1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

[BonairII]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

I like the cooler under the deck. I was going to do the same thing on my boat, but don't have the space to fit a decent sized cooler(unless I completely redesigned my splash well).

 

[boatnut74]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Your resto is looking good. Your moving right along.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Looking fantastic - you are moving fast! Tell me more about this "rusto deck guard" - Your non-skid surface looks great... (factory)

Thanks, I tested the deck armor out in my dogs kennel floor last year and Rusto has a lifetime warranty on the product but they say that it will hold up to foot traffic on a home deck for 8 years. I for sure didn't want carpet ever again and vinyl seemed too fragile not to mention difficult to repair if torn. I decided to try out the Rusto restore liquid deck armor which cost me about $80 for a 4 gal bucket and in like 20 colors. You can check it out at the home depot, they even have some samples on a board too.

I know this hasn't been done before on the forums so I'm taking a risk but the low cost, choice of colors, ease of application and high durability swayed me into giving it a try.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Whelp, now I'm going to do my house's deck using that Restore stuff!

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Thanks for the info... I'm going to do some looking into it... If I can be applied over epoxy and bind well to it, I may follow suit..

Right now, I have a bunch of leftover 6 oz cloth (from days as a glasser thug) that i was going to use with epoxy for a waterproof, non-skid surface... However, I am probably going to have to order another gallon of epoxy to do that, which is about the same cost as your non-skid stuff up there...

Anyway, sorry if this is a hijack - just intrigued by the "new method" that has surface here on the dry dock... It looks like a great - non-skid surface...

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

No problem, this is what the forum is all about, exchanging ideas and thoughts. I don't think the rusto armor would work on top of epoxy since it has to bond with the wood so I think that would be a barrier for it.

Ok, now for a bit of a rant...

I know this will be controversial here to say the least but wood is a natural living breathing thing. I was going to do the epoxy coat like I've read here so many times until that is I started seeing all the threads where people are drilling holes in it to find rotten wood inside. I think if you encase the wood in epoxy/resin when the wood say has 80 - 90% humidity form the surrounding air inside it, then it has no way to breath out this moisture. Now add this to it, I just screwed in nearly 150 Sharx screws into my decking, all of which will allow water to enter the wood. If it had no way to ever dry out, then it will surely rot. (I know glass boats have to do the wood and resin for the stringers and such below deck.)

I used the Rusto restore stain on the bottom of my decking to protect it but not seal it. The lower decking areas that are not visible and are under the top decks which will hold the gas tank, batteries and other wet items are also stained and then sealed up with 2 coats of Helmsman spar just on the tops. Bottom line is none of my decking will be unable to breath out moisture, the Rusto deck armor is also not a sealant and will allow the wood to dry naturally. Now consider the expensive epoxy is also only as good as what you put over the top of it since UV will destroy it so your back to paint or a covering to keep the wood dry.


There I said it, now let the arrows fly!

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

I don't know nearly enough about this to debate it... I'm sure some will come along to chime in and my prediction is that your thread is going to grow (like a living, breathing thing) from 6 to 12 pages in about 2-3 days.

Out of curiosity and nothing more, I do have a question (not arguing, just a question): I can see how a "tree" is a living, breathing thing.. However, a piece of wood is a factory-processed (dried and glued) plank... Given that, does it really have the exact same humidity as the ambient air?


P.S. Bayliner boats are some of the most notorious "rotters" on the planet, so that might come up in conversation as well.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

GGGGGGEEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTT EEEEEEEMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!

:ban::ban::ban::ban::ban::ban:

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Kidding dood, just kidding!:cheerful:

I think we have heard the "breathing" argument here before, not very much though.

Here's a quick way to test that theory...

Take two chunks of ply, one all sealed up with 5 coats of super yummy epoxy and SS screws bedded in 5200. Take another chunk of ply, bare, unsealed, screws driven in sans sealant.

Dunk em both in a bucket of water and let em marinade over night. Take em both out and let em "dry". Repeat that process for a few weeks/months and I'm sure the results will be clear.

