1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[nurseman]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krD4hdGvGHM

 

[Arawak]

Andy Miller over at Boatworks Today just finished an experiment on gelcoat over epoxy. Before anyone says that you can't gelcoat over epoxy again, watch these two vids:

Very cool results. I'll probably still use paint, but it's nice to know what's possible.

I've done it before with good results, but only in small spots that aren't prone to much flexing. There are a couple important points. The amines in typical epoxy hardeners inhibit polyester curing. So you need to

* follow the mix ratio very carefully, and do not go hardener-rich
* allow the epoxy to cure *fully* (this is typically at least a week)
* before you do any sanding, wipe down the epoxy with a damp cloth to remove the amine-rich blush (else you could just grind the blush into the surface)

As always, surface prep is important... I like to make sure the is a well sanded surface with a good bite to it for the gelcoat to stick to.

Without attention to these details, it will work... for a year or two. Then it will peel off. I think this is why people say it can't be done. There are professionals who do repairs this way with good results but they know what to do and pay attention to details.

So, I'm not saying I recommend it, but it can be done and has been done. I've never seen how well it holds up long term on a large flexy section though.

 

[Woodonglass]

Now THAT IS Enlightening. Thanks Sooooo much for posting!!! It really changes my thought process. I know WS has been touting their epoxies abilities with gelcoat for quite some time but..Seeing IS believing..!!!!!

 

[tpenfield]

Somewhere, a few years ago, I read up on applying resin over epoxy . . . I recall that you could rid the epoxy surface of excess amines with water :noidea: Never really tried it though.

 

[zool]

Somewhere, a few years ago, I read up on applying resin over epoxy . . . I recall that you could rid the epoxy surface of excess amines with water :noidea: Never really tried it though.

Yup, for some reason, water works good removing the blush....that's all I use....but then I wipe with a solvent, to get rid of any contaminates the water left...

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, been doing a LOT of reading and researching and from what I've learned the consensus seems to be that, like what is shown in the video the short term results with gelcoating over epoxy is very good due to the great adhesive qualities of epoxy. However it's the longterm that seems to be the issue. Prolonged exposure to heat, moisture, flexing etc.. seems to break down the bond much more with the epoxy-Gelcoat bond than it does with the Poly-Gelcoat bond. I'm just Posting what I've found with my research and reading. You're free to do the same.

 

[electrabishi]

Been watching this thread with great interest the last couple years. I have the same boat as GWPSR except with the Command Bridge. For the most part all this work is applicable to my hull. Fortunately there was only one soft spot in the engine compartment deck to repair, not really big enough to justify even ripping the engine out. I see this project has gotten mostly through the hull and I was waiting until the topside work began just to throw this query to those reading with as much interest as me. I want to remove the Command Bridge on mine and replace with a flat hard top. I don't mean in any way to highjack GWPSR 's thread. I do have a new thread started if anyone would care to comment. I am continuing to read this thread with much interest. Good luck GWPSR.

 

[GWPSR]

Yawn ... Is it Spring yet?

The ice has finally thawed. Broke open the wrap and found the inside bone dry after being covered all winter. Pulled it back to let it air out a bit,and don't you know we had a surprise monsoon. The drain on the cabin stairs had a well placed leaf blocking it, and water spilled over the threshold into the cabin. About 2" deep up front. Shop-Vac took care of it easily. The glassing we had done on the sole did its job swimmingly (no pun intended...)

While we waited for temps to get high enough for further fiberglass work, I began to examine what I need to make the trailer safe and legal. Recall that a PO genius decided to remove all brake lines and that the master cylinder was without fluid for a long time. Hard to imagine that it wasn't a disaster waiting to happen to tow a boat weighing 5,500 lbs on a trailer weighing 1,000 pounds with NO BRAKES... SMH.

So we pulled the tires on one side and popped off the drums. The original braking axle was found to have no shoes in it at all, and had cylinders that were completely shot. The good news however is that the front axle was relatively new, and featured cylinders and shoes that had never been used and were still sealed:

I removed the actuator and broke it down for rebuilding. I stripped all the parts of loose scale, applied rust dissolver, and wire brushed bronze bushings:

Ordered a new master cylinder, single axle brake line kit, flex line for the tongue, 7-pin harness, marker and clearance lamps (all LED), and a watertight junction box.

