1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[bonz_d]

gm, just catching up as it's been a while. You've come a long way these past few months. Great job. And thanks for the well wishes. It's really appreciated my friend.

 

[gm280]

Ha bonz_d, I guess it seems like a lot of progress but sometimes it seems to drag like there is nothing getting accomplished. But I carry on anyway. You're always welcome on any of my threads.

Today I have great plans to take the JP202 Primer back to the PPG store and have them shake up the can for about 5 minutes or so. Then, if the weather permits, I will try to get at least one nice coat of primer shot on the hull. That would allow me to start the laborious process of block sanding. But at least that would be a huge step towards painting it too. :dance:

Then after shooting the primer, I think I have to open up the Kohler Command 15 HP lawn mower engine. Seems the governor has quit and it revs too high and sounds like it is going to blow up. So after watching a few videos about that engine, seems others have had the same things happen to their Kohler engines. And it is a simple fix or even replace such a part. But it is the effort to get to that part that is the issue. But since our lawn isn't stopping growing yet, I really have no choice. Life takes over plans once again.

 

[gomopar440]

I just read through this entire thread last night. It's come a long way since you first picked it up and looks like you've got it well on it's way to becoming a great fishing little fishing boat.

 

[gm280]

Okay some good news and some bad. First the good.

I did take the JP202 primer back and asked them to shake it up. They laughed a little and stated that it is very hard mixing the primer up by hand because of the high build particles settling out on the bottom. I told then I tried for about 5 minutes and made the decision it can't be done. Well not in any reasonable time with out spill it all over. The settled out part was like taffy. And a mere mixing stick was never going to get it mixed. I was actually bending the mixing stick to even move it around. So they took it and shook it and all was well then.

And I actually did get the hull primed. eace: :high5: :applause: :cheer2:


See it, it is all one flat color now.

And a straight on shot from the bow.

A side shot.

And the transom.

And yet another transom side shot just to prove I did get it primed. And that is the good news...

Now for the bad news. Remember the pin holes I was talking about? And how I was filling them along the way and feathering them out, and then decided that the 2K high build primer probably would fill them in. Well I was wrong! :blue: :cold: :violin:

Not only did the 2K crystallized primer not fill them in, it made them stick out like a sore thumb.




So now I get to spot fill them and sand them out. Yeah Me!

But at least I can see everything I need to spot fill now and make look good. One step forward, two steps back. :facepalm:

Until next update, you all have a great day! I now have my work cut out for me....again!

 

[sphelps]

You can take a little of the primer and use a bondo spreader to fill in the pin holes ... Might take a couple of passes but it works well ...
Our resident ol okie taught me that trick ...
Still looks great !

 

[Decker83]

Primer looks great.. Just think of it as the first guide coat.. Plus one on what sphelps said..

 

[nurseman]

Looking good gm! The bondo spreader trick works pretty good...

 

[gm280]

I do like the idea of spreading the primer using the Bondo or body filler spreaders. I have a few such spreaders from other projects and if I mix up a little primer with the hardener and use a spreader to squeeze the primer into those pin hole, that just might work. Thanks everybody for that bit of info. I'll post how that works out. :thumb:

 

[Patfromny]

You might have to do it a couple times but that sounds like the way to go gm. Good luck

 

[gm280]

You might have to do it a couple times but that sounds like the way to go gm. Good luck

Oh I am very familiar with block sanding things like this. You sand a little, see a low area, and fill. Then sand another area, see more low areas and fill. Guide coat usually helps with those thing. So I know I will be at this stage for a while. But once you get it all to one smooth surface, then the paint comes next. But usually by the time you start shooting paint, that is all there is left to do. Prep work is always the longest process, but only if you want a pretty nice painted finish. JMHO

 

[gm280]

Well I don't have any update because I didn't touch the hull in the last few days. Why, you may ask?

