1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Hey Jas I am looking at your pictures and trying to figure out if you are trying to weld two pieces of steel together or is it aluminum. if its steel I don't think that will work will it as I thought it was only for aluminum:confused:

Yup, all aluminum stuff there though it does sorta look like steel in the photos eh!
 

v8mgbal

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 14, 2010
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

yep pictures sure fooled me as they look rusty. anyway it sux that it dosen't work like they show in the video:mad:
 

Huron Angler

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Well I wouldn't say it was from a lack of effort on your part. Does it say anything about a cure time?

They showed them trying to drill into it on the videos, did you try that at all? I wonder if any of the claims are accurate.
 

Alpheus

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I have used this stuff with success. You have to keep the rod out of the flame. Heat the part and put the rod on the heat spot and rub it. The rod should start to melt. If not add more heat and repeat until the rod starts to melt and continue the bead. It takes allot of heat. Looks like youre just melting the rod and dripping it in the gap. That doesn't work cuz the stuff cools as soon as it hits the part and has zero penetration...
 

mark1961

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Its also essential to make sure everything is VERY clean. It appears to be reasonably thick scrap you are using there, are you sure you are getting enough heat into it with that torch? Try it out on new/thinner scrap if possible and see how that goes. There is also a fine line between too much/not enough heat when welding aluminium, you need to apply/remove the torch constantly as you go, one of the more difficult welding techniques for a novice to master imo, especially so with gas.

Keep at it, you will get there with more practice.
 

fishrdan

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I've use Dura-Fix before, it's just,,, OK.

Did you brush all the surfaces with (a new) SS brush, tin the parts, brush with the SS brush again while it's molten, then braze?

I brazed a couple galvanized steel nuts onto aluminum with Dura-Fix, I thought that was pretty cool.
 

tomynoks

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I have never used dura fix...but it sounds like similar to brazing steel.. put the rod in the gap..use a small circular motion with the flame, when the rod starts to melt, move both rod and flame in unison (rod steady, flame in small circular motion)..forming the bead as you go. Good thing everyone is alwaya an expert when giving advice huh?? lol.. I hope it works out for you!!
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Well I wouldn't say it was from a lack of effort on your part. Does it say anything about a cure time?

They showed them trying to drill into it on the videos, did you try that at all? I wonder if any of the claims are accurate.

I didn't try any drilling but I am betting those big lumps where it flowed with the gravity would hold up very well, no question there.

Yah, I let them cool to the touch.

I have used this stuff with success. You have to keep the rod out of the flame. Heat the part and put the rod on the heat spot and rub it. The rod should start to melt. If not add more heat and repeat until the rod starts to melt and continue the bead.

Yup, that is what I was adooin. Pretty much the only way it will work.

Its also essential to make sure everything is VERY clean. It appears to be reasonably thick scrap you are using there, are you sure you are getting enough heat into it with that torch? Try it out on new/thinner scrap if possible and see how that goes. There is also a fine line between too much/not enough heat when welding aluminium, you need to apply/remove the torch constantly as you go, one of the more difficult welding techniques for a novice to master imo, especially so with gas.

Keep at it, you will get there with more practice.

Well the first attempt was with pretty thin stuff. The others were a little thicker.

Yah, I was continuously moving the torch around waiting for that sweet spot where it would be hot enough to melt the rod.

I do think more practice will improve my technique, for sure.

I've use Dura-Fix before, it's just,,, OK.

Did you brush all the surfaces with (a new) SS brush, tin the parts, brush with the SS brush again while it's molten, then braze?

Nope, just cleaned up the alum with the SS brush where I was going to lay the bead. Nothing while it was molten.

I hope it works out for you!!

Well...

Initially/primarily the reason I bought the stuff was to fill the gaps on my trim aluminum and make it look purdy. No way that is going to happen. I can tell already that the rod will melt, follow gravity and run right down onto my deck making a giant mess. I am certain that I will end up making things look worse, not better.

Nah, not going to do that!

So, maybe this Dura Fix has it's applications and maybe my technique could use some work, but, I'll surely need to go a different route to fix up my trim there.

Maybe All Metal? Maybe JB Weld? Hmmmmm, we'll see.

Thanks fellas!!:D
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

By the way...

I did flip my transom and fill up all the holes with epoxy yesterday very early in the morning. Before I cashed out for the night I check on things. I could tell the wood was soaking it up as the epoxy was down some in each of the holes (thats good stuff). So I went back and topped them all off. Here is a shot for ya...
P1030970.jpg


I didn't bother laying down plastic on my basement floor as I told my self I wouldn't make a mess. Wrong! I have epoxy and PL all over the place now! Sheesh! Oh well.

So for now I'll just need to wait on things to fully cure. Then, I can do a light sand to level things out, ZC the alum, prime, paint.

