Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust
Got a little done today. Put the pieces of 3/4"plywood previously cut and sealed into position and trimmed a smidge on one end:
then measured and cut the piece that sits forward of them and covers the sump:
The forward edge of that piece is rounded over as it will be an exposed step.
Note the piece of scrap ply laying across the hull in front of the bulkhead. This is approximately the height of the galley sole, 7 3/4" inches below the sole at the base of the stairs and under the head.
We shot a laser parallel to the rear stringers around the forward half of the hull as a reference for all structure to be fabricated. Sitting and thinking, and measuring and thinking, and mocking up with scrap lumber led us to a slightly different stringer design than I had originally envisioned. Under the dropped sole, there will be three stringers made of 1 1/2" fir. The center one is nearly 9" tall at the bulkhead, tapering to a near point after about 4 1/2' to the end of the 8' length. Two on either side are 5" tall at the bulkhead, and will follow a pair of strakes forward, straight and parallel for the first 4 1/2 feet, and tapering upward and bowing slightly inward from there forward another 2 feet.
Then, on the way to Lowes to buy lumber and foam board, West Marine for a deck cover for the sump, and Harbor Freight, my truck made some very unhappy sounds while turning the steering wheel. After a quick retreat home, a duck under the truck to look, we made a detour to the auto parts store in gwpjr's truck to get a power steering return line (and fluid) to replace the rotted one that squirted what was left of the previous fluid on the driveway. We stopped at Harbor Freight and West on that trip since the auto parts store was on the same side of town. A half hour later, we were back on our intended mission.
Seems excessive to buy a 4x8x1 sheet of blue foam just for this, but we cut two pieces to line the bottom of the sump, and PL glued them to the hull. Following that, a 5" wide piece of 3/4" ply, beveled along the bottom, was glued flat to the bottom as a surface to take screws for the pump.
After the PL cures, the inside of the sump will be filleted to the foam and the wood will be tabbed to the bottom, then the entire inside of the sump will get another layer of glass.
The sole above the sump will have the underside glassed as well. a 6" diameter hole will be made before glassing, and the glass will be wrapped over the edges for waterproofing. After the topside is glassed, the deck plate will be affixed and sealed.
I opted for a screw-in 6" plate, with a see-thru center. This appeals to me for two reasons -- it was $5 cheaper, and because I would be compulsively opening the cover to see if there was any water down there if I couldn't see in.
