1972 Starcraft Nova

[mattsteg]

There's lots of white sealant. I guess I assumed all this was done at the factory. Maybe they had trouble when they were building it, and had to add the bigger braces.

I haven't seen white stuff from the factory.

 

[Moserkr]

The more experienced guys will be along shortly to tell you whats factory and whats probably not, as well as how to fix that crack. Not a big deal and id double up on the gluvit after your repairs. Very cool family history that youre keeping alive. No better way to do it.

 

[Watermann]

There's lots of white sealant. I guess I assumed all this was done at the factory. Maybe they had trouble when they were building it, and had to add the bigger braces.

Definitely a retro fit of the braces and the rib end crack I bet was there when they put in the braces but either they didn't repair it or see it.

Easy repair for the crack, remove the solid rivets at the rib end, with a tiny bit stop crack drill holes at the ends of the crack. Fashion a patch for the outside of the hull, I would remove the paint from under the area the patch will be placed. Drill all your rivet holes through the patch and bed it in 5200 then new solid rivets. It'll take some some longer rivets, seeing your have 4 layers of AL total. My advice would be 1/2"L x 3/16" dia.

My rib end cracks were minor less than 1/2" from the rivet holes so the patches were made smaller than you'll need but this is what they look like.

 

[Watermann]

Nah the Novas were earlier and smooth-sided.

Yeah that's without a doubt, I remember @MNhunter1 15' Nova,

Guess what would've been more accurate the V5 run were the start of smooth sides before the mid 80's went half lap, half smooth and that was the end of the lap sides for SC. The Nova's are one of the rare models and were a vey limited run and are super cool models.

 

[classiccat]

those braces were added (possibly by a StarCraft service center) to address the outer chine flexing/cracking.

The brace widths are probably proportional to the length of the fatigue cracks...and the wider they made them, the more of the double-seam rivets they had to knock out. is the leak coming from the cracks or the double-seam? I can speak from experience, disturbing that double-seam seal can be tough to seal up. I hit mine from the inside as well as the outside when it was turtled.

 

[captainnate]

Definitely a retro fit of the braces and the rib end crack I bet was there when they put in the braces but either they didn't repair it or see it.

Easy repair for the crack, remove the solid rivets at the rib end, with a tiny bit stop crack drill holes at the ends of the crack. Fashion a patch for the outside of the hull, I would remove the paint from under the area the patch will be placed. Drill all your rivet holes through the patch and bed it in 5200 then new solid rivets. It'll take some some longer rivets, seeing your have 4 layers of AL total. My advice would be 1/2"L x 3/16" dia.

My rib end cracks were minor less than 1/2" from the rivet holes so the patches were made smaller than you'll need but this is what they look like.

Thanks for the help. I'm going to need some new tools for this patch. Can I use a cheap air hammer, or do I need something specific for rivets? What thickness should the patch aluminum be? What is a good place to get clecoes?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The boat has a Mercruiser 120. It's mostly reliable. I have had a few situtations where the motor would quit, only too start up again after waiting 15 or 30 minutes. I have had it look at. The marina replaced some wires and put on a new alternator a couple years ago. I still have yet to pinpoint the issue. From what I read it is either electrical or fuel. I have an old Honda kicker that I use now as a backup.

Also I replace the transom a few years ago for those who are wondering.

I used a recipe of 1/3 linseed oil, mineral spirits and varnish on the transom. I gave a few coats of that mixture before using some oil bases rustoleum as the final coat. I was thinking a using the same recipe for the floor. What do you guys think?

Old timers formula. I do the same but with Spar over top. Then wrap with nautolex. Maybe not as good as epoxy, but fine for my boat which is dry stored 48-50 weeks of the year.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to need some new tools for this patch. Can I use a cheap air hammer, or do I need something specific for rivets? What thickness should the patch aluminum be? What is a good place to get clecoes?

Aircraft spruce for clecos and rivet removal tool (centring and depth limiting device) and JayCee for rivets and brazier setting head for your air chisel/hammer. Yes cheap air hammer is fine)

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Yeah that's without a doubt, I remember @MNhunter1 15' Nova,

Guess what would've been more accurate the V5 run were the start of smooth sides before the mid 80's went half lap, half smooth and that was the end of the lap sides for SC. The Nova's are one of the rare models and were a vey limited run and are super cool models.

That’s pretty cool. Love the green love the sunglasses windshield look. Cool looking rig

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to need some new tools for this patch. Can I use a cheap air hammer, or do I need something specific for rivets? What thickness should the patch aluminum be? What is a good place to get clecoes?

Waterman has a great sticky on solid rivets. You could have 5/32 or 3/16 thick. .080” thick 5052 aluminum is my thought. 3/8” long rivet for 2ply, 7/16” for 3ply

 

[MNhunter1]

Sorry, been unplugged for the past few days and just seeing this now. Yes, the Novas were smooth sided and only available in 1972 and 1973 as best as I can tell, with 15’, 16’, and the 18’ I/O options. Every one I’ve seen is factory black/red stripe in the 15’, yellow/black stripe in the 16’, and the tan you have in the 18’. I do believe the 18’ was available in both OB and I/O options.

The braces have to be a later add-on and we’re not standard from the factory at that time. It also appears most of your rivet heads have sheared off, or is that just the pictures?

Awesome boat! Hit me up if you have any questions on the Novas, I researched the hell out of them when I was building my 15’.

 

[MNhunter1]

 

[captainnate]

View attachment 338231

That's the one. Thanks for posting.

 

[MNhunter1]

Here's another 18' Nova. You can see it does not have the additional rivets for the braces you have on yours.

 

[captainnate]

I've been slow getting my act together and gathering supplies. I treated the floor boards with a few coats of the old time recipe. What is a good place to get the sheet aluminum for my hull patches?

 

[captainnate]

Floor boards

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I've been slow getting my act together and gathering supplies. I treated the floor boards with a few coats of the old time recipe. What is a good place to get the sheet aluminum for my hull patches?

No sense buying a full sheet. There’s so many laser shops these days that stock various alloys etc. By just what you need. I’m sure there’s one right around the corner from you.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Here's another 18' Nova. You can see it does not have the additional rivets for the braces you have on yours.
View attachment 338235View attachment 338236

I LOVE these!! I want

 

[jdvasher]

Thanks for the reply. What do you recommend for treating the plywood before I glue the vinyl down? I know some people use resin, or epoxy. I was going to use a combination of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. I might put a coat o rust-oleum cover that. I just don't want to do something to the wood that makes the glue ineffective.

I'm not an expert on this matter but I don't think varnish would be good if you plan to cover with vinyl. I varnished my new transom with a blend as you describe and tape wont even stick to it. Epoxy or glass is always a good option as they will cure hard. I went with glass and used glue on top for my carpet and it made a strong bond.

 

[Watermann]

The vinyl glue I use sticks to cured Helmsman Spar which is urethane. If the OTF is not gassed out leaving only the solids adhesion won't happen with paint or adhesive.