1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jeez, we don't go through all this carp with an OB.
But, don't forget to measure

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

OK Jason, i'll get you the measurements!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jeez, we don't go through all this carp with an OB.
But, don't forget to measure

I know you are jealous, it's ok.

OK Jason, i'll get you the measurements!

You da man!!!!

 

[fat fanny]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

J since you already have the power packaged mounted to a transom or part of one why don't you use that set up to test the engine and drive out.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

J since you already have the power packaged mounted to a transom or part of one why don't you use that set up to test the engine and drive out.

I don't know if you are a mind reader or what, I was just mulling that over.

Well, here is the thing. I'd just assume leave it right where it is and get it running, but, there is a fiberglass dust all over the place from when I cut up that hull. Just reaching in there and feeling around makes my arms itch for the few hours following.

I think I might feel better pulling that motor off and test run away from all that circulating fiber dust. Introducing that stuff into the nether regions and air cleaner of that motor doesn't sound super appealing. Know what I mean?

Maybe I am over thinking it?

Day two of the fall whitetail season and my bow still sits in it's case. Tragic.

 

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jason. can you cover up or plug all the critical holes and blow it off with an air compresor? Of coarse you would need to cover yourself up too

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jason. can you cover up or plug all the critical holes and blow it off with an air compresor? Of coarse you would need to cover yourself up too

Yah, I was thinking I could go the shop vac/blow off/wash down route too. Hmmmmm.

 

[yooperangler]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Idk the best way to clean that mess up but know I'm in the same boat as far as bow season bought a new crossbow and haven't even put it together yet

 

[fat fanny]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

J I think if you don't take advantage of the already set jig to test the motor and drive now you will regret it later I know I would just suck up what you can w/ shop vac as said and lightly spay around the motor and such with hose you'll be suprised how clean you can get it especially opened up like that! Imagine the testing you can do while it's all connected and pretty stable almost like the perminate set up it just won't get any better than that well at least till you mount it in the JBone cruiser! Good Luck!!!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Ok, fanny, you have me convinced. Out for cleaning detail! Thanks for chiping in man

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Well that wasn't so bad!

Here is what I started with...

I clamped the console, throttle and fuel filter/line to the transom...

Cleaned up pretty well...

I'd almost say that motor there wants to run!!!

Now I need to do my homework on how to properly start a motor that has been sitting for way too long!

Cheers!

 

[djpeters]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

That's going to be a nice powerplant!!! Fire it up!

 

[Alpheus]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

You need to build yourself one of these...

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

You are dealing with a super rookie here Alpheus. What the heck am I looking at buddy?? First Generation ipod? Space Shuttle ignition system? Hyper sensitive pizza crust thermometer?

Any way you shake it, thanks for stopping by!

 

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Awww Jason you bugger. I saw the console..scroll down..see the nice clean motor..scroll down..getting excited..hes gonna do it..here it comes....whadyamean READ? B..B..But I thought you were going to..wiping tears away and hanging head lowI guess another day:redface:

It does look good Bro

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Yah, sorry about that fsh - anti climatic I know. I actually have a hand full of things that I need to work though before I can legitimately try to start this motor.

1. Learn what I need to do for prep to start as it has been sitting for so long.

2. Repair a some wires as a few got nicked during the chop up phase.

3a. Learn how to hotwire this motor as it did not come with a key.

-or-

3b. Wire up a new ignition switch as I actually have one here on hand.

4. Have a solid understanding of how to winterize this here IO as it's now fall in MI and 30's are on the horizon.

Rock on!

 

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Oh I understand the 'got to's" before the 'want to's". Guess I was jumping to far ahead:redface: You know your going to have to use that new switch so go ahead and wire it in. Do you really need to winterize her since its in the garage? I was thinking you would do that after its in the boat. Really not much to it since you would probably be draining the water from it after the test run, right?
Remember I have never owned an IB/OB so don't trust me on this
I should just shut up & and let those in the know help you on that.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Yah, I am itching to see what this V6 can and can't do, gosh I am hopeful though buddy.

Yah, wiring up the new switch would probably be the easiest thing to do.

Oh yah, she'll need to be ready for winter temps as my garage is only insulated on one side (have no idea why previous owner did that).

Winterizing steps should be pretty straight forward (I think) but it seems even the pros debate that a whole bunch (drain and blow out vs. AF vs. muffs vs. kits) so I'll need to sort out what would be best, eh! It seems to me (for now anyway) that drain and blow will be the ticket for my rig.

Happy Sunday!

 

[fat fanny]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

J once you drain and blow it out refill w/A/F it will help cut down the internal corrosion of the manifolds and block also even befor that fog it spray the fogging agent directly into the throat of the carb till she stalls and then shot some into each cylinder to help cut down corrosion during storage easy breezy

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Thanks fanny, appreciate the advice!

OK, so here are a couple of thoughts, totally unrelated and random:

There was some talk a bit ago on zincs and such - a friendly iboater pm'ed me this info written by Michael Kasten.

http://www.kastenmarine.com/aluminum.htm

All Water Summary:
Contrary to some views that have been posted on this forum, the anode(s) should be attached with a solid mechanical and electrical connection otherwise there will be no galvanic action in the area of the anode, thus no sacrificing of the anode. In other words, your hull, motor brackets etc will be eaten as well as the anode.

Also, contrary to other claims, having too many anodes can be worse than not enough and putting anodes directly on thin aluminium hulls without a doubler plate causes corrosion due to the action of cathodic protection producing an alkaline solution in the immediate vicinity of the anode.

If you do want to put an anode on the hull, it is also good practice to ensure the application of a very sound hull coating system on the doubler plate and immediate surrounding areas, (Epoxy or Etch primer are good followed by a decent top coat). The attachment of stainless steel studs to the doubler plate rather than the hull itself also ensures that any mechanical damage does not tear studs and anodes out of the hull plating and thereby jeopardise the integrity of the hull.

Fresh Water Specific Summary:
So your best bet for freshwater use is to use a couple of decent sized zincs on the motor bracketry and ensure they're electrically connected to the hull. They will protect the hull for literally years if the water is fresh, clean and not brackish. Keep a good eye on the anodes and never be tempted to paint them or cover them with grease. When out of the water you can spray them with WD40 or similar to stop them being corroded by atmospheric moisture.


On an entirely different note...

A while back I ran beads of PL along the bow deck supports...

I finally took the time to hop up there and walk around, man what a difference! Before, it was way sloppy, almost felt like I was walking on an old thin metal gas can. Now, there is still just a little bit of give but very firm, nice!