1978 SS 16 restoration

[SHSU]

Steel 2000, from Fasco? I used the steelflex on mine and very happy. Opted not to use the superslick as I decided to use starboard on my bunks. It is slick enough as is and will admit I have almost dropped the boat on the ramp because of it.

SHSU

 

[Sharpie223]

That red color looks awesome. Maybe I missed it, but are you also going to paint the outside sides red or a different color?

 

[Siva283]

Steel 2000, from Fasco? I used the steelflex on mine and very happy. Opted not to use the superslick as I decided to use starboard on my bunks. It is slick enough as is and will admit I have almost dropped the boat on the ramp because of it.

SHSU

Yup that's the stuff steel 2000 I'd have to look it's been a bit but I think I used the super slick. I'd have to look to see what it was I got.

I checked it is the super slick that I used.

 

[Siva283]

That red color looks awesome. Maybe I missed it, but are you also going to paint the outside sides red or a different color?

The outside is going to be a gray color. The bottom is red and the nose will be red. But the sides will be gray. There will be some gray trim. I have the StarCraft logo in red to put on. The registration numbers will be red as well. I'll be doing the name in red as well once I figure out what it's name is gonna be. So basically a red and light gray color scheme

 

[Siva283]

I am struggling a little with the design of my consoles. I want to use the stock windsheild. But I dont know if I want them to be tradistion old style boxes with the steering wheel straight up and down. If I want to angle them at the top kinda like stock to put the wheel at a 45.
Whats the hive mind here think. What would your ideal consoles look like. The limititations are they need to be able to be built out of wood and use basic process. I dont have steam boxes and such to make the wood bend or anything I have saws and a planer to work with. I am not against buying more tools cause what guy doesnt love more tools. I have a ton but they are all focuses around metal work. I have a small fear of wood. With metal I can weld it back together and try again. With the dead tree carcus not so much

 

[MNhunter1]

I'd stay with the existing console layout and not adjust any of the fundamental design. Much if it ties into the overall structural integrity of the hull. Any modifications starts messing with windshield alignment and has a tendency to domino into issues that might need to be addressed. All a matter of how much time/effort you want to put into. At the end of the day when you're out on the water, is it really going to matter? Nice to be able to use the existing wood for new templates, and you can always add an angled bezel to the steering wheel if you want to change the angle. I'm on my 3rd rebuild, and I find it so much easier to stick with the original layout when it comes to the over all structure or anything tying into the hull (splashwell, side panels, consoles, gunnels, etc.).

 

[Siva283]

I'd stay with the existing console layout and not adjust any of the fundamental design. Much if it ties into the overall structural integrity of the hull. Any modifications starts messing with windshield alignment and has a tendency to domino into issues that might need to be addressed. All a matter of how much time/effort you want to put into. At the end of the day when you're out on the water, is it really going to matter? Nice to be able to use the existing wood for new templates, and you can always add an angled bezel to the steering wheel if you want to change the angle. I'm on my 3rd rebuild, and I find it so much easier to stick with the original layout when it comes to the over all structure or anything tying into the hull (splashwell, side panels, consoles, gunnels, etc.).

I am not changing the layout. I am keeping 2 side consoles. But my fuel tank that I thought would fit perfectly under the passenger console is a half an inch to big so I am building them slightly bigger.
As far as structural integrity this was a complete tear down. %90 of the rivits replaced. Used some aluminim to reenforce here and there and the entire area under my floor has been pour foamed.
My structural integrity is probably better than when it came out of the factory.
My factory consoles were also aluminum not wood and flimsy they added nothing to the structural integrity. To continue to use the exiting windsheild only means I need to maintain hieght and possibly a very slight slope.
What they look like matters none to the water but considering I just spent thousands rebuilding and restoring a boat yes I want it to be visually appealling to me.

 

[MNhunter1]

The factory consoles are tied into the gunnels and deck. I think you will find that they do provide a lot of structural integrity when combined with the wood panels on the console fronts and windshield. This is why it is always recommended to ensure your are engineering some additional support whenever someone inqures about removing the consoles, converting to single side console, etc. I have attached a few pictures from my '78 16SS. Only modification I made was to add the front casting deck. Not sure on where you are needing the additional 1/2" for the tank (height/width/depth?), but they might help you visualize some options.

 

[Siva283]

The factory consoles are tied into the gunnels and deck. I think you will find that they do provide a lot of structural integrity when combined with the wood panels on the console fronts and windshield. This is why it is always recommended to ensure your are engineering some additional support whenever someone inqures about removing the consoles, converting to single side console, etc. I have attached a few pictures from my '78 16SS. Only modification I made was to add the front casting deck. Not sure on where you are needing the additional 1/2" for the tank (height/width/depth?), but they might help you visualize some options.

View attachment 374442View attachment 374443View attachment 374444View attachment 374445View attachment 374446View attachment 374447View attachment 374448View attachment 374449

See theres the thing though. I didnt say I was removing them or fundamentally changing them. I am actually rebuilding them out of a stronger material. And the changed I am making are cosmetic so that argument really doesnt hold water.
I like the dual side consoles. I am not a fan of center consoles. But I am rebuilding them for the reasons I stated before.
I was simply asking a question about aesthetics.
Now I dont mind and actually like constructive criticism its how we learn. But you made an assumption and I have no idea how you came to it.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program.

Still open to opinions on the aesthetics. Yes my mind is made up these consoles are being rebuilt from scratch.
They are going back in the same places with just a slightly bigger foot print to accomodate my fuel tank and to keep them symetrical. They will be built out of 3\4 inch oak ply so considerably stronger than what was there.

