Re: 1980 Sea Nymph SS 165 Rebuild
hmmm! i just think that many hours of chop and rock and roll with the floor able to move ever so slightly fore and aft and laterally, the .090 metal of the ribs will eventually auger or wallow out to allow the screws to maybe pull out. as an example, take just the flooring and run your 3in screws down through so they become miniture legs, supporting the board approximately 2 plus inches above the floor. if u drilled the holes slightly undersize, the tension of the threads in the wood holdls the screws ridged against lateral motion in any direction. if attaching the floor to another structure, then the holes have to be large enough to allow the screws to spin in the wood to assure tightening the screw enough to hold tension to the other structure. now, place the 2in foam between the floor and the cross ribs. even with the foam glued to the floor, the foam has no lateral support for the screw shanks. the saving grace is the fact that u have dozens of rows of screws so that hopefully, drawing then tight will have enough friction against the cross pieces to prevent the foam from shifting, and allowing the screws to be tilted in any direction. i love your approach and will probably use it with the exception of cutting the 2in foam into 11in wide sectons so that they can be glued to the bottom of the floor but in between the cross pieces to allow the wood to be connected to the metal cross pieces. in fact, adding another layer to the bottom of the floor instead of placing the slices in the bildge. then cleaning out the boat each year will entail only removing the screws and lifting out the floor with all the foam attached. hopefully, this would allow enough ventilation to prevent the trapped water issue that plagued the poured foam.
4 weeks, I'll never get all my wood cut by then.
