1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[GWPSR]

NICE!!! Interesting to know that the Coast Guard actually has a minimum allowance for fuel leakage!!! One would think that NO leaks would be the standard...

Look at section 183.524 (page 46) in http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf :

183.524 Fuel pumps.
If tested under Sec. 183.590 each fuel pump, as installed in the boat, must not leak more than five ounces of fuel in 2 1/2 minutes, inclusive of leaks from fuel line, fuel filter and strainer.

I'm not interested is having 5 ounces of fuel leak into my bilge in 2 1/2 weeks! :crazy::target::flame::stupid:

 

[sabrevato]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Today I finished making the clamps:

Then I wet-out the edges and fore side of the transom. I'll probably wet-out the aft side tomorrow night, and maybe the inside of the skin if I'm ambitious. No pic of the transom. It looks the same, only shiny

do you recall the measurement from the bottom of the opening for the outdrive transom shield to the bottom of the boat? I just had the transom replaced at the boat yard, and they threw away the template!!!! My boat is 26' and running the same outdrive. THanks Jim

 

[GWPSR]

do you recall the measurement from the bottom of the opening for the outdrive transom shield to the bottom of the boat? I just had the transom replaced at the boat yard, and they threw away the template!!!! My boat is 26' and running the same outdrive. THanks Jim

Sorry, no. I simply used the hole in the fiberglass to scribe onto the plywood. Did you have the entire outer skin replaced on the transom?

 

[GWPSR]

do you recall the measurement from the bottom of the opening for the outdrive transom shield to the bottom of the boat? I just had the transom replaced at the boat yard, and they threw away the template!!!! My boat is 26' and running the same outdrive. THanks Jim

Just found these on Google. Not sure if they might get you started:

 

[Tboner7864]

Its been a while. I have been watching that motor is a beauty. Was that the one that came with your boat GW? Or did I miss something well anyways I will get my new boat on here one day been working on the house the admiral wants another bathroom priority first. So for now I will live vicariously through you guys keep up the good work

 

[GWPSR]

Its been a while. I have been watching that motor is a beauty. Was that the one that came with your boat GW? Or did I miss something well anyways I will get my new boat on here one day been working on the house the admiral wants another bathroom priority first. So for now I will live vicariously through you guys keep up the good work

No, it's brandy spankin' new! All we needed to do was bolt on the manifolds, risers, carb and pulleys. Carb is completely rebuilt, as is the ignition. Alternator is brand new as well as the fuel pump. We're 2 hours into the 10-hour break-in period so far. Got it dialed in about as close as we can before hoisting it up and into the bilge.

 

[Tboner7864]

Sweet! cant wait to see it in the boat, Update on Blue grandma she got stripped of her parts and cut up and recycled. The trailer was all he wanted,do do do do do another one bites the dust do do do do do :drum:ainkiller::laser::smash::rip:

 

[GWPSR]

Sweet! cant wait to see it in the boat, Update on Blue grandma she got stripped of her parts and cut up and recycled. The trailer was all he wanted,do do do do do another one bites the dust do do do do do :drum:ainkiller::laser::smash::rip:

Did they at least call on you to dig a hole? :lol:

 

[GWPSR]

gwpjr has been busy fairing the inside of the hull as well. That way we can be sure that no matter what interior treatment we choose (paint or vinyl) will not show underlying defects that the original monkey fur hid.

Today, we'll try to remove all of the rails and deck fittings. The primer (2 part epoxy, high solids) has arrived, as well as a quart each of the two topcoat colors we have chosen. We'll do tests on hatch covers to verify that the colors work with each other. Hatteras White for the hull, and a light grey non-skid for the helm and cockpit decks.

 

[GWPSR]

By the end of the day yesterday, the boat looked entirely different -- no cleats, no bow rail, no windshield. All deck fittings except for a couple of teak grab bars have been removed. All holes were beveled and clean, and filled.

I spent all day with the RO sander feathering the fairing out on the lower half of the hull. Will probably go back out and do all of the upper half today. There is still a small area of original paint left on the starboard side above the rubrail to do. That takes longer as those areas are about 4 layers of paint, and at least one of them is pretty thick. Not too brutal with dust collection on the sander though. I'm using about 20 feet of hose to a shop vac with a washable filter. Works like a champ. I had small chips on me, but was not covered with dust after all those hours.

 

[GWPSR]

Three coats of 2-part epoxy primer on the transom and port sides of the boat, below the rubrail:

Starting to look pretty good from where I sit.

 

[GWPSR]

The whole boat has been primed:

We rolled and tipped the port side below the rub-rail today (picture later) to test out a specific roller cover type. So far it seems to work fine. Trying 1/4" nap rather than 3/8" to reduce the stipple.

Rear berth hatch cover has been primed, top-coated and two coats of texture applied to the tread areas. I like the contrast and the look:

 

[ShowMeGuy]

looks good from where I'm sitting....

 

[Woodonglass]

Have you tried using the High Density Foam rollers for Cabinets and doors?? They work really well and if you re-roll with an almost dry roller you can get an almost spray like finish. Called the Roll n' Roll technique.

 

[GWPSR]

Have you tried using the High Density Foam rollers for Cabinets and doors?? They work really well and if you re-roll with an almost dry roller you can get an almost spray like finish. Called the Roll n' Roll technique.

Yes. We get too many bubbles. We use them for the primer as it's not the final appearance and the bubbles get sanded out. We've got lots of boat and multiple coats to experiment with though

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmmm, didn't have that problem. What paint? What Thinner ratio? Just curious!

 

[GWPSR]

Hmmm, didn't have that problem. What paint? What Thinner ratio? Just curious!

TotalBoat Wet-Edge. Have tried it out of the can, and thinned 10%. Thinned has too many sags on vertical surfaces. Might be OK for horizontal though.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, never tried Roll n' Roll using Polyurethane paint. Watched their video and the brushing technique looks to yield great results. Looks like it self-levels really well. Not a bad price either.

 

[GWPSR]

I think we've found a winning combination. 1/4" woven roller covers for the barrier coat/primer, and a 9" roller cover with a very thin layer of foam for the top coat. It might be a cover designed for stain and varnish. With that roller, there's no bubbles, and roll-and-roll leaves a very nice finish. Glad we found the sweet spot before we did above the rubrail. It's starting to look really nice.

I've been messing around inside as well, creating templates and cutting plywood for a set of bulkheads that surround the fresh water tank in the bow. Glued some cleats to the hull last night and will fillet them with PB when they've cured. Pictures when I get back in there.

Have also been using the old head walls and partitions as new templates for replacements. The new sole is about 5/8" higher than the original, and I'm making sure to trim and fit better than the originals.

Toilet, rubrail and hull ID numbers are ordered and in transit.

[url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WPQNB2[/URL]

 

[GWPSR]

Looking shiny after the second coat of top coat.