1981 Springbok 18' Restoration/Renovation

[SlipperyOar]

I finally got the outer transom skin cut from my cardboard template and after multiple times of sanding and filing, the fit is perfect. I used random nuts and bolts i had laying around to hold it in place while i went around marking where it needs to be trimmed down. I'm waiting on a new garboard drain plug to arrive so i can drill the hole out as another spot i can use to secure the skin to the existing sheet.

Yesterday i went and got some Gflex 650 that i'll use to attach the skin to the transom, I have read that the 650 may be a bit runnier than 655 but i think it should work well as any leftover epoxy i have i plan to use on the seams to seal them up well. Hopefully the thinner consistency 650 will hold up enough for me to get the sheet on in place, and clamp down on it for 24hrs to let it properly cure. I have read it can be thickened with an inert filler such as 406 colloidal silica. I plan on testing a small sample of two aluminum scrap pieces ive got without thickening before i determine if i should add this or not.

Once the epoxy is fully cured i'll begin installing solid rivets on the edges every 2" or so to provide some more strength and install the Z braces through both transom sheets, once these are securely on I'll reuse the cardboard template for my sheet and make the wooden transom up.

Hoping for some good warm days with low humidity in the next week to get this sheet epoxied on and then riveted.

Finally able to upload photos again, waiting on some epoxy thickener to show up so haven’t gotten any further with adhering the skin to my transom. Drilled all the required holes for fittings and rivets through both sheets while it was temporarily taped/bolted in place.

 

[SlipperyOar]

While I’ve been waiting to epoxy the skin on, I went and got a sheet of 3/4” ply to make the transom. Managed to make both pieces out of 1 sheet which was very nice. Currently letting the adhesive set between the two pieces while I’ve got it screwed and weighted down.

What is the best way to go about drilling holes through the wood and sealing them? I’ve read to oversize the hole and then fill with epoxy but this seems like it would be a lot of epoxy needed as well as a brittle hole within the wood. I’m going to remove the temporary screws once the adhesive is cured and fill those holes with neat epoxy to full seal them.


Just saw that my previous post didn’t allow the picture to be included, will include all the photos when this issue is resolved…

 

[SlipperyOar]

Still not able to upload pictures, becoming rather frustrating but making good progress.

I’ve got the outer skin epoxied onto the boat and fully cured, allowed it to sit a few days being clamped with the humidity we’ve been having and seems to be nearly impossible to ever remove. Started with the solid rivets on the perimeter of the skin today, gave each river a coat of 5200 beneath the head for a little extra sealing insurance. Once I get the Z braces riveted onto the transom (and have a helper for the bucking bar) I’ll drop my transom in and mark/drill out all the required holes so I can get them filled with epoxy to seal them up.

Hoping I can post some picture updates soon!

 

[SlipperyOar]

The outer skin is now fully cured, and all the solid rivets have been installed and set. I went around the perimeter of the transom skin putting a rivet in every 1-1/2", it came out looking very good and im impressed with the strength it added to the transom. I installed the Z braces with rivets again through both sheets of the transom, i decided to use some leftover aluminum from the skin and cut out 2 1"x26" pieces to sit between the transom and the Z brace to give me a bit more of a gap so the wood sits in better and allows for all the coats of sealer ill be putting onto the wood. I installed my stainless steel boat drain as well, used the rubber gasket it came with as well as a healthy amount of 3M 4200 to prevent the SS contacting aluminum, i put 2 solid rivets to hold the drain in place as i had many laying around and it seems like the best method for a secure hold.

In regards to sealing my wooden transom, does anyone have any experience using polyester resin? I'm aware on its own it has no strength without glass. Am i able to apply multiple coats of a wood sealant (old timers formula, thompsons water sealer?) and then apply the poly resin with glass to add extra strength? or is this a big no no? I thought the glass may add some strength but also help spread out loading as bolts are installed through and tightened down.
My idea was to apply many many coats of sealer as im not installing the transom for quite some time... I've yet to drill motor mount holes through the wood and aluminum as i don't have a motor for this boat quite yet and am hesitant/worried that the mounting holes may not align perfectly.

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Not sure you need seal with old timers or Thompsons. never heard anyone doing that.

just be sure to saturate the wood with resin prior to installing. That will seal the wood just fine.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Between applying sealer coats to the transom and being at work, i had some time yesterday to test the hull for leaks now that the largest hole, being the outdrive was covered and riveted in place. I filled the boat with enough water to be over the seams where the floor meets the sides. I ended up finding 4-5 rivets that were lose which i re-bucked and they seem to be much more solidly in there now. Found 9 more spots that the rivet was in there with no wiggle room and still had a bit of a seep to it so i drilled all of them out and replaced with new rivets, dipped in 5200. Won't have the time to do much for the next 4-5 days with work and a golf tournament which works out great to allow the 5200 to fully cure. Hopefully i'll get a successful leak test next week with no more slow drips, and then ill begin painting all the rivets and seams with Gluvit.

Hoping i can do a big photo dump soon once the photo issue is resolved.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Looking at my options for replacing the bow eye on the hull as the previous one was bent and quite rusty. The holes are 1-5/8" apart and found the exact bow eye on amazon. It appears that it is made of a Zinc Alloy Steel and Chrome Plated, the old one clearly rusted for a reason as it seems it essentially became a sacrificial anode. Ideally id like to use a bow eye with the same mounting pattern to avoid drilling new holes and making more space for water to potentially enter but the stainless options im finding seem to be different. Does anyone have any advice on using chrome plated zinc or on going with stainless requiring some modifications?