Because the last time cutting the lawn, the mower started to run wild. The engine was screaming wildly unless I was cutting. If I stopped the blades, it screamed out of control. So brainiac looked over the governor area thinking the governor spring broke. No it was intact. So went to the net. I watched a few videos issues that were the same with my engine and everyone was a bad governor inside the crankcase.

Out comes the tools and engine comes off the mower. I open it up the engine and WALA no problems with the governor what so ever. That threw me for a loop. What would cause the engine to go wild with the RPMs? And I started to look at the carb now. Yea I know, I should have looked at the carb first. But I was so sure it was the typical governor issue I've seen on the videos.

Well low and behold the governor hard wire was not attached to the carb anymore. And that allows the throttle spring to pull the carb wide open.

But wait, there's more.

The little arm that the governor hard wire attaches to is missing, gone, not there anymore.

SO, I started looking for a replacement part. Not going to happen folks. I checks the carb break down and got the part number for the assembly, but it is NO LONGER AVAILABLE. I went to at least ten small parts places and everyone had those same words. If they still had such a part, it would have been less ten $5 dollars. But NO, NLA was the rule of the day.

I started thinking, yea that is another bad thing, how do I get this carb working properly again? And it hit me, make the part.

This part is merely a half an inch in size and it does three things.

First, it controls the throttle plate.
B, it has to hit a stop when it is at wide open position.
3, it has to be able to be adjusted via a low speed idle stop screw.

I started making little poster board templates and trying them out on the carb. After four or five tries, I got something close enough to make out of metal. And I did make one out of metal, and honestly it looks like the original part as well. I rebuilt the carb and attached the newly made part and it actually runs amazingly nice too.

So boat work can now resume again. Always something interesting in life daily. :thumb:

Oh yea, I did look over the yard for the little part before moving on. Even with a metal detector. But I will find it one day when I don't have the mower anymore. :facepalm:

 

[Patfromny]

You'll find it laying on the hull right next to the pin holes you have to fill. Lol

 

[gm280]

You'll find it laying on the hull right next to the pin holes you have to fill. Lol

You are probably right. Actually I think it went with the lost tools to the never never land where lost tools, carb parts, springs that fly away and socks go... ound:

 

[Patfromny]

You are probably right. Actually I think it went with the lost tools to the never never land where lost tools, carb parts, springs that fly away and socks go... ound:

I wish I knew where all my 9/16 wrenches go. Lol. I have bought so many of those. I keep 4 in the drawer just to make sure. That and the 5/16 sockets. I am the type to put them away as soon as I'm done with them too. Sometimes before I'm done using them so I can't understand where they all go. Thinking of installing a sensor like at stores that rings when the tool leaves the garage.

 

[gm280]

I wish I knew where all my 9/16 wrenches go. Lol. I have bought so many of those. I keep 4 in the drawer just to make sure. That and the 5/16 sockets. I am the type to put them away as soon as I'm done with them too. Sometimes before I'm done using them so I can't understand where they all go. Thinking of installing a sensor like at stores that rings when the tool leaves the garage.

I have accure so many wrenches and sockets over the years that I really need to "blue light" some of them that will never ever get used. Duplicates upon duplicates just sit there and really needs to leave. Having only two hands I don't see a need for four or more sets of wrenches of the exact same type. And you're probably wondering how I came about so many similar wrenches. I buy a lot of wrenches off EBay and to get a couple wrenches or sockets I needed, I buy the set. And over the years I filled all the empty slots in the drawers with sockets and flat, combination wrenches. So I have a lot of duplicates now. And even though there are better wrenches, nearly all mine are Craftsman. Craftsman once were the standard. But they too have gone to lowest bidder to produce and has taken them down a lot. Use to be there were no plastic parts in any of their ratchets, now there is.

