1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

[archbuilder]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Nice work, looks like things are moving along nicely!

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

I've got some more work done. I switched resins this weekend from epoxy to polyester. I don't mind working with the new resin but I don't care much for working with csm.

I filled in some holes in the dash by cutting out some 3/4" plywood to match the holes. I glued them in place then I came back and sanded the area and applied a couple of layers of csm and then a layer of 1708.

I also glassed in the pieces that will make up the base of my bench seat along with the base of my two front seats using csm.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

I took some small bolts and reattached my hull and my cap. This is only until I finish glassing the splashwell and I'll seperate them again so I can paint. I then laid down some wax paper across the transom to keep the new glassing of the spashwell from sticking.

I then wetted out a piece of woven roven and applied it to the existing area and wrapping it up and over the transom. Afterwards, I clamped it down in place to make sure it would be flat. After setting up, I then wetted out a piece of csm and applied over the WR and them laid a 2x4 over the top of the transom to ensure flatness on the top. It will need some sanding before building more layers but it's a start.

I finished up tonight by glassing my deck using csm. I will come back with epoxy and cloth and tab the edges where I used PB to fill the gap between the wood and hull.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Looking good there BigRed, She getting close now !! !! John

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Looking good there BigRed, She getting close now !! !! John

Thanks John. I can't believe I'm almost ready to start preping for paint!

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Really nice looking work! What color are you painting her?

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Really nice looking work! What color are you painting her?

I'm not real sure about the colors yet. I have an idea of what I want but everytime I tell someone I end up changing them.

Also, I apologize for not replying to your pm earlier. I just noticed it today.

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

No problem, they need to work on that....I have missed them before too. It just kind of blends in. Thanks for the info!

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Thanks John. I can't believe I'm almost ready to start preping for paint!

Take your time !!! and she will turn out great !!!!! John

 

[mrlassi1]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Nice work Big Red!

Your glass work looks great. What's your secret to getting everything wetted out and so even?

-Mike

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Nice work Big Red!

Your glass work looks great. What's your secret to getting everything wetted out and so even?

-Mike

Using LOTS of resin with my handy chip brush and patience.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

It's been a while since I've updated so here goes...

I've been sanding on the top of the deck and filling in holes. I've been wetting out a piece of CSM and place it on the backside of the hole and let it cure. I mixed up some epoxy with cabosil and milled fibers and then filled the hole. I did a light sanding with the orbital sander then came back with some epoxy and 3M bubbles to smooth the surface. Now I need to go back and sand smooth and it should be ready for final sanding and priming. Unfortunately, I have not taken many pictures but here is what I have.

I also used the epoxy, cabosil and milled fiber mixture and started building up a couple of areas on the bottom stern of the boat where some serious gouges were.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Some other progress has been made with making my seat mount boxes. I pre-glassed them with poly resin and csm then glued everything together with PL Premo and ran a couple of screws to hold in place. After the PL Premo cures, I will come back, sand and glass all the interior edges with some epoxy and cloth.

I also made a template for the piece of wood that I cut to access my core up in the bow of the boat. After transferring the template, I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and glued it in place with some PL Premo and I used some blocks of wood screwed in place from the top to hold the wood in place. I would tighten the screw to raise the new piece of wood or loosen to lower since the 1/2" was thicker then the original piece. I will finish by sanding the seam of PL Premo, tab the edge and then glass the repair area.

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

As usual your work looks great! The body work and hole filling are the most frustrating parts.....fill, sand, fill, sand.....Keep on filling and sanding, she is going to be a sweet ride!

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

As usual your work looks great! The body work and hole filling are the most frustrating parts.....fill, sand, fill, sand.....Keep on filling and sanding, she is going to be a sweet ride!

Yeah, the filling and sanding is already a headache and I'm only fillering on the topside for practice. I have some Watertite Epoxy Filler by Interlux that I'm going to use below the rub rail but I've got to get the boat flipped over to start that.

What does everyone use to sand? Where would I find a large block sander?

 

[drewpster]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

What does everyone use to sand? Where would I find a large block sander?

I use 150 grit to knock down watertite. Start with a sander to feather edge the perimeter and to cut any real high spots. Then finish it by hand with a block. Go get a cheap sheetrock block for the flat spots and use paper on it. I also use cut dowel rods of various sizes to get in to inside corner radius. Sand flat first then finish corners by hand. I used a piece of leftover hardwood flooring slat to make a long block. I glued a piece of rubber to it and wrap it in sand paper to use it. You can get long boards and paper for them at a body shop supply house but they are pricey.
The trick is to build up the filler slightly but not too high. Watertite is tuff stuff and is harder to sand than Bondo or Formula 27. But it wont fracture or collect water.
It is also a good idea to spray a light guide coat on larger areas when you are finish sanding them. The contrast shows low spots really well. I just used plain old spray paint off the shelf for that. Its green and stands out really well against the blue watetite. Remember a very light mist as a guide coat is all that is needed. Get it to heavy and your making more work for yourself sanding it back off.
Once everything is fair, lightly sand it with 220 to get it ready for primer. Its allot of work, but it makes a huge difference if your painting a dark color on the boat.

enjoy
drewp

 

[mrlassi1]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

I'm not sure I know what a chip brush is Big Red. Mind posting a picture?

Who makes the "watertight" filler you mentioned DrewP?

Thank you.

 

[drewpster]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Interlux Watertite (yes tite) Epoxy base filler for painted surfaces. You need a polyester base filler if you are finishing with gelcoat.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

I'm not sure I know what a chip brush is Big Red. Mind posting a picture?

Who makes the "watertight" filler you mentioned DrewP?

Thank you.

I call it a chip brush but it's a cheap disposable brush. I'm pretty sure there is a picture of me using one while glassing in 1708 into the hull.
http://www.mertons.com/Tools/brushes.html or http://www.shopmaninc.com/brushes.html

Interlux Watertite...it's a two part epoxy filler for below the waterline.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

I use 150 grit to knock down watertite. Start with a sander to feather edge the perimeter and to cut any real high spots. Then finish it by hand with a block. Go get a cheap sheetrock block for the flat spots and use paper on it. I also use cut dowel rods of various sizes to get in to inside corner radius. Sand flat first then finish corners by hand. I used a piece of leftover hardwood flooring slat to make a long block. I glued a piece of rubber to it and wrap it in sand paper to use it. You can get long boards and paper for them at a body shop supply house but they are pricey.
The trick is to build up the filler slightly but not too high. Watertite is tuff stuff and is harder to sand than Bondo or Formula 27. But it wont fracture or collect water.
It is also a good idea to spray a light guide coat on larger areas when you are finish sanding them. The contrast shows low spots really well. I just used plain old spray paint off the shelf for that. Its green and stands out really well against the blue watetite. Remember a very light mist as a guide coat is all that is needed. Get it to heavy and your making more work for yourself sanding it back off.
Once everything is fair, lightly sand it with 220 to get it ready for primer. Its allot of work, but it makes a huge difference if your painting a dark color on the boat.

enjoy
drewp

Thanks drewp! This is great information.