1981 Sportcraft 270 repair underway - transom, stringers, & repower

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JASinIL2006

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The demo absolutely is the worst part! Hang in there! Once you're done tearing out stuff and grinding fiberglass, it gets much easier (and a lot more fun).
 

WalleyeSniper

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The demo absolutely is the worst part! Hang in there! Once you're done tearing out stuff and grinding fiberglass, it gets much easier (and a lot more fun).
Yeah, this demolition portion is definitely for the birds!!! Lol

I am stuck on the transom... I have gotten most everything cleared out, but I simply CANNOT get this extremely paper thin layer of wood grain from the transom! I've tried power scrapers, grinding wheels, cutting wheels, cutting it into tiny sections and grinding or power scraping it off - literally NOTHING is pulling this little paper thin layer off.

Anyone have any tips or ideas?

20210730_144332.jpg
 

todhunter

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This is when you use the 40 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. I bought my flap discs on Amazon for $16 for a 10-pack. Ended up using three 10-packs on my boat restoration. This is what my transom looked like after removing the wood and hitting the surface with a belt sander (36 grit) to get rid of as much of the remaining wood chunks as I could. Grinding with the flap disc takes it down even further to good glass and removes that paper thin layer of wood - like this.

Prepare yourself for the ensuing dust storm. You'll need a respirator and eye protection at a minimum and I recommend long sleeve clothes and a Tyvek suit.
 

kcassells

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This is when you use the 40 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. I bought my flap discs on Amazon for $16 for a 10-pack. Ended up using three 10-packs on my boat restoration. This is what my transom looked like after removing the wood and hitting the surface with a belt sander (36 grit) to get rid of as much of the remaining wood chunks as I could. Grinding with the flap disc takes it down even further to good glass and removes that paper thin layer of wood - like this.

Prepare yourself for the ensuing dust storm. You'll need a respirator and eye protection at a minimum and I recommend long sleeve clothes and a Tyvek suit.
Like the old man said 40 grit or better. Just be carefull of over gauging. Belt sander kicks ass and grinder for tight spots.
Their is nothing nice at all about the history you are going to remove. Dress well. Take breaks and sit back, then go to it. Hot showers required.
With this script of work tools become disposable so don't buy anything too crazy.
 

WalleyeSniper

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Like the old man said 40 grit or better. Just be carefull of over gauging. Belt sander kicks ass and grinder for tight spots.
Their is nothing nice at all about the history you are going to remove. Dress well. Take breaks and sit back, then go to it. Hot showers required.
With this script of work tools become disposable so don't buy anything too crazy.

I cannot WAIT until this demo portion is done, it is like a never-ending hell. Get past one hurdle, then three more headaches popup. Lol

I've been using baby powder on my neck and hands, wearing my full face respirator, and donning either a long sleeve and leggings or my tyvek suit.

Definitely going to Harbor Freight for a cheaper belt sander and some other odds and ends. Hopefully I can put in one full day of grit and get it knocked out to the glass. Short chance, but that's how I keep motivating myself, "just one more day until the fun stuff". ๐Ÿ˜†
 

WalleyeSniper

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This is when you use the 40 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. I bought my flap discs on Amazon for $16 for a 10-pack. Ended up using three 10-packs on my boat restoration. This is what my transom looked like after removing the wood and hitting the surface with a belt sander (36 grit) to get rid of as much of the remaining wood chunks as I could. Grinding with the flap disc takes it down even further to good glass and removes that paper thin layer of wood - like this.

Prepare yourself for the ensuing dust storm. You'll need a respirator and eye protection at a minimum and I recommend long sleeve clothes and a Tyvek suit.
That boat looks GREAT, I'm gonna check out more pics of it and follow along. I can't believe how much difference a flap wheel makes! After you said that, I went out and got a few today and they worked WAY better than I anticipated. Still having a rough time for the paper thin glued stuff, so I'm probably gonna have to move to a belt sander and a carbide shaping disc. Apparently that should do good as my buddy advised.

After the first day of dust flying everywhere, I invested in two really good fans and a full face respirator with dual organic vapor cartridges and dust filters down to 3 microns. So, hopefully that'll be adequate.

I can't wait to get to the point of my glass looking clean enough to begin working on it like you showed in the pics you linked me to. Kudos to you, because that looked like some professional level high grade work there, awesome job man!
 

JASinIL2006

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Full tyvek suit, with nitrile gloves taped to the sleeves, and leather gloves on top, goes a long way to prevent the itchies.
 

