1970's Aluminum Mckenzie Cherokee Runabout Rebuild

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

When using the Homebuilt flaring tool, a couple of things are important to understand. 1.) the Tube should be cut so it sticks out approx. 1/4" to 5/16" from the surface of the transom. 2.) The nylock nut is only used to start the flaring process. Once it starts to curl, you remove the nut, turn it around to the flat side, place a washer on the bolt then tighten the nut down to finish the flaring. Note: Remove the Nylon busing from the nut to make it screw on easier. Hope this helps.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Been awhile since my last post. It's been extremely cold the last week. I have an 240 volt electric garage heater but nothing to plug into. Will need to get that sorted out.

Got a few things done with LA boat.

- used the Rockwell power tool