Oh well, life goes on. :thumb:

 

[Patfromny]

Shame about tool quality really. All my stuff is craftsman from the 70s and 80s. They were the best for the money. I have taken some of my duplicates and added them to my different tool boxes. I leave a few small wrenches in my electrical box. 7/16 is good for cable wire. I have a set of wrenches and sockets in my general contractor bag and a set of wrenches in my plumbing bag. It's nice to not have to go downstairs to my tool box for a wrench, or remeber to unload the tools needed for a job I might be doing that week.

 

[gm280]

Well today I did try that primer application via a chip brush and spreader. And I was pretty pleased with the out come. There is about a two minute learning curve but it does seem to fill in about 80% of the holes. Sanding comes next followed with another application of primer via chip brush and spreader. Of course there are LOTS of pin holes all over his hull. But I think I can make it look better and fill in those pin holes to make the finish paint come out great. :noidea:

I'll post picture when I get some ready. But I didn't take any today. It was more of an experiment try then actual effort. But it seems to work so I will move forward again.

 

[gm280]

I hope today to do some sanding to see what I've got. And since hurricane Matthew really never amounted to much in middle Georgia other then some wind, I think I can get to the boat today. The sun is shinning presently and once I cut the lawn, I should be able to work on the boat. Hope to post pictures later on. :thumb:

 

[gm280]

O k a y, I a m t y p i n g r e a l s l o w b e c a u s e m y a r m s t i r e d.

I did start the long board sanding today and I have to say, my arms are tired now and I know I will certainly feel it in the morning too in my hand, arms and shoulders. Been a while since I block sanded anything. And since I am doing this by arm-strong effort and not pneumatic or electricity, it is a lot of tiring effort. I also took some picture to show what you can see when doing such sanding.

No, the hull didn't caught some leprosy or any thing like that. It is the first long board sanding after the first primer coat.
You can easily see the high areas and low areas. And that is exactly what you want as well. Now I can fill in the lower areas and do it again until I get everything sanded without coming across highs and lows. After a few fills, then I switch to guide coat and start sanding with 400 or 600 grit. And once all the guide coat is sanded off without any highs propping through, it is ready for paint. It is a long process, but will certainly look very nice when painted.

When doing this sanding, some areas don't even get sanded because they are so low to the high areas. We are not talking inches or even 1/8" low areas. We are talking mere thousandth of an inch low areas. So between filler material and high build primer, it will come together.

In this picture you can see the cross hatch sanding. Never sand up and down or cross ways. Those will leave gouges from the long board sander edges that would then have to be filled in and sanded out again. You always go diagonally sanding in both directions. Another thing you never ever do, you never sand with your hand and fingers. If you do that you will leave finger groves in the primer. You can use the palm of your hand, but never fingers.

Another area that easily shows the diagonal sanding effort. It takes a little getting use to sanding this way, but after a short time it becomes simple and really cuts fast too.

You can see the side area that is sanded ready for the next filler and primer coats. There are three areas shown. First the high areas in the very little looking material. The second is the lighter gray and the third is the areas that didn't even get touched yet with the sanding effort. Those are the lowest areas.

The actual very bottom section didn't come out too bad. It has a few areas, but all in all, it is not too far from ready. I still have the mid side area to sand yet. But my arms said STOP for today. I haven't even started with the center bottom section yet. So you can see there is a lot of sanding to do yet.

I will say one thing though, this PPG JP202 catalyzed high build primer is extremely easy to sand and it honestly doesn't plug the paper even a little bit. I sand for a minute or so (until my arm says swap sides), then take the compressed air hose and blow off all the primer material off the sandpaper. It cleans back to like new again. So one piece of sand paper goes a long ways. This initial sanding is with 80 grit paper. Follow on sandings will be with 180, then 220, 280, 320, 400 and so on.

Maybe this will help some one that has never done this before. :noidea:

 

[gm280]

I did a little more sanding to day, but it didn't take long for that to get tiresome and I stopped. We still hit 90 degrees today and I had enough of the sweat. So tomorrow maybe some more with pictures.