Also, does anybody know when iboats is expected to allow pictures to be uploaded again???

https://www.amazon.ca/Sea-Dog-079233-1-Twin-Shank-Bow/dp/B000X9XTJ2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[eggs712]

I bought a 316 stainless bow eye off Amazon that was a close fit to the original. I had to squeeze it together slightly in a vise to get it to fit though. Make sure that the other hardware with the eye such as nuts and washers are the same metal to prevent galvanic corrosion.

 

[todhunter]

I would keep looking for a 316 stainless bow eye that fits your boat. I wouldn't want to put anything plated up there, as the plating will come off in short order if you're using your trailer winch on the bow eye.

 

[SlipperyOar]

I would keep looking for a 316 stainless bow eye that fits your boat. I wouldn't want to put anything plated up there, as the plating will come off in short order if you're using your trailer winch on the bow eye.

Found a good quality SS316 from the local marina. Have the marine ply backing for it in clamps as we speak for the glue to cure and then I’ll get to cutting and fitting it properly.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Still not able to upload pictures, I apologize in advance for the ridiculous amount of photos I’ll be posting when I can. I will attempt to comment on the previous posts with pictures of what I had written…

 

[SlipperyOar]

Today I cut the aluminum sheet I had into an inner transom sheet, the wood will be sandwiched between this inner sheet and the outer sheet I have previously re-skinned. I used some leftover trimmings from it to make tabs that can be riveted to the hull around the edges. I’m currently welding these tabs onto the sheet after measuring their placement. Been about 8 years since I last did aluminum TIG welding in highschool, thanks to my brother for providing the TIG machine and helping get me started again LOL, it’s just like riding a bike. Welds seem to be going down good and really happy with how it’s coming together. By tomorrow I should be done with these tabs and then I can test fit it into the hull.

Waiting on some 6063 angle aluminum I’ve got ordered that I’m going to bend into the newly created open bow. Gotta create some wooden templates to shape them properly but until that aluminum arrives I’ll be on hot standby, waiting for my citrustrip to arrive so I can do the last bit of cleaning inside the hull and prepare for Gluvit.

Lake Erie looks like she should lay down Thursday for me, enough time to get out and catch a solid pickerel dinner. I’ll check in Thursday again to see if I can upload pictures and my progress updates.

 

[SlipperyOar]

My apologies if this doesn’t work, only wanting to share these pictures before the overall timeline doesn’t make sense.

Cutting, gluing, and sealing my wooden transom.

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[SlipperyOar]

Testing the transom fit.

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[SlipperyOar]

epoxied, clamped, and then added some self etching primer after using a 50/50 vinegar/water mixture to wash/etch the new skin. Installed with solid rivets around the perimeter and then applied the primer and drain hole. Only remaining holes in the skin at this point are for the transom tie downs and other bolts to fasten it all together.

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[SlipperyOar]

This was while I was doing a leak test, glad we had a water tanker on the farm or else it would have taken much longer through the hose lol. Found only a few rivets with a dribble so replaced all of them as stated above. Hit the hull with a power washer to try and remove as much residual adhesive from prior vinyl and paint as I could while it was wet.

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Did my TIG welding for the first time in about 8 years. Got some room for improvement yet but happy with how it turned out overall. Welding these tabs to my inner transom skin so they can be riveted to the hull. Going to finish up the rest of my welds tomorrow so I can begin on fabricating the knee brace and continue removing paint and adhesive from the hull to prepare for Gluvit.

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[flashback]

Looks good. I think you're having a grand time. Eating pickerel is soon on the menu.

 

[SlipperyOar]

today I worked away at testing out the fit on my newly welding and fabricated inner transom skin. Seems to fit quite well! Have somewhat of a warp in it from the welding process but once I bolted it into the hull it flattened out quite well and fits great against all the surfaces.

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After confirming the fit, I took it out of the hull and measured 6” down from the top edge with the hull so I can weld this angled piece on for strength and to have a flat mounting surface that the splash well can be attached to. Still have some final alignments to check before I fire the TIG machine up.

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[SlipperyOar]

Got to Erieau just before 7am yesterday, launched and had lines in the water by 7:30, back at the ramp and boat on the trailer by 11am. Managed a 2 man limit with a bonus steelie on the day! Was nice to get on the big water again and thankful for some calm conditions.

Back to work today epoxying an aluminum plate onto the bow as the new bow eye has a different pattern than the previous. Going to use the same Gflex system I did for the transom skin to attach a piece of aluminum and let that set over the weekend with a memorial golf tournament for a recently lost friend happening tomorrow. Wishing everyone a great weekend.

https://imgur.com/a/5KJ8NvC

 

[SlipperyOar]

Well well well, safe to say my progress for the next couple weeks will be limited as I had a negative encounter with a tablesaw this morning. Was working on cutting some 2x4’s to create a reach clamp as I needed them to hold some pieces on that normal clamps wouldn’t apply pressure in far areas for some measuring purposes.

Using a pusher stick and all, with my right hand on the wood plenty far from the blade, I hit a pretty gnarly knot in the wood and it caused the piece to jump just enough to throw my thumb into the blade. Missing a bit of flesh from my thumb tip now and a few stitches later but I’m home and still living lol.

On the bright side of things, I can officially say I’ve finally achieved the blood, sweat, and beers for this boat. Hoping to heal up quickly so I can get back to working!