1981 Springbok 18' Restoration/Renovation

SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
The gluvit on all the seams cured nicely, I riveted the stringers back into the boat.

There was a few spots with some signs of corrosion so I cleaned with soap and water, then wire brushed away any of the corrosion, then acid etched and primed each spot. I then used 2 part epoxy to fill any small corrosion pitting spots and allowed that to cure.

I then began building the front casting deck framing. Using 1/8” thick angled aluminum varying between 1-1/2” and 1-1/4” leg lengths, the longer leg lengths in the middle and the shorter lengths towards the front as I plan on having a pedestal base for a seat. Have a few more pieces to add in tomorrow to tie into the hull between the front and rear cross beams. I opted to use solid rivets where I could access both sides for added strength and the resistance to vibrations possibly loosening them.

Coming together nicely!
 

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SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
Continued on with framing the casting deck. I’ve got 4 vertical supports still needed and 1 more horizontal brace at the very front to allow to fore-most part of the future deck to be secured and be a meeting spot where the deck will connect perpendicularly to a cover beneath the cap. Hoping to have some time tomorrow or Sunday to finish these last bits up!

Back to work next week and likely won’t get any work done on it for the next 2 weeks with my busy schedule so this has been a nice productive stretch!
 

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SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
One thing i noticed last night as i cleaned my workspace, i may have slightly miscalculated the dimensions of my splashwell. The splashwell fits perfectly from gunnel to gunnel in the boat, but the two pieces of aluminum that were supposed to rivet to the side of the hull and join with the side storage pieces may not fit in there now. Doesnt seem like too large of an issue, i'll likely need to cut back on the side piece and fold tabs on it to reattach and just use solid rivets with 5200 on any unused holes. Minor mistake made by me but shouldnt hold me back
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,164
One thing i noticed last night as i cleaned my workspace, i may have slightly miscalculated the dimensions of my splashwell. The splashwell fits perfectly from gunnel to gunnel in the boat, but the two pieces of aluminum that were supposed to rivet to the side of the hull and join with the side storage pieces may not fit in there now. Doesnt seem like too large of an issue, i'll likely need to cut back on the side piece and fold tabs on it to reattach and just use solid rivets with 5200 on any unused holes. Minor mistake made by me but shouldnt hold me back
We call that an engineering design change, very common !
 

SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
Welded some 2” flat bars onto the bow casting deck framing. Added it to the 3/4” leg sections to add some area needed when I have storage compartments and need the area to support the hatches. Everything went well with the welding; 110 amps, 30% AC balance, grey tungsten, 3/32” 5356 filler.

Also did some welding after the initial fit up was perfect for the aft deck. It’ll tie in to both sides of the hull with angled pieces of aluminum riveted to the hull, as well as being riveted to the gunnels for rigidity. Tied into the stringers with 1-1/4” leg angled aluminum. Tied into the splashwell as well. Not quite done yes as I’d like to reinforce it a bit more to add some more lateral strength along the bottom.

Next up will be adding a few more 2” strips to the bow framing for another storage hatch, and finishing up with the bracing for the aft deck.

Thinking about running some rectangular or angle aluminum parallel with the stringers along the sides of the hull to give the floor more locations where it can be tied it, as well as adding additional strength.

Happy with what it’s come to so far, hoping to be done all the structural framing shortly and begin measuring out all the wooden flooring and getting that cut and fit up.
 

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SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
Upon getting the main frame of the rear decking in, I kept on looking at it for a while and thought how much of a pain in the a$$ it always is to bring a big cooler in my other boat whenever I’m fishing to hold the catch of the day.

With all of the scrap aluminum I’ve got from other things I’ve fabricated I’ve got roughy enough for 4/5 of the panels to fabricate a livewell to go beneath the two angled pieces and fit within the 4 vertical beams. Roughly 24” wide, 13” deep, and up to 22” of height from the stringers to the top. I don’t plan on going all of the way to the bottom to give me some space for the drain tubing to run off but I really like the idea of having a livewell.

I’ve seen lots of boats with the aft mounted livewell, and lots with the bow mounted livewell. I do have a spot in the bow where I could mount a livewell as well, with slightly smaller capacity. If anyone could chime in on what’s best for weight distribution it would be great. Both would be directly in the middle along the keep so it shouldn’t cause any excess weight to either side. Regardless if they become livewells. Having two aluminum boxes for storage could be amazing and eventually transforming 1 or both into a livewell would surely open up deck space to eliminate the need for bringing a cooler or bucket for fish.

I looked into it lots at these Flow-Rite systems and the V3 looks really appealing. I like the functionality of them with limited holes through the hull and of course adding a seacock to any ports to add leak prevention redundancy.
 

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SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
I haven’t had the time to get much done lately, the cold snap we’ve been facing held me out from working in my uninsulated shop until our insulated one cleared out.

I got the remaining bracing in for my rear deck and modified the sidewall compartment pieces to fit perfectly with the rear framing.

Final measurements taken and aluminum sheets are in so it’ll be time to cut and weld my livewell. I’m still trying to determine the best way to allow most of the water to drain, whether it be a creased bottom or cutting a 3” hole and welding a collar to lower the drain completely.

I don’t have a picture but I have an outside patch epoxied and riveted onto the bottom of the hull for some extra beef where the knee brace rivets are going to be. I plan on getting my knee brace work done in my next days off and getting it fully installed before I create a motor mounting hole jig to drill the holes for the outboard.

A few old holes from existing stuff in the sides of the hull so I plan on cleaning those up well and installed some solid rivets with adequate 5200.
 

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SlipperyOar

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
96
Knee brace modified to give it a sheet of aluminum that will span to the lower motor mounting bolts. The deadrise of my transom was 1-2° off from what I bent and fabricated the knee brace to. chopped the vertical tabs off and welded some angle to the knee. Fits like a glove now.

Not sure if anyone is reading in on this thread but I’m enjoying posting a lot keeping a little log lol. It’s nice to look back on the progress I’ve been making. Having to bracing storm and design and then fabricate every piece has been the biggest factor in this build that’s kept me slowed down but enjoying the progress. Christmas coming up so progress will come to a halt here.

Merry Christmas and happy new year to all!
 

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neex

Recruit
Joined
Jun 22, 2022
Messages
4
Phenomenal work! I've enjoyed living vicariously through your progress and seeing a few similarities. A quick note on that knee brace. Those tabs should be reinforced up top as they are definitely a weak spot in my experience. Now, if there's no flex it likely will never crack. I repaired and reinforced my knee brace when I redid the transom.
 

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