1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
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13,269
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

And, if everybody puts their $.02 in I might have just about enough for a new Islander and I wouldn't have to talk about all this silly foam - just go fishing eh!
 

Huron Angler

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Apr 7, 2009
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

None of us remember giving you a vacation from working on the old girl:p

BTW your Islander will be sweeter than any of the new ones.

(have fun dude, and don't do anything we wouldn't do;))
 

191Seanymphstriper

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Aug 23, 2010
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

The reason why The drain plug is up higher to the left not dead center at the bottom is because that point on aluminum boats is weakest because it is what has the most presure subjected to it while in the water being it is the lowest point under water! So to avoid preasure issues with plugs and drains its up off to the side a little higher ! Also because the thrust of the motor is directly aligned with the plug now you will be getting more issues with vibration and plugs falling out from thrust issues etc!


Also just a thought,,, Why dont you get some shrink wrap from a boat shrink wrap supplier and lay this down then do the pour foam then shrink it all up so its tottaly sealed from water rain salt water etc ! And when it comes time to rmove if need be yoy can slip it in and out easy! Just a thought! :)
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Odd, I would tend to think that would be just about the strongest spot on the entire hull. The other odd thing is that is the exact OEM location of all the other bilge drains that I have seen on these hulls, that were not OMC Stringer drives.

Anybody care to post up a photo of their bulge drain location?
 

fshngho

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1,332
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I'm no engineer but I don't agree. Mine is like EZ's, low as possible and 1 1/2" off center (knee brace). The pressure would seem minimal if any at all. Actually, you would have neg pressure. Thats why you can pull the plug while on plane and drain the water out. If it were to actually interupt water flow under the boat it could cause air bubbles around the prop, but thats not the case here. The plug is what..10" below the water line max while not moving? I believe your just fine Jas.
 

Huron Angler

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Apr 7, 2009
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6,025
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Never heard of plugs falling out from pressure:confused:...the can be tightened so that it takes quite a bit of force to remove them. I like the T handle ones cause you can really twist them down tight.
 

djpeters

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 9, 2010
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Actually my drain plug IS right in the center, and I don't have knee braces. The stringers run back right into the transom. This pic kind of shows it, there is also another verticle piece as well.

IMG_2092.jpg

IMG_2083.jpg


Am I right in calling stringers the ones running the length of the boat? What do you call the ones running the width of the boat?
Also from what side do you guys install your drain plug? I have been putting it in from the outside.
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Man I'll tell ya Dave, everything about the hind end of that boat of yours is odd.
 

ben2go

Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 29, 2008
Messages
411
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

There are a lot of terms used to describe boat parts,but yes,the the square part running the length of the boat are called stringers.The parts that run left to right along the bottom of the inside of the hull are called ribs.
 

fshngho

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Dave, most people install the plug from the exterior. Its easy to remove when you pull the boat from the water. I have seen each way, and both ways at once! I guess on V5 hulls the knee braces are different so the drain is centered. Guess that settles that.:D
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

I don't want to start a fight or hi-jack, so if this has been covered before sorry.

Has anyone done a test to see how long a noodle will last in the marine conditions? Do they hold up to fuel getting on them?

Just a couple of the questions I have regarding the noodles.

I think maybe I'll put together a little test myself, just for fun. Stay tuned on that...

Good points, but back to the fact that I just dug all this stuff out. My Boat is 30+ years old, was all original, the deck was still fairly solid (I didn't have to shovel it out) and the only wet foam was the bottom 2" right up front (where there is a leak i'm sure) in the keel. Out of all that foam, less than 5% was wet (None in the back). IF I do decide to put it back in, there won't be any down the keel, only outside the stringers (which I have 4). Under the gas tank had white planks which I would replace with foam board. Up front in the center I think I would lay in foam board as well because the shape wouldn't be too hard to match. This way the entire keel is open for drainage down the middle front to back. I just don't want to "hope it floats" if something bad happens, I want to know it floats.

I'm glad you brought this up Jason!

I think you've got a pretty good plan there! My question might be, how would water flow from the sides to the center if you have pour in? Find a some good drainage with it and you'd be in business!

alrighty then, my two cents
I think the problem with poured foam is once its installed it is very difficult to remove IF you had a bad rivet or drainage problems. Add to that it does absorb water to a degree. Then you have the noodles, which one could assume does not supply enough bouancy as shown in the drawing. What was missed is the noodles are compacted into the hull and you don't have as much 'wasted space' as explained. Bottles, packing air bags, and yes even 'peanuts" could be used. In this case I would put them in a plastic bag (that won't deteriate) and compact/install evenly.
How about this..spread some plastic out on the floor of the hull and then use poured foam. Once its set up, remove it, carve out drainage channels etc and then re install...custom fit. If or when its waterlogged, replace it. Or you can remove it for repair.
Jas, maybe you shoulda started another thread. Sorry to hijack.