The unsealed wood will delaminate and water will penetrate/soak where the screws are sunk in.

The sealed wood will give up the ghost eventually but I'm betting it'll be waaaaaaaayyyyyyy after the unsealed piece has turned to mulch.

:argue::argue:

Kidding dood, I kid!:watermelon:

P.S. Bayliner boats are some of the most notorious "rotters" on the planet, so that might come up in conversation as well.

Psssst, I thought about bring that up, it just seemed too easy. Glad you mentioned it:becky:

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Well, I see it like this. $89 for deck armor, and roughly $125 for the ply, $25 for rivets/screws. So lets call it $250. Assuming you keep it out of the rain and covered, including letting it dry out after use.... Even if the coating is a complete failure, you will get at least 2 seasons IMO, and learn that it wasn't the best product to use. On the + side, you may have found a cost effective deck coating that is easier to put down than epoxy and that incorporates a "non-slip" coating. IF and that is a big if , I were to do a tinny, I would consider going the route you did. Hopefully down the road we can get some long term testing results from you.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Yes all wood products suck up surrounding moisture (hygroscopic) from the environment.

Wow I didn't realize you were able to add sealant to both side of those screws, a scant 300 dobs of 5200 on a small tinny like mine and that's only the bottom decking!

Seriously, there is no sure way to seal water out of anything wood given time water will ruin anything so it boils down to neglect and abuse which I would imagine is part of Bayliner's problem as well. So rather than fight the nature of things I'm choosing not to spend double the amount on fighting it.

I remember a rainy day fishing trip I took a buddy on, he pulls up and my boat is still tarped but hooked up to the truck and ready to go. He has this funny look on his face and asks why the boat is all covered up. I replied because it's raining. he replies "what? it's a damn boat and is supposed to be wet." I said when you get a boat, you can keep it wet for as long as you want to.

My old decking had 10 years on it and nothing else but carpet glued down on it. The plywood was also regular AT 4 layer 3/4" and was in great shape other than cracked in some thin spots where the cut outs are for the hatches. I could buy some composite decking material and never ever have to worry about rot but it would be worth more than the rest of the boat!

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

My whole purpose for starting this decking conversation was just to bring attention to what I see as another acceptable easy option for a nice looking low cost way to protect and cover the deck on an older aluminum fishing boat. I also like to stir up trouble when I can...:lol: :boink:

Anyway it's done, future resto's can make up their minds.

So all I got done today after work was some sanding on the hatch for the cooler so it would clear well when opening. More stain and armor on decking.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Some work finished after work this week. I got my tell tale "pee hole" put in my old motor that wasn't equipped with one. Many thanks to iwombat's thread in motor FAQ's - http://forums.iboats.com/engine-freq...le-222677.html

You can see the OEM Johnson pee hole fitting in the lower left of the bottom cowl.

I also managed to get all of the top decking armored and now I'm tearing into the hatch lids. I also got the pathetic dash in and OMC controls.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

PT130 TnT installed and all wired in.

Battery management, I hate stacks of wires all on the 2 posts with wing nuts, check out this solution. Now I can use the lead posts solely for the motor and the Johnny Ray power terminals take all the accessories.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

You are flying through this. Awesome.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

I've been waiting for this milestone, the Johnson back on and running like a top.

The new tale tell works awesome too. Gives me piece of mind.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

CONGRATS! Overall everything looks great, good job. Lake test coming soon?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Looks awesome!

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

CONGRATS! Overall everything looks great, good job. Lake test coming soon?

Thanks you guys for the replies, my target date for the lake test is May 1, just hope the weather is nice for it. I actually plan on splashing in the mighty Columbia River, the river I grew up on that holds every fish from bass to chinook salmon. I can see the finish line now and it feels good, it's been a up and down adventure for the past 10 weeks.

 

[train]

Re: 1978 Sea Nymph SS160 resto

Waterman, at the rate you're going, May 1st should be no problem!
The boat looks awesome!