Re: 1982 Sylvan Bassboat project
Thanks guys, I do appreciate the advice. We're kinda pot committed to our current course for the scratches and chips on the hull. Nothing was too deep. We got a single coat on almost the rest of the scratches and chips tonight after a thorough wash and wipe down with acetone.
What's the best method for removing the Sylvan logo/stickers on the sides? We're going to use the Valspar primer from TSC. going with gloss white for most of it and repainting the brown metal flake to a dark green metal flake. Any tips on how to do the metal flake would be appreciated as well. I thought I'd head to Sherwin Williams in town and talk with them about some Oil based Enamel options and use the Valspar hardener from TSC.
Here's a quick pic of tonights progress.
Sorry I missed this post earlier, but let me chime in here...
We don't do boats, but we do brand new, off the lot cars with unintended dings, bangs, bumps, scrapes and wrecks, and also most anything else that rolls in off of the street that either the owner or the insurance company is willing to pay for...
When it comes to metallic or metal flake paint I can tell you a few things...
1-Unless it is a Factory Original paint code Formula, on a finish less than say, three/four years old, it will be difficult at BEST, if not outright impossible, to get a perfect match...[That's where panel blending comes into play]...
2-If it is not original and you are not the original painter, you will have to be a magician to try and match somebody else's work...[amounts, coats, layers, techniques,etc.]
3- Unless you are going to use some strange "Ralph Lauren" type interior home latex paint which has a metallic sheen to it... I would NOT recommend this...
...
I would stay away from any metallic or metal flake-type paint finish for a boat.
Can be a real PITA, not if, but when the time comes for a touch up...
Most metallic/metal flakes are usually suspended in the base color or a base clear and MUST be properly sprayed on to prevent it from looking like Zebra stripes or Leopard splotches.
NOTE: by "properly", I mean a very practiced/experienced hand at spraying metallics/flakes
Rolling or brushing on of any metallic/flake paint, is almost 100% guaranteed to look very, very bad...
This is just my personal opinion based on years of working with, in and around all kinds of paint products...
I am sure someone out there has done this successfully, but I haven't seen the pictures or description...yet
If you are dead set on doing a metallic or flake paint job, educate yourself on the proper techniques and practice a lot...it is the only way you will get a satisfactory job...
As far as removing the old stickers, you have a couple or three, ways to do this...
1-Use a single edged razor blade, turned almost flat to the surface, between the sticker and the finish, and carefully peel away the sticker, then use some laquer thinner or acetone to remove the rest of the remaining adhesive...
2-I use a tool called a Dynabrade with a rubber wheel on it to remove pinstripes, adhesives, double stick tapes, etc, from paint finishes...it is like a High Speed Eraser...here is a link to their website...
http://www.dynabrade.com/dyn10/...
their server is currently down so I couldn't get a pic for ya...if the underlying finish is in good condition, it won't even mar the surface.
You might be able to rent a similar tool locally, if necessary...
3-Chemical stripper, last resort, may damage the finish
Hope any, some or all of this helps...
Later,
GT1M
PS- Awesome score on the pink Morse...