Onward gents!:D
 

fshngho

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jas, what wood did you use for the transom? I looked back a few pages and did not find that info. I had planned on useing 3/4" oak plywood from Lowes that is 5 ply and it said for exterior use if prepared correctly, but someone on another thread said that was a no no.
Your transom is going in soon huh?:D
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I have epoxy all over my garage floor also. Dale, I used Arauco ply from Lowes for my transom. It was extremely nice stuff and practically void-free. I have read that it may be a somewhat softer wood but I figured it has to be better than the void-city sh!t I did my deck with.
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jas, what wood did you use for the transom? I looked back a few pages and did not find that info. I had planned on useing 3/4" oak plywood from Lowes that is 5 ply and it said for exterior use if prepared correctly, but someone on another thread said that was a no no.
Your transom is going in soon huh?:D

Yah, seems like I bought that stuff forever ago! That would be 3/4" marine plywood. I picked it up at Menards for about $70 each. You can take a look at about the post #660 range to see how I put mine together.

I have also heard that oak (red oak anyway) doesn't fair so well in the marine environment. I think exterior ply, marine ply or MDO would be just what the Dr. ordered for our rigs, eh!

I have epoxy all over my garage floor also. Dale, I used Arauco ply from Lowes for my transom. It was extremely nice stuff and practically void-free. I have read that it may be a somewhat softer wood but I figured it has to be better than the void-city sh!t I did my deck with.

Yah, I thought I was smart enough not to make a big mess - apparently not!

Never heard of Arauco ply - whats that??? Sounds like NASA makes it.
 

Golden Arrow II

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Arauco Ply is very nice exterior grade plywood and it has less voids in it than the marine grade I got at Sequins Lumber for $90 a sheet. I used 3/4" on the bow floor and the center section in the rear above the fuel tank. You can get it at Menards for around $30 a sheet for 1/2" if I remember right, If you wait I'm sure that it will go on sale and you can save "BIG MONEY." It is like furniture grade, but it is pine faced. I made a really nice looking cabinet for the garage with the left over scrap.
 

fishrdan

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Nope, just cleaned up the alum with the SS brush where I was going to lay the bead. Nothing while it was molten.

That's probably why it didn't bond well, need to brush the area being brazed a second time once the rod has been melted onto it and while the stuff is still melted, then braze it a final time. It's best to use a wood SS brush, the plastic ones melt :D Check out a couple youtube video's, they go into some good detail of how to use the rods.
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

You can get it at Menards for around $30 a sheet for 1/2" if I remember right, If you wait I'm sure that it will go on sale and you can save "BIG MONEY." It is like furniture grade, but it is pine faced. I made a really nice looking cabinet for the garage with the left over scrap.

Dude, I love saving big money at Menard's!

That's probably why it didn't bond well, need to brush the area being brazed a second time once the rod has been melted onto it and while the stuff is still melted, then braze it a final time. It's best to use a wood SS brush, the plastic ones melt :D Check out a couple youtube video's, they go into some good detail of how to use the rods.

Got it, maybe I'll give that a shot. I still can't see me using it on my trim though, too risky eh!
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Well, haven't got too much done in the past couple of days. It's bee super nice here in MI and I have been enjoying it while we still have it! Matter of fact I am getting out the tent and sleeping bags for one last camp out with the boys till next year.:) Campfire and smores are ready!:D

I have been just sorta cleaning up the transom a little here and there when I have a few minutes. I have big gobs of epoxy hanging off that needed to be hand filed down before I can sand. I am thinking I might have time to finish that up, paint and get er bolted in the rig by the end of the weekend. Hopefully.

Cheers!
 

tomynoks

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Messages
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

just to through my 2 cents.. I used Arauco ply... 23/32" (the NEW 3/4") it is 7 ply, ext grade, very few voids and plugs on only one side. For the transom, I screwed 2 layers together with 3M 5200 adhesive caulk.. had heard of a few others doing this before. The plywood runs $25-$30 a sheet at Home Depot or Lowes. I epoxied both sides with System 3 GP epoxy as well before painting. I think marine grade is over-rated, over-priced and you're going to seal it anyway right? I ran the boat for almost a year..... now re-doing the deck and the transom is solid and dry. I guess time will tell.
 

Azlo

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Very nice move on those aluminum reinforcements!! Now thats ingenuity.:)
 

djpeters

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Well, haven't got too much done in the past couple of days. It's bee super nice here in MI and I have been enjoying it while we still have it! Matter of fact I am getting out the tent and sleeping bags for one last camp out with the boys till next year.:) Campfire and smores are ready!:D

I have been just sorta cleaning up the transom a little here and there when I have a few minutes. I have big gobs of epoxy hanging off that needed to be hand filed down before I can sand. I am thinking I might have time to finish that up, paint and get er bolted in the rig by the end of the weekend. Hopefully.

Cheers!

Are you going to put anything on the inside of the transom skin before you put the wood in? Just curious.......
 

jasoutside

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Dec 20, 2009
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

just to through my 2 cents.. I used Arauco ply... 23/32" (the NEW 3/4") it is 7 ply, ext grade, very few voids and plugs on only one side.

I'll have to take a look at that stuff next time I am out, hmmmm.

Very nice move on those aluminum reinforcements!! Now thats ingenuity.:)

Thanks dude, yah it's bombproof:D

Are you going to put anything on the inside of the transom skin before you put the wood in? Just curious.......

Yah, it's all ZC, primed and painted up ready to go! (though I don't think that is necessary)

Cheers!
 
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