1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

[SHSU]

Howdy All,
Been awhile since I posted anything. Been a busy last couple of months.

Got the splashwell from my welder and dry fitted into the boat. Took a couple times for my welder and I to get it to fit right. Didn't account for some slant in the floor or the transom. Nothing is ever perfectly square. LOL


Did final placement of the bilge pump and livewell pumps. Still have to wire it in, but everything has been placed


Here is a close up of the bilge pump. I decided to secure it via a blind rivet with Velcro. That will allow for easy adjustments and fixes in future


Hear is the splashwell with the livewell holes cut. I made the mistake of not cutting the holes first.... :facepalm: So I have a couple scratches that will need to be touched up.


Next steps will be to do final wiring in the bilge area before putting in the splashwell. Then the splashwell will be installed.

Also as a lesson learned, don't use the self adhesive to hold up multiple wires. After first falling off under weight, I secured it with JB Weld. That didn't hold either (Plastic pulled away from self adhesive that was glued with JB Weld). Going to add some velcro straps that are secured via blind rivets. Should have done that in the first place

Till Next Time

 

[Watermann]

OH yeah that SW looks great, nice layout in the bilge is always a huge plus when or if a guy needs to get in there down the road.

I used the zip ties that have the hole for mounting them for a bunch of my wiring, the SS had vinyl coated AL straps riveted under the gunnels for the wiring so I reused them.

 

[66Holiday924]

I also used the zip ties with mounts. The mounts call for a number 8 screw, I used rivets instead. I ran some pretty heavy duty battery cable on my boat, Instead of fighting the sag, I ran it where you'll never see it. I ran it under the side compartment and fastened it to the bottom side with the mounted zip ties. I'm thinking the battery cable might swing around a little bit and smack the side of my boat while it's moving, so I'm going to go back and put foam padding that they use in plumbing to stop that.

 

[SHSU]

Well after ya'lls comments on the mounts, I decided that was the best way to go. I created some and added them along the gunwales (5 in total). 5200 and solid rivets through them to keep them in place

 

[SHSU]

Updating missing photo

 

[MTboatguy]

Updating missing photo

Is that wiring? It almost looks like conduit.

 

[SHSU]

Is that wiring? It almost looks like conduit.

Ya, I kind of went overboard, each one is two wire 14 gauge marine tinted wire. Decided that I didn't want a single point of failure that would stop everything on the boat if I did a single negative.

 

[FIGMO]

I really like the idea of installing hangers under the gunnel to support the wiring. Very clever!

 

[Watermann]

SC figured that wire hanger need in the V5 models, soft AL coated with plastic blind riveted to the sides of the hull under the gunnels on both sides.

 

[classiccat]

SC figured that wire hanger need in the V5 models, soft AL coated with plastic blind riveted to the sides of the hull under the gunnels on both sides.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/ffnbqw.bn.files.1drv.com\/y4mESE9p_tle045xW47Fnpct8UOuRBP01eOGY-KrmSYk5-tkZHtCSqW3ifxEaA67v3zpgGZNBRZ6W7AtZjI16_vTJ9VFnip8-_e-bPxOpol8Ya37jiszEfI3BMlAxWZu_Te4KenFVDMqGk7kvPhl_XRL25rqiL2ehHxXJl1b1LAit2_T-axUh2q-0urK2Cz4j4I-aF4F_MagwbIQbOJmBWmQQ?width=1024&height=577&cropmode=none"**[/IMG2]

What's NOT awesome about the V5 Hull!?! :madgrin:

 

[FIGMO]

SC figured that wire hanger need in the V5 models, soft AL coated with plastic blind riveted to the sides of the hull under the gunnels on both sides.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/ffnbqw.bn.files.1drv.com\/y4mESE9p_tle045xW47Fnpct8UOuRBP01eOGY-KrmSYk5-tkZHtCSqW3ifxEaA67v3zpgGZNBRZ6W7AtZjI16_vTJ9VFnip8-_e-bPxOpol8Ya37jiszEfI3BMlAxWZu_Te4KenFVDMqGk7kvPhl_XRL25rqiL2ehHxXJl1b1LAit2_T-axUh2q-0urK2Cz4j4I-aF4F_MagwbIQbOJmBWmQQ?width=1024&height=577&cropmode=none"**[/IMG2]

Its funny, they came up with a good solution to deal with the wiring requirements after the fact, but I think that SHSU hit the nail on the head with his idea. Had I pulled my gunnels, I would hoped that I would have had his good sense to come up with that solution. I really do like how he over came the problem of supporting the wiring under the gunnels. As I said before, very clever!

