1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

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GT1000000

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Well I guess the usual .
Nav/anchor light
2 original courtesy light .
Trolling motor with receptacle plug .
live well pump .
Auxiliary 12 v receptacle .
Horn and button .
Bilge pump ..."maybe"
40 hp Johnson outboard ..
I think every thing needed is there except maybe some shrink wrap .
Lisa /Kelly , maybe when ya get a chance you could dump every thing out on the floor and some what organize every thing and take a few pics ..:)
When I wired the MFG it was just the bare basics .. Much more stuff on the Ouachita ...

OK, I'll get to workin on it and get something for ya in a day or two...
 

Woodonglass

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Not sure if this might help but here it is anyway...

Basic-Outboard-Boat-Wiring-Diagram.jpg
 

sphelps

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That is helpful , Not sure what gauges are going in though ...
 

KC4ZQZ

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I'll start sorting tomorrow. Anything to keep me from sanding. Lol Lisa. :)
 

GT1000000

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Sorry for not getting back to you guys, been slammed at work and feeling under the weather :rain:with some crud :sick: that has got hold of me and the Admiral...:fatigue:
 

sphelps

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Sorry about the feeling cruddy stuff Gus .. My wife has been battling a bug for about 2 weeks now .. While the paints been curing I have been working on my daughter's bath remodel . In the middle of laying tile . Starting to come together ...
 

Corjen1

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Kinda of missing the Lisa, Sam and Mom show......hope things are going well for you!!
 

sphelps

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Sitting in a hotel down in Orlando at the moment .. The Admiral , sil and daughter , headed to a water park tomorrow . Almost have a functioning bathroom for them . So I do for see some electrical work and such happening real soon on the Ouachita ! Later Gator !!!
 

GT1000000

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Sorry I haven't been of much help in the electrical dept., but both of those diagrams will get you going in the right direction...
If you run across any hang ups, give me a holler through my email...
All the best, gt...
 

sphelps

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No real hang ups yet .. Just weeding through all the parts and pieces that Charles purchased . Only gunna be one battery . From what I can tell there was no gauges installed at all . There is no console . Stick steering on the port side and motor controls on the starboard side . Just a couple of ?
Would 10 ga wire be sufficient to power the trolling motor ?
There is a nice fuse panel. Switch panel , I thought there was a main power switch but I cant find it . There is 2 large 4 or 5 post grounding buses . I assume I should mount one at the transom and the other up by the fuse panel .
Should I run a + wire from the T/M uninterrupted other than an inline fuse to the battery ?
There is a roll of 14 ga marine wire that I am using for all accessories ..

Pretty much installed all the hardware other than seats and the trim that Lisa's been shining up .Hope to hang the motor on there soon and hook up the steering and controls ..
I did test the horn just to see if it worked . And I promise that I would never purposely do that while anyone wasn't expecting it .. :whistle::horn::joyous:
 

GT1000000

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How big is the T/M, [make and model], and what distance is it from the battery?
Really should consider a deep cycle battery dedicated/switched to the T/M, since it can run a battery down pretty quick, especially if it is one of the older models, then you might find yourself in a situation where you won't have enough cranking juice to start the engine...
You can install a main power switch near the main battery...a simple one like that used in race cars, to turn the battery on/off...or a dual battery switch if you go with a second battery...
Hmmm, unexpected horn blowing...now who would ever do that...:rolleyes:
 
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sphelps

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I'll see if I can get some specs on the t/m next time I,m there . I don't think they plan on using it much . More of a back up if the o/b acts up to get them back to the dock .
 

Woodonglass

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LIke GT says Guage depends on length of run. I had a 16' boat very similar to this back in the 90's. The TM wire was #4 guage but it was 24Volt. I'm kinda skeptical that 10 guage is big enuf.
 

sphelps

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The leads on the receptacle plug in are 10 ga . That is what making me think 10 ga . The run would be aprox 15/16 feet .
 

Woodonglass

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Is it a 12V TM?

Here's what a Trolling Motor so called expert had to say...

"Trolling motors generally pull the same amount of amps as the thrust size. So for example... a 50 lb thrust means 50 amp draw at wide open.
Then depending on length of run of the wire from source to device and back you get your wire size.
15 feet or less use #6...20 or 25 feet use #4 for 50 amp.
If you want to oversize and avoid hot wires if you run wide open a lot then use the 60 amp...15 to 20 feet run use #4...20 to 30 feet use #2 wire.
So it looks like #4 is the winner unless you have a long run from battery to motor and back. And yes you do have to figure in the run back in the equation."



In an electrical system the conductors should not be sized with voltage drops exceeding 3%.

For a 12V system the maximum voltage drop should be less than 12 (V) x 3% = 0.36 (V).

The table below can be used to determine the combination of maximum current through a 12V electrical wire, size (AWG) and length of cable.
American Wire Gauge (AWG)
Length
(feet)
Current (amps)
5
10
15
20
25
30
40
50
60
70
15
16
12
10
10
8
8
6
6
4
4
20
14
12
10
8
8
6
6
4
4
4
25
14
10
8
8
6
6
4
4
2
2
30
12
10
8
6
6
4
4
2
2
2
40
12
8
6
6
4
4
2
2
1
1/0
50
10
8
6
4
4
2
2
1
1/0
1/0
60
10
6
6
4
2
2
1
1/0
2/0
2/0
70
10
6
4
2
2
2
1/0
2/0
2/0
3/0
80
8
6
4
2
2
1
1/0
2/0
3/0
3/0
90
8
4
4
2
1
1/0
2/0
3/0
3/0
4/0
Note! Failure to use an adequate size may result in fire. Always secure a wire with a fuse.
  • 1 ft (foot) = 0.3048 m
Wire Gauge Design Procedure
  1. calculate the total length of the wire from the source to the device and back again
  2. determine the amount of current in the wire
  3. correct wire gauge is in the intersection of amps and feet
Note! The wire size is required for a 3% voltage drop in 12 Volt circuits. Oversize the wire if the voltage drop is critical.
 
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sphelps

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T/M is 12v 40 lb thrust .. Length of run is right at 23 ft ... So going with the above chart 6 ga would be sufficient ...I assume ...
Got just about everything wired up except the t/m,bilge pump that we decided to add and the live well pump .
Also need to wire up the o/b start switch ..
Still need to do a little trailer work . Looks like the trailer is to short for the boat but I think I can move the winch post forward some and add some longer bunks to fix that ...
Slowly getting there ..... :joyous:
 

Corjen1

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Woohoo.glad to see you guys are still in business!!
 

sphelps

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OK need some advice ... After much thought and debate it was decided to install a bilge pump ... Everything is already painted down in the bilge area . We need to fasten the the plastic base down somehow .. The instructions show it mounted to a 1/2" piece of plywood or something .. My thoughts was to cut a piece of ply seal real well with fiberglass then try and epoxy it down to the bottom of the bilge .. Do you think it would adhere to the paint or should I grind the paint off to get to glass ...
Or maybe just epoxy some t-nuts down to the hull with no wood .. ......velcro maybe ?
Any thoughts ?
 
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