I think that is a pretty darn good solution for using pour in foam and maintaining drainage, eh!:D

No hijack, good stuff!

Well I might as well add to the hijack.....

Guys I think there's probably pros and cons to just about anything you choose to use. At this point I'm not sold an my earlier assumption that the poured in place caused the aluminum rot in my Mariner. I'm leaning more towards trapped salt water.

I've removed the expanded polystyrene white foam (eps) from two boats and they were both dry (66 & 75). But I do know, based upon my line of work (commercial roofing consultant for the last almost 20 years and many years as a commercial roofer prior to that) that the eps will absorb moisture when the moisture heats up and turns to vapor. There are many roofing systems out there failing with waterlogged eps. So I won't be using any of that.

I don't have any experience with the pool noodles but I've heard rumours that they break down over time even in the dark. I don't know if it's true because the danged things are designed to be used out in the sun and we all know what sun does to styrenes. It eats them. so I don't really think anyone has tested them along those lines. So there's enough of an unknown to steer me clear.

When I removed the eps foam from the liquid limo I knew enough about the lasting and water/vapor properties of the extruded polystryene to know that is what I wanted to use. That's just what I knew was available and I had enough of a comfortable feeling about it to use it. It doesn't close off the limbers and as long as the sun don't touch it, it will last close to forever. Also the water vapor/heat/absorbing problem isn't there. Also, once I got all the floor in, glassed and vinyled, I don't hear the squeeking sounds anymore.

I really like working and scheming on these boats as a hobby but what I don't like is removing and replacing the floor, so I'm hoping that I only have to do it once in any of the boats I redo.

I'm not knocking the noodles, I just don't know enough about them to use them.

Agreed!

Agreed!

Why do you have to go slandering another mans noodles, NB????

Totally kidding man, I hear ya on the unknowns.:D

One other thing I forgot to mention about my foam, there was not one sqaure inch of space under the deck that did not have foam. That stuff oozed into every nook and cranny.

Ez...I have been pondering the hybrid approach since you mentioned it last week. I believe that will be the way I go, probably lay a piece down on the bottom and another vertically next to the stringer and fill the rest with pour in.

Jas...maybe you can start a discussion about paint too and we can figure out how to make paint stick forever AND look good. I still need to figure that out.

I'm done now.

That is good to hear!

Yah, maybe when I'm to paint stage we can kick that around too!

OK Jason, we're done using your thread for a long bs session. You can go back to work on the boat now.

BTW Dave. Anywhere that poured in touches the board it's gonna melt the board

I think BS, fishing and rebuilding boats all go so well together, don't you??!! I'd sure hate to remove any one of those three!

OOOOooooo, that right there is good to know!

None of us remember giving you a vacation from working on the old girl

BTW your Islander will be sweeter than any of the new ones.

(have fun dude, and don't do anything we wouldn't do

Yah, no vacation, would have loved one though!! My youngest son has some med issues - respiratory stuff. We were at U of M Medical Center. Tell ya what, they are awesome there! I think they can help us which is huge!! We are pretty pumped!

I just hope this old girl can run well, look decent and give us some family fun time in the end!

And, you have me thinking. What would the crew that hangs around here not do? Oh, the thought makes me a little nervous.:eek:
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

The reason why The drain plug is up higher to the left not dead center at the bottom is because that point on aluminum boats is weakest because it is what has the most presure subjected to it while in the water being it is the lowest point under water! So to avoid preasure issues with plugs and drains its up off to the side a little higher ! Also because the thrust of the motor is directly aligned with the plug now you will be getting more issues with vibration and plugs falling out from thrust issues etc!

NB's Islander...
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/HillbillyBowyer/75 Islander/Islander80.jpg

PR's Islander...
http://www.paparoof.com/photos/d/1511-2/20100802_islander_0010.jpg

TimFives Islander...
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/timfives/IMG_0266-1.jpg

Wwaralpacas's Starchief...
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn96/wrfalpacas/boatsecondweek014.jpg

...all dead center bottom.
 

Golden Arrow II

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
91

North Beach

Commander
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Sep 29, 2008
Messages
2,022
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild


Ok I figured it out.

Everyone get a pen and paper!










The boats that have the drain hole off center are all owned by weird people:p
 

Triton II

Commander
Joined
Nov 23, 2004
Messages
2,479
Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Aha, so that's my problem. I recently had to spend time in the decompression chamber on my way back up from installing the plug in a centre of the transom drained boat who's owner had committed the cardinal sin and launched without it. :eek:

Next time I'll remember to only offer my diving services to boat owners who's plug is installed off centre. Should reduce the decomp time yeah? :p

TII
 
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