I had applied a fresh coat of cold galvanizing a week ago, and went out to Lowes for all new machine bolts, and so last night, as I was grilling sausages, I rebuilt the actuator and it's all ready to go:

Unfortunately, I got greasy fingerprints all over my newly galvanized finish. It still looks lightyears better than original however.

 

[Woodonglass]

Nice rebuild. Are you just doing brakes on the one axle?

 

[GWPSR]

Nice rebuild. Are you just doing brakes on the one axle?

Yup. Studied up on the requirements, and for this application, that is acceptable. I'll bet it's way less scary than being push into each intersection like when I brought it home Actually, even being 1,000 pounds overweight, and having no brakes, it didn't handle that bad on the way home. I am glad I didn't have to panic stop though. Bet it would have been underwhelming...

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm Yeah!!!! Me Too!!! I'm bettin' when you get her set up and hit the brakes the first time you'll be amazed at how much better she puts the "Whoa!!!" on!!!! If you fixed both axles she'd proly stop on a dime going downhill!!!

 

[GWPSR]

Did I mention that on the way home, the only functioning lights were the running lights? So in addition to the bright orange flags on the rear, I had to turn my parking lights on anytime I was preparing to stop so as to give any poor sap behind me a little clue something was about to happen.

 

[bruceb58]

You need brakes on both axles...trust me. We had your exact boat being towed by a 3/4T Suburban. You need both axles to be working.

When you get that thing loaded with fuel, water and gear, you are easily going to be over 8000 lbs. Closer to 9000.

 

[Captain Ollie West]

I towed mine home without brakes as the P.O. had removed the old vacuum stuff. I will probably go with surge brakes at some point. The lines and brakes are still in place. I tow with an F350 crewcab PSD dually so it wasn't too scary, but also not safe.

How often and how far will you be towing it? I think if it will only be towed occasionally to the local ramp, one axle would be okay. If you are towing long distancesat highway speeds or over mountain passes, two axles would be better.

I agree with bruceb58, you are looking at closer to 9K for actual weight.

 

[GWPSR]

If I had a full tank of gasoline (unlikely unless I gate out a second mortgage...), that would add 800 pounds (at 6.4 pounds per gallon). The water tank if full adds 166 pounds. The base weight of the boat is 5,440 pounds. Looks like I'd have to try really hard to go over 6,500 pounds on the road plus the stated weight of the trailer (from the mfg's plate) of 800 pounds. I seem to be a ton lighter than your estimate.

I am between 3 and 12 miles from whatever body of water I choose to launch in locally (canal, river, bay or lake). Once completed, the road time would be twice yearly, once at splash each spring and once at haul-out each fall.

 

[bruceb58]

Not sure what trailer you have but our trailer was close to 2000# for the exact same boat. No way your trailer only weighs 800#. You may want to weigh your rig some time. Will surprise you. We weighed ours and it was over 8000#.

If I remeber correctly, ours had a 50 gallon water tank. That was 400 lbs just by itself. All of our gear in the boat was probably close to 500 pounds. Base weight likley does not include batteries...

 

[Mark72233]

I have to agree with bruce on the weight on the trailer. I have a trailer from the donor boat which was only 17 feet long and the trailer has a single axle and the this trailer weighs almost 750 lbs. That beast of a trailer you have has got to be pushing at least 1800 lbs.

 

[GWPSR]

Brand spankin' new SBC 350 from Michigan Motorz arrives tomorrow! Ordered the "base engine" - long block + water pump, all tins, harmonic balancer. Complete with gasket kit. I'm like a kid at Christmas.

Reglazed the aft berth window that used to be bypass glass panels with a single piece of fixed acrylic last night. Recored the bottom side of the bow deck last week. Solid as a rock now. Also filled a couple of gaping wounds in the helm deck where a table and seating used to be attached.

 

[zool]

Brand spankin' new SBC 350 from Michigan Motorz arrives tomorrow! Ordered the "base engine" - long block + water pump, all tins, harmonic balancer. Complete with gasket kit. I'm like a kid at Christmas.

Reglazed the aft berth window that used to be bypass glass panels with a single piece of fixed acrylic last night. Recored the bottom side of the bow deck last week. Solid as a rock now. Also filled a couple of gaping wounds in the helm deck where a table and seating used to be attached.

Awlsome!..whats not to like about a new long block!....glad to see youre back at it, I was starting to think the 2 escaped convicts got ya!

 

[Brian 26]

Glad to see this project moving along, looking forward to more updates.