1970's Aluminum Mckenzie Cherokee Runabout Rebuild

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You should install a rear roller on that trailer, then when you load the boat up on the trailer adjust your bunks to the best height.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You should install a rear roller on that trailer, then when you load the boat up on the trailer adjust your bunks to the best height.

Where are the bunks best positioned so the weight is spread evenly onto the trailer? Would the brackets be installed on the inside or outside of the trailer beams displayed above?

 

[submariner1980]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Inside or outside - bank board should be under boat stringer. Welded crossmember on the trailer end will work as support for motor

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Where are the bunks best positioned so the weight is spread evenly onto the trailer? Would the brackets be installed on the inside or outside of the trailer beams displayed above?

I'd spread the bunks as wide as practical to provide the most stable support for the boat, so I'd go with the outside position. That said, you may need to address the location of any chines that you don't want to ride up onto the bunk. Put lots of support back close to the transom to spread the forces evenly across the hull and support the heaviest part of the boat. = Grandad

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

duplicate post

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Inside or outside - bank board should be under boat stringer. Welded crossmember on the trailer end will work as support for motor

Good idea, except that the stringers are likely no more than 2' apart, which is kinda narrow for a stable load. - Grandad

 

[submariner1980]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Good idea, except that the stringers are likely no more than 2' apart, which is kinda narrow for a stable load. - Grandad

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153631&d=1340287931
I have same size Mc Kenzie, between star and port stringers 40 inches.
Here is good source for bank boards. www.ultimatebunkboards.com
Have a good productive weekend .

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks GD and Sub.

I started a trailer thread here and think I pretty much have things figured out.

http://forums.iboats.com/trailers-t...-trailer-conversion-rollers-bunks-604490.html

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Trailer is coming along. Getting closer to flip.

In the meantime I've been going to work stripping paint on port and starboard sides. Does it matter that some patches are left behind? I would expect the zinc chromate and primer will smooth things out nicely?

 

[ben2go]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

As long as the patches have enough tooth to hold the primer.

 

[submariner1980]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Use paintstrippper to take all patches of old paint out unless you want to do same job two years later. Some yellow/ olive coloration might be present under old paint, it's an alodine.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Use paintstrippper to take all patches of old paint out unless you want to do same job two years later. Some yellow/ olive coloration might be present under old paint, it's an alodine.

Thanks Sub. Most of the heavy lifting is done after using 15 x 80 grit pads with the orbital sander. I will take another pass at the patches and have them removed.

Getting a little ahead of things but I am interested to know how to approach the dash. The old dash was completely removed and will be replaced with this.



It's nearly a 2" thick piece of solid oak. What do I need to consider in terms of the dimensions for the dash?

BTW - the plan is to replace the old cable and pulley steering system with something like a Teleflex or Uflex steering system.

 

[DLuns69]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I am currently restoring a '63 Cherokee. I believe the dash is 2 pieces-- a 3/4 inch support under the bow near the dash that runs side to side and then a 1/4 to 1/2 dash that screws onto that.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

My dash is only 3/4" thick, with my 1/4" added, for a total of 1".

Something to consider is: what is the maximum thickness that the things you are going to mount in it (steering wheel, any gauges and switches) able to mount into? Any switches I could find were only able to mount into a maximum thickness of 1". That's one reason I mounted two of them below the dash on an aluminum plate. Some gauges may only be able to be mounted in a surface up to 1" thick or a little more, but 2" is really pushing it, unless you plan to plane your board down.

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Hi Jeff, as nice as that oak specimen may be, I think you'll regret using it for the dashboard. It's overkill for both thickness and strength and the weight of oak, especially 2", is to be avoided except in keels & stems of heavy wooden boats. As lakelover says, switches will be difficult to mount (though not impossible). I think that a 3/4" x 8" piece of ribbon stripe mahogany would serve you well. It's a traditional boat building material, relatively strong for its weight, is commonly used for dashboards in wood boats and finishes real nice. I've used it myself for that purpose in a wood boat I built. Oak can be a pain in the butt to work with, though you can finish it to look as good as mahogany. - Grandad

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks for the replies DL, LL and GD.

I read through LL's dash installation and understand a 3/4" piece of wood was used for the dash. And 1/4" piece of wood serves as the finished dash face. Would it be better to go with a 3/4" or 1" thick piece of mahogany?

I will be mounting the steering wheel, tachometer, maybe speedo, bilge pump switch, tilt and trim switch and light switch.

The old dash came apart in several pieces and seemed pretty much patch work.

What would be the best method to install the new dash? I think I need to have braces fabricated that would be used to mount the dash?

Does that make sense?

 

[DLuns69]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I'm thinking 3/4 inch of whatever wood for the base piece and then 1/4 inch piece of mahogany mounted on that as the "show piece". Their should be brackets on left and right end of the 3 or 4 slats that support the bow. They are fastened to the boat with lead rivets. I just drilled them out and replaced with stainless bolts.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I'm thinking 3/4 inch of whatever wood for the base piece and then 1/4 inch piece of mahogany mounted on that as the "show piece". Their should be brackets on left and right end of the 3 or 4 slats that support the bow. They are fastened to the boat with lead rivets. I just drilled them out and replaced with stainless bolts.

Thanks DL.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't have the oak piece cut into 3/4" and 1/4" thick pieces? I realize the weight may be heavier than other woods but does that matter? Would a lighter piece of 3/4" be easier to mount and install?

Ok. So it sounds like the brackets mount to the hull on port and starboard sides. Then using rivets or SS hardware mount the dash to the brackets? Should I also use rivets to connect the slats with the bow?

Perhaps someone has a picture that I can view?

TIA!

 

[DLuns69]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I don't see why you couldn't use Oak for both pieces. I did....but I have a tendency to put the cart before the horse, so to speak. You can make it look really nice. I think if you have easy access to longer rivets, that would be the way to go in fastening the supports to the brackets. I let the bow rest on the supports, which I had put weatherstripping on. Then just riveted around the edges. I will try to post some pics soon.

 

[DLuns69]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I don't see why you couldn't use Oak for both pieces. I did....but I have a tendency to put the cart before the horse, so to speak. You can make it look really nice. I think if you have easy access to longer rivets, that would be the way to go in fastening the supports to the brackets. I let the bow rest on the supports, which I had put weatherstripping on. Then just riveted around the edges. I will try to post some pics soon.

Here is one pick that shows the dash support board. I took the outter dash piece off to do more work to it.