For those that may not have followed. Safety has been the number one goal of this build I have kids on this boat alot so I have went way way overboard on safety. And I have stiffened the boat up orders of magnitude over how it was when I got it.

 

[MNhunter1]

You asked for feedback. I provided it. I apologize if it wasn't to your liking.

 

[Siva283]

You asked for feedback. I provided it. I apologize if it wasn't to your liking.

Yes I did on the looks of something. Thats the only thing you didnt give. Then you went to structural integrity and fundamentally changing things. Which if you read the post it never said that I was doing that. It said that I was rebuilding them from scratch

 

[Sharpie223]

You'll probably have to mock something up to see how you like it. I would have two (minor) concerns with angling the wheel, and neither may actually matter. My understanding is that you would tilt the wheel so that the top is closer to the bow than the bottom.
First thought, if you tilt the whole dash, will it increase glare from the sun on instrumentation? Maybe it could actually reduce it though, if tilted so that it faces the driver directly?
Second thought, would tilting the wheel make steering anymore difficult or annoying? If it was far enough it might require a longer arm movement to steer, reducing ability to react, or possibly just causing fatigue sooner?

Either way, I'm interested in what you come up with. I'd like to make mine look updated as well, though that will likely just be how I finish it.

 

[Siva283]

You'll probably have to mock something up to see how you like it. I would have two (minor) concerns with angling the wheel, and neither may actually matter. My understanding is that you would tilt the wheel so that the top is closer to the bow than the bottom.
First thought, if you tilt the whole dash, will it increase glare from the sun on instrumentation? Maybe it could actually reduce it though, if tilted so that it faces the driver directly?
Second thought, would tilting the wheel make steering anymore difficult or annoying? If it was far enough it might require a longer arm movement to steer, reducing ability to react, or possibly just causing fatigue sooner?

Either way, I'm interested in what you come up with. I'd like to make mine look updated as well, though that will likely just be how I finish it.

It came from the factory with the wheel tilted at a 45 and as far as I know never had gauges. I am adding the gauges they will be on top with about a 30 degree tilt towards the driver maybe more.
The wheel I am torn between the factory 45 degree tilt or the traditional 90 degrees from the floor
Either way will make no difference with steering. I am replacing it anyway I am undecided between standard cable steer or going hydraulic. I'm leaning towards the cable though with a 75hp I don't know it hydraulic is worth it and adds more points of failure.

I'll probably mock something out of cardboard to see it

 

[Moserkr]

Since it sounds like you are rebuilding the metal consoles, you could tilt the steering mount and gauges panel up even move than 45*. The steering wheel does sit quite low and seeing as Im average height, its very low for a tall person! Raising up the windshield would be a huge undertaking. You could raise the gauge/steering mount (wood or remake out of metal) without raising the windshield or console too. It would just eat up some of the unusable window view.

 

[Siva283]

Since it sounds like you are rebuilding the metal consoles, you could tilt the steering mount and gauges panel up even move than 45*. The steering wheel does sit quite low and seeing as Im average height, its very low for a tall person! Raising up the windshield would be a huge undertaking. You could raise the gauge/steering mount (wood or remake out of metal) without raising the windshield or console too. It would just eat up some of the unusable window view.

I'm actually rebuilding them out of wood. I'm tall too but I'm not raising the height I'm increasing the foot print slightly.
I'm putting a ss 5 spoke steering wheel on it. Just not sure what angle I want. The gauges are figured out the will ba angled towards me and raised on top the dash. I'm making a gauge pod.
My biggest issue is to angle the steering wheel or go the traditional 90 degrees to the floor.

 

[redneck joe]

I had a 90 degree on my 26 carver and really liked it caveat is there was plenty of room sitting (knees) and I spent most of my time standing, cruising about25-32 mph in nice water. Making sharp turns takes multiple turns of the wheel and at 90 it takes more effort imo. On an SS, 16', i'd be mindful of the smaller space and assume you will be sitting more than not. Of course you will be setting your seats where you want them so that helps. My 'new' 18' MY appears to be 30 degrees, have not had on the water but when sitting in it making vroom vroom noises it feels very comfortable. In my mind, 45 would be like driving with your tilt wheel up in your car driving like a trucker.

my 2 pesos input.

 

[Siva283]

I had a 90 degree on my 26 carver and really liked it caveat is there was plenty of room sitting (knees) and I spent most of my time standing, cruising about25-32 mph in nice water. Making sharp turns takes multiple turns of the wheel and at 90 it takes more effort imo. On an SS, 16', i'd be mindful of the smaller space and assume you will be sitting more than not. Of course you will be setting your seats where you want them so that helps. My 'new' 18' MY appears to be 30 degrees, have not had on the water but when sitting in it making vroom vroom noises it feels very comfortable. In my mind, 45 would be like driving with your tilt wheel up in your car driving like a trucker.

my 2 pesos input.

That is good info. I have done seats not the ones I am using but I can put them in place.
It's a 13 inch wheel but you point out some things I didn't think about. Hmmmm now you have me thinking again

 

[Sharpie223]

You could probably make a tilt wheel without too much work...

 

[Siva283]

You could probably make a tilt wheel without too much work...

I don't think I want to get that far into it. Though it's a great idea

 

[Siva283]

I actually found a tradition wooden style wheel last night made out of Aluminum anodized black so I think that helps in my decision and I am going to try to mount it at a 90 to the floor. Solely for looks. I only have a 75hp and eventually am going to a 90hp 4 stroke so it shouldnt be an issue