been spending the last week grinding and degreasing the entire rig. Will post pics shortly.

http://www.valsparpaint.com/export/...Valspar_Anti-Rust_Galvanized_Metal_Primer.pdf

Thanks again

 

[Watermann]

They say it's for aluminum and all. Is it worth a try to use something new when it comes to paint? Of course it's your choice. Proper adhesion is the main thought for painting AL, yeah it can be tough alright. The bare surface to me is the key, stripped of all paint and the AL sanded, wiped down with cleaning vinegar and rinsed of all contaminants.

Not sure you'll find anyone around here that claims to be an expert, shoot half the guys are outside picking bugs out of their paint. :lol:

I've learned a lot painting 3 boats but they are far from pro work although the paint is solid and looks good enough for me.

 

[SHSU]

Ok, been working all week after dropping the boat off in my parents garage. Putting a couple hours every night trying to tear the trailer down and prep for paint. Following Wood's suggestion I used ketchup on the bad rust spots. IT WORKS!!!! THANKS WOODS

Day one with Ketchup


Day 2 (Dry ketchup.... familiar site for those with kids....)


Day three and washing and wire brushing of part. Still need to do a little more grinding on it and a couple parts, but really happy with the way it turned out


Pic of Fulton jack showing how tarnished/greasy it was. You can see what a little cleaning did for it



Garage converted to allow painting (Have a true HVLP system now so don't have over spray like when I used to use HF guns)



Close up of parts that are hanging to be painted



Another one


Alright all,
So you can see my plans and how I have been setting everything up. Please let me know if there are any things I am overlooking or have a suggestion on how to improve something. Plan to shoot primer/paint all day Saturday (Would have started tonight but Admiral wants a date night. Can't argue with that one ).

As always thanks in advance for checking in and any suggestion

 

[SHSU]

Not sure you'll find anyone around here that claims to be an expert, shoot half the guys are outside picking bugs out of their paint. :lol:

:laugh: That is a good one. Hoping that wont be me

Guess since I already have the primer I will continue down that path. If it doesn't work out at least the guys will have something to refer to later on WHAT NOT TO USE!!!!! :facepalm: Truthfully more worried about missing some grease than adhesion of primer vs SE. With the amount of wire wheeling I am doing and following ya'lls suggestions about degreasing/vinegar bath/acetone prior to spraying everything should be ready. If the primer doesn't hold in spots its grease, but if the whole trailers just falls apart, then we know its the Primer. Or it could be the Indian.... But I am a GUY so its always the arrows fault, never the Indian!!!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

I wouldn't recommend using the Aluminum Primer. I'd use SE primer and then Rustoleums Clean Metal Primer. I KNOW that works on Tin Cans!!! As for your schedule, I'd recommend 1 hour between primer coats and 4 hours between color coats. With High humidity I'd recommend Shooting REAL early in the Mornings and Hope the Humidity is down a bit. I'd also us Mineral Spirits for your thinner. The Majic Reducer would be ok too!!! Majic PRIMER is NOT good stuff. Many members including me, have had lots of issues with it. Just not reliable stuff. The Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer IS good stuff and no problems have been reported.

 

[SHSU]

I wouldn't recommend using the Aluminum Primer. I'd use SE primer and then Rustoleums Clean Metal Primer. I KNOW that works on Tin Cans!!! As for your schedule, I'd recommend 1 hour between primer coats and 4 hours between color coats. With High humidity I'd recommend Shooting REAL early in the Mornings and Hope the Humidity is down a bit. I'd also us Mineral Spirits for your thinner. The Majic Reducer would be ok too!!! Majic PRIMER is NOT good stuff. Many members including me, have had lots of issues with it. Just not reliable stuff. The Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer IS good stuff and no problems have been reported.

Thanks Wood. I guess I will be going shopping. Humidity is dropping so think I can get away with it. Has anyone added hardener to the primer?