 

[66Holiday924]

I am a fan of the hangers too! :tennis:

 

[Watermann]

That boat cable looks like a bundle of romex house wire, that's a whole lot of wire runs

 

[SHSU]

That boat cable looks like a bundle of romex house wire, that's a whole lot of wire runs

Yep, its 14 guage 2 wire marine tinted wire. I didn't want entire sections to go out because of a short on a single negative or positive wire daisy chained together.

This is practice for the next rebuild I do. Will see if it was worth it or just way overkill

 

[SHSU]

Howdy All,
Its been awhile, got burned out and took a break for a couple months. Starting to get back into the swing of things. See updates below from the last couple of weeks:

Completed the wiring in my Bilge. Two live well pumps, bilge pump, and an auto switch that will be hot wired to the starter as a backup. Picture of my wire management. Left plenty of slack for future repairs if needed.



Installed the splashwell. You will notice that I predrilled all of the holes for the livewells. Wanted to limit the amount of shavings I would be removing later. 5200 was liberally applied to L brackets before it was drawn tight against the transom. Also note, the Fasco White has yellowed even though the boat hasn't been outside. The Fasco Dark Blue still looks good on the hull, but you really only notice the white yellow when compared against something that is really white. Will have to do something in the splashwell....



I premeasured the distance for this ladder, so the bolts that run into the splashwell support also were used to secure the ladder. Added some HDPE as a backer to create a space since the ladder bracket has a lip



Inside of the transom showing the L bracket that the bolts go through and the extra "washers" I made to distribute the weight. All liberally covered with 5200.



Front of splashwell was screwed into the deck. Thought about doing Blind rivets but opted against it since they would have been popped against the wood. Decided that if the screws do give out over time I can retap and don't have a potential unsealed point underneath.



Installed the side panels. Used large flange rivets with 5200. Also riveted it to the splashwell as well. Made another "washer" for the rivet to pop against.



Installed the motorwell drains. Had to order an extra one as I broke one while trying to install it. Couldn't get the plastic tubes to line up and eventually split the outer flange from banging on it.... You can also see the bolts that go through to secure the splashwell and a stern saver I installed for the fish finder




Covered the front seating area with Nautolex. I used stainless steel staples and a bead of 5200. Also some contact cement. The 3M 80 spray adhesive wasn't doing a great job of holding long term. The other stuff I got from the big box store seems to be working much better. Time will tell.

You will note that I had two inside corners. I watched a lot of videos and read multiple sites trying to figure out the best way to install. I practiced on some scrap I had and below method was what I thought looked the best. Just adding a piece underneath from the get go and then splitting the top layer. I used 5200 to make sure it stayed watertight.



Did a side project on the boat for the livewell. The drains I got for the livewell measured just under an inch. Nobody makes a drain tube for them that I could find, so I improvised. Drilled a 1 inch hole with my hole saw in a piece of scrap wood. Fit a 3/4 pvc pipe (with electrical tape to try and keep it centered) through it and then redrilled using the hole as a guide to only cut off some of the exterior to the 3/4 pipe. Not exactly centered, but it works and fits nice and snug. If I had a lathe I could make it really pretty.




I added the strapping down for the three battery boxes. Two under the front seating area and one back at the splashwell. I originally got Size 27 boxes, but when I tried to install through the access holes I made, the fuel fill was in the way. So i changed to Size 24 which work just fine. I practiced installing the boxes and doing the straps with the seat in place. Its a pain in the a**, but it will keep them out of the way and more weight upfront. Also, I ran wiring and lights at the same time for charging and running the two front batteries in parallel.



Installed the front bench area with rivets and 5200. The large flange rivets (inside area) were installed every 7 inches and the normal rivets in the back were every 5 inches. Front bow section in very rigid now!



I decided I needed to add some additional backing under my front consoles. Need more wood then 1/2 to secure the battery charger and electrical boards into. I cut up and routed two pieces of 3/4 and epoxied them. I will be securing them with screws through the front of the console. As before, used JB weld and JB waterweld to seal up holes before sanding and epoxying. I also forgot to account for the horn hole I have on one of the consoles, so I will have to cut up one of the pieces to make room and epoxy again.



Decided the screws that I would secure the backer with would be stainless steel snap headed screws. That way, the admiral can make a cushion for people to lean against that ride up front. Wasn't entirely confident that the snaps/screws were both stainless steel. So did a quick test with salt and hydrogen peroxide. You can see the results of a brief time of exposure for a galvanized nail and a kreg screw vs the stainless steal snap. Feel much better about it.




So that is the latest updates for me. Until next time....

 

[Watermann]

Lots going on and happening there, no pics came through on my end though.

 

[oldrem]

Same here - can't view any of the pics

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Dunno if it's just my browser, but it doesn't look like your pics uploaded correctly. Can't wait to see your progress!

 

[SHSU]

Ok, let me try this again.


Howdy All,
Its been awhile, got burned out and took a break for a couple months. Starting to get back into the swing of things. See updates below from the last couple of weeks:

Completed the wiring in my Bilge. Two live well pumps, bilge pump, and an auto switch that will be hot wired to the starter as a backup. Picture of my wire management. Left plenty of slack for future repairs if needed.

​

​

​

​

Installed the splashwell. You will notice that I predrilled all of the holes for the livewells. Wanted to limit the amount of shavings I would be removing later. 5200 was liberally applied to L brackets before it was drawn tight against the transom. Also note, the Fasco White has yellowed even though the boat hasn't been outside. The Fasco Dark Blue still looks good on the hull, but you really only notice the white yellow when compared against something that is really white. Will have to do something in the splashwell....

​

​

I premeasured the distance for this ladder, so the bolts that run into the splashwell support also were used to secure the ladder. Added some HDPE as a backer to create a space since the ladder bracket has a lip

​

​

Inside of the transom showing the L bracket that the bolts go through and the extra "washers" I made to distribute the weight. All liberally covered with 5200.

​

​

Front of splashwell was screwed into the deck. Thought about doing Blind rivets but opted against it since they would have been popped against the wood. Decided that if the screws do give out over time I can retap and don't have a potential unsealed point underneath.

​

​

Installed the side panels. Used large flange rivets with 5200. Also riveted it to the splashwell as well. Made another "washer" for the rivet to pop against.

​

​

​

​

​

​

Installed the motorwell drains. Had to order an extra one as I broke one while trying to install it. Couldn't get the plastic tubes to line up and eventually split the outer flange from banging on it.... You can also see the bolts that go through to secure the splashwell and a stern saver I installed for the fish finder

​

​

​

 

[SHSU]

Part 2


Covered the front seating area with Nautolex. I used stainless steel staples and a bead of 5200. Also some contact cement. The 3M 80 spray adhesive wasn't doing a great job of holding long term. The other stuff I got from the big box store seems to be working much better. Time will tell.

​

​

You will note that I had two inside corners. I watched a lot of videos and read multiple sites trying to figure out the best way to install. I practiced on some scrap I had and below method was what I thought looked the best. Just adding a piece underneath from the get go and then splitting the top layer. I used 5200 to make sure it stayed watertight.

​

​

​

​

Did a side project on the boat for the livewell. The drains I got for the livewell measured just under an inch. Nobody makes a drain tube for them that I could find, so I improvised. Drilled a 1 inch hole with my hole saw in a piece of scrap wood. Fit a 3/4 pvc pipe (with electrical tape to try and keep it centered) through it and then redrilled using the hole as a guide to only cut off some of the exterior to the 3/4 pipe. Not exactly centered, but it works and fits nice and snug. If I had a lathe I could make it really pretty.

​

​

​

​

​

​

I added the strapping down for the three battery boxes. Two under the front seating area and one back at the splashwell. I originally got Size 27 boxes, but when I tried to install through the access holes I made, the fuel fill was in the way. So i changed to Size 24 which work just fine. I practiced installing the boxes and doing the straps with the seat in place. Its a pain in the a**, but it will keep them out of the way and more weight upfront. Also, I ran wiring and lights at the same time for charging and running the two front batteries in parallel.

​

​

​

​

​

​

Installed the front bench area with rivets and 5200. The large flange rivets (inside area) were installed every 7 inches and the normal rivets in the back were every 5 inches. Front bow section in very rigid now!

​

​

I decided I needed to add some additional backing under my front consoles. Need more wood then 1/2 to secure the battery charger and electrical boards into. I cut up and routed two pieces of 3/4 and epoxied them. I will be securing them with screws through the front of the console. As before, used JB weld and JB waterweld to seal up holes before sanding and epoxying. I also forgot to account for the horn hole I have on one of the consoles, so I will have to cut up one of the pieces to make room and epoxy again.

​

​

​

​

Decided the screws that I would secure the backer with would be stainless steel snap headed screws. That way, the admiral can make a cushion for people to lean against that ride up front. Wasn't entirely confident that the snaps/screws were both stainless steel. So did a quick test with salt and hydrogen peroxide. You can see the results of a brief time of exposure for a galvanized nail and a kreg screw vs the stainless steal snap. Feel much better about it.

​ ​​​​​​​

​


So that is the latest updates for me. Until next time....