KJM

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THANK YOUUU!!! I've been great so far, except for my wrists itching. Hadn't even occurred to me to tape the gloves and sleeves! Oh I wish I could high-five you right now. Lol
Whatever cloths you wear, if you don't wear a tyvek suit over it, you might as well throw out after your done. Washing doesn't get all the itchy dust out and they will drive you nuts everytime you wear them! Don't make the mistake of thinking you'll do some grinding in your garage on a rainy day either. I'm still dealing with the dust from that mistake!
 

todhunter

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That boat looks GREAT, I'm gonna check out more pics of it and follow along. I can't believe how much difference a flap wheel makes! After you said that, I went out and got a few today and they worked WAY better than I anticipated. Still having a rough time for the paper thin glued stuff, so I'm probably gonna have to move to a belt sander and a carbide shaping disc. Apparently that should do good as my buddy advised.

After the first day of dust flying everywhere, I invested in two really good fans and a full face respirator with dual organic vapor cartridges and dust filters down to 3 microns. So, hopefully that'll be adequate.

I can't wait to get to the point of my glass looking clean enough to begin working on it like you showed in the pics you linked me to. Kudos to you, because that looked like some professional level high grade work there, awesome job man!
Thanks man! I'm a newbie to this, but this board and a few YouTube channels have really helped me do good work and make progress. You'll get there. Just be careful with the flap discs. I took a chunk out of one of my fingers with the grinder 8 months ago and at this point I'm gonna say I'll never have a fingerprint in that spot.
 

WalleyeSniper

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Whatever cloths you wear, if you don't wear a tyvek suit over it, you might as well throw out after your done. Washing doesn't get all the itchy dust out and they will drive you nuts everytime you wear them! Don't make the mistake of thinking you'll do some grinding in your garage on a rainy day either. I'm still dealing with the dust from that mistake!
I am glad you told me that, because I thought I was losing my mind and just imagining being itchy when I put one of my shirts on. But, after you said that, I realized that is the exact shirt I used when demoing! So, there goes that shirt and my favorite pair of dickies work pants! Lol

Thanks for mentioning this, because I've surely ruined two entire outfits by now for sure... Are there any good reusable tyvek suits? Or do I just keep using a brand new one every time?
 

KJM

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If you are real careful you may get a few uses out of one. I just used the same old cloths and then discarded them when they got too bad or my wife would no longer let me put them in the washer! I eventually gave up on the tyvek suits because they don't last.
 

todhunter

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I got 4+ wears out of my tyvek suits. I bought 3 and only used 2. I have been able to wash my clothes I wore during demo and grinding [under the tyvek], but they are dedicated fiberglassing clothes now. I only wear them when doing glass work.
 

kcassells

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Get use to da itch is all I have to say. No bubble protector no matter how much you wear or sweat. Gets on everything cluding da dog.
 

buxmj

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Great job so far and thanks for sharing your journey and current misery. After the grinding if someone is being a jerk and tells you to go to hell you can say you have already been there and that is the biggest reason I will probably only restore one boat in my life, lol. Mine is such a small project compared to many on here, I continue to be amazed at these great projects, yours included.

You mentioned in an earlier post about how bad the factory glasswork was, I had commented a few times on my thread wondering if any fiberglass boat was not made on a Friday afternoon payday.
 

JASinIL2006

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I reused my tyvek suits until they got holes in them. Before taking off the PPE, I'd use shop air to blow off as much fiberglass dust as I could. Once the tyvek gets a hole in it, it's done. I started wearing knee pads outside the tyvek suit, because (other than rips) the knees were the first part to wear out.
 

WalleyeSniper

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Great job so far and thanks for sharing your journey and current misery. After the grinding if someone is being a jerk and tells you to go to hell you can say you have already been there and that is the biggest reason I will probably only restore one boat in my life, lol. Mine is such a small project compared to many on here, I continue to be amazed at these great projects, yours included.

You mentioned in an earlier post about how bad the factory glasswork was, I had commented a few times on my thread wondering if any fiberglass boat was not made on a Friday afternoon payday.
Yessss!!! It's like every single boat was made on a Friday at 4pm... Either that, or laminated during a weekend bender during Marti Gras, ๐Ÿ˜†.

Seriously, nothing was wrapped tight, air bubbles and voids galore. The lumber they used was garbage, everything seemed to have one layer of heavy roven only halfass wetter out. Open and exposed lumber EVERYWHERE, even in the back bottom corner of the stringers where they cut a radius out to let water flow into the bilge - but didn't cover or seal the wood and just left the entire stringer open in the deepest furthest aft point of the bilge!

The entire front had no drainage for water to go anywhere from the side stringers and the drainage holes from fore to aft were so tiny that so much as a peanut would probably jam it closed. Just conpletely unbelievable what a factory churned out. ๐Ÿ˜ž

I'm glad you like the thread. What project are you building on, or planning to restore!? ๐Ÿ˜€
 
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