1972 Starcraft Nova

[captainnate]

Since I'm in super slow motion with this project and I've had the boat floor out for a while, I noticed that area in front of the first rib holds a cup or two of water when it rains. That area is full of sealant goo that must be blocking the water from escaping. I store the boat outside with a cover. However, water still finds its way in. Should I drill a couple little drain holes in the first rib? Seems like they might just get clogged easy. Should I make an access hole so I can shopvac the water out? Seems like water sitting in there will cause that front floor board to rot faster. Thanks.

 

[jdvasher]

Since I'm in super slow motion with this project and I've had the boat floor out for a while, I noticed that area in front of the first rib holds a cup or two of water when it rains. That area is full of sealant goo that must be blocking the water from escaping. I store the boat outside with a cover. However, water still finds its way in. Should I drill a couple little drain holes in the first rib? Seems like they might just get clogged easy. Should I make an access hole so I can shopvac the water out? Seems like water sitting in there will cause that front floor board to rot faster. Thanks.

Do you have a picture of the situation. Generally I would not recommend drilling into the ribs as that's the backbone of your boat. It might be better to just get a cover that doesn't allow water into the boat.

 

[MNhunter1]

Assuming you are storing it outside and the water is coming in from the cover of the stripped down hull, I wouldn't worry about it. Once the bow cap is back on, if the boat is stored correctly, that area will never see water unless it is leaking in from the hull. If you really wanted to keep on eye on it, I'd just add a small round screw-in or pop-out inspection plate to the deck over that area. You could then just soak it up with a sponge or suck it out with a vacuum if it remains an issue.

 

[Watermann]

You 72 would have limber holes bent into the rib for water passage to the bilge but they get clogged up pretty easy. Some guys clean them out with a hacksaw blade. You can start by using a pressure washer or whatever you have and spray water at the rib end openings. The later 70's they quit even worrying about the limber hole bends in the ribs since they become ineffective so quickly and that amount of water is nothing top worry about..

 

[captainnate]

What adhesive do you recommend? I just received the nautolex flooring vinyl from defender. My floor has a glossy finish. Of course defender was out of the Nautolex 88 adhesive. I was considering ordering glue from pontoonstuff.com. However it seems like a lot of pontoon guys don't treat their plywood, so they have bare plywood which Im assuming might work better with the glue they recommend.

 

[captainnate]

I can't figure out why this site won't let me upload pictures

 

[roscoe]

I can't figure out why this site won't let me upload pictures

iBoats techs are working to fix it.
its been broke for a few days.

 

[captainnate]

Can someone point in the right direction on glue for my vinyl flooring? I treated the marine plywood with a few coats of the old timers formula, followed up with spar urethane as a fine coating. So I have a glossy finish on the plywood flooring. I have the nautolex vinyl flooring. Now I need to decide on which adhesive will work best. Thanks in advance.

 

[captainnate]

Can someone point in the right direction on glue for my vinyl flooring? I treated the marine plywood with a few coats of the old timers formula, followed up with spar urethane as a fine coating. So I have a glossy finish on the plywood flooring. I have the nautolex vinyl flooring. Now I need to decide on which adhesive will work best. Thanks in advance.

 

[MNhunter1]

3M80, Contact Cement, or the Nautolex adhesive. Whichever way you go, I would hit the glossy surface with an orbital sander to give it some teeth. Mechanically secure the edges with stainless staples. On the Nova, the side panels will cover any staples in the open cockpit and those under the splashwell and covered bow will not be noticeable. I did trim out my cutout at the knee brace with some aluminum angle to mechanically secure the edges there and give it a more finished look.

 

[jbcurt00]

Monel staples are more rust resistant than stainless

 

[Watermann]

I get my vinyl from Defender

 

[captainnate]

3M80, Contact Cement, or the Nautolex adhesive. Whichever way you go, I would hit the glossy surface with an orbital sander to give it some teeth. Mechanically secure the edges with stainless staples. On the Nova, the side panels will cover any staples in the open cockpit and those under the splashwell and covered bow will not be noticeable. I did trim out my cutout at the knee brace with some aluminum angle to mechanically secure the edges there and give it a more finished look.

How fast does the 3m80 set up? Is there time to smooth out the vinyl? I've read contact cement can be unforgiving because it makes an instant bond. Maybe I'll do some sample testing.

 

[mattsteg]

How fast does the 3m80 set up? Is there time to smooth out the vinyl? I've read contact cement can be unforgiving because it makes an instant bond. Maybe I'll do some sample testing.

It's a contact adhesive that's formulated to not degrade in the presence of the plasticizers that are in vinyl. It's maybe slightly forgiving but mostly you should get your lay right before contact is made.

 

[MNhunter1]

It's a contact adhesive that's formulated to not degrade in the presence of the plasticizers that are in vinyl. It's maybe slightly forgiving but mostly you should get your lay right before contact is made.

Yes, more forgiving than contact cement, but still very finicky.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

page 73 of my thread "1973 starcraft restore in progress" shows what and how i did my floor with 3m80. I am very happy with how it all went down and turned out. hope this is helpful

 

[crankbait cowboy]

I am sorry that is page 37 about the middle of "1973 starcraft ss restore in progress"