1980's Hydro Glass Restoration Project

[Baylinerchuck]

Awesome idea! You rock! Should I be concerned about the plastic bonding to the epoxy?

I was using polyester resin so it peeled right off mine. I'm pretty sure epoxy would yield the same result. I bought a ton of those little clamps at HF for a little bit of nothing.

 

[kcassells]

I'm using all epoxy, round these parts I'll be crucified if I even utter the words chopped strand mat

Poly wants a Cracker:lol::lol::lol:

EEEEEEEEEEEppppooooxxxxyyyyyyyyyyyy....wants a Side of Beef!

 

[kcon]

I was using polyester resin so it peeled right off mine. I'm pretty sure epoxy would yield the same result. I bought a ton of those little clamps at HF for a little bit of nothing.

You just saved my weekend, and the quality of my layup!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Poly wants a Cracker:lol::lol::lol:

EEEEEEEEEEEppppooooxxxxyyyyyyyyyyyy....wants a Side of Beef!

Ha ha....nothing like the smell of polyester resin in the morning!! I have grown quite fond of it!!

 

[gm280]

Ha ha....nothing like the smell of polyester resin in the morning!! I have grown quite fond of it!!

Actually when I first starter use polyester, the smell was so overwhelmingly strong I couldn't work around it without a really good respirator. But seems now I can get away with mixing up a batch and it doesn't seem to effect me as much. Maybe my brain is already fired from it. :noidea:

 

[kcassells]

At the end of the day clothe with eeeeeeeppppoxxxy or poly won't make a 90 degree turn. Different fabric or cloth will make that happen. Let's hear the responses...

 

[kcon]

Got about 75% done with the 17oz layup, a bit more since this picture but I can only have so many pictures of the same thing with a bit of progress lol. I tried Baylinerchuck's method with varying results, on the stringers it didn't work. On the bulkheads, a smaller surface, worked great. Perhaps between the length / width combined with the amount of clamps I have readily available, I was more able to pay close attention to working out air while working.

So, anyway - I was only able to tab the entire side of the stringers on all side. The corners of the ski locker have up to 52oz of glass laid, so I'm thinking strength wise I'm good. For covering the top I'll either keep trying to wrestle with covering the top with some 6oz glass, or just getting some epoxy over the top and not worrying, as the PB will cover that part anyway when I lay the deck.


I expanded the 17oz that holds the outside of the stringers in, up to the entire inside of the hull (as shown) just about up to where the deck will be PB'd down, wanted to add some strength and bulk to the flat hull areas. Perhaps it's overkill at thing point.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Maybe there's something to be said about the width. I used this method on both 3/4" and 5/8" thicknesses and it worked great. Really have to keep after it though, and use a ton of those cheapo clamps. Keep working the plastic down to remove air bubbles.

 

[kcon]

Been pretty busy, but here's what I was able to get done since my last post.

Epoxied 2 layers of 6oz on the bottom of the 1/2 inch marine grade ply deck, I'm thinking for the top I'll tab it in with 6" of 17oz all around then lay the top with one layer of 6oz.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Looking good.

 

[gm280]

kcon, you are doing some very nice work. Looks great. I love to see others and how they do things. Your boat will be solid as a rock for longer then you will want her. :thumb:

 

[kcon]

Thanks much! I've certainly gained confidence on how/what to do from lurking others threads here for a while, and of course all the helpful posts! Hopefully I can get this thing in the water before the end of August. Next is put the deck in, seal it up, flip the hull, repair/fair/paint, cosmetic fixes to the top cap + paint, then rig er up!

 

[kcon]

Question! What's a good quality yet reasonably affordable carpet product, preferably available on here on iBoats? I got a sample of o****** daystar/malibu and between the sample and reviews, wasn't impressed enough to invest. I'd like something I can trust to last at least a few seasons...

-edit-
lol didn't know it censored the competitions name, can't blame it though cause the product was garbage!

 

[gm280]

Question! What's a good quality yet reasonably affordable carpet product, preferably available on here on iBoats? I got a sample of o****** daystar/malibu and between the sample and reviews, wasn't impressed enough to invest. I'd like something I can trust to last at least a few seasons...

-edit-
lol didn't know it censored the competitions name, can't blame it though cause the product was garbage!

Not sure what manufacture the carpet is that is available here on iboats, but I have never heard anybody complain about it. Maybe you should look into it. I have already used a marine grade carpet from another dealer and will stick with them just to have the colors and weight match. Had I known about the carpet here on iboats, I probably would have gone that route. You do know you get a discount being an iboats member don't you? Check them out!

Oh and I clicked (subscribed) to follow your progress on this thread if that is okay with you. :noidea:

 

[kcon]

Thanks! I'll buy from here.

Thanks for subscribing, here's to hoping I don't let you, and myself down, and I can get it done before it starts to snow lol

 

[kcon]

Question for the bonding experts! I've decided (after the fact unfortunately) that the one below deck compartment that I didn't create an access hatch for I would like to fill with foam, in order to do so I need to expand the plumbing between the bulkheads and seal it in.

(Older pic with less progress shown, only clear picture I had of the bulkheads on hand)



I suppose it would be easiest for me to use PVC here as I can cut it in half and just put it over the existing stainless steel drains and PB it in. From what I've read the best way to get a good epoxy bond to PVC is to use standard PVC cleaner and adhesive, the PVC adhesive acting as a primer for the epoxy. Does that seem like a good route to go here?





In other news here's an up to date picture of what will be the bottom of my deck, cutting off the excess glass, like everything else with a full restoration, sure was a joy... I guess being able to see the wood clearly through it means I did a great job

 

[Woodonglass]

I totally agree with your PVC plan.Heck you could just duct tape it down and pour the foam. Once the foam is in it won't go anywhere. Bottom of the deck looks like some good glassin' to me.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I like your idea, however simply glassing over the pvc will also seal the water into the channel. I like that you want to contain the water to the channel not letting it come in contact with the foam.

I agree with WOG, looks like some great glassing work.

 

[kcon]

Well I was planning on just using thickened epoxy (WS - 105,206,404) to seal up the edges of the PVC and essentially lock it in, but maybe you're on to something there, might as well just glass it in for a guaranteed permanent seal - I wouldn't even really need to bond to the PVC then, although I will prep the PVC properly anyway.

 

[kcon]

While I've got your attention lol, I have a question regarding below deck sealing - I have some TotalBoat TotalBilge 1 part epoxy bilge paint, The intent was to use said paint to coat the storage hatches and the inside of the bilge / transom. Does it make sense to just coat the entire under deck area (besides the places I'll be applying structural epoxy when sealing the deck) such as between bulkheads and where I intend to pour foam, just to further ensure I total water tight seal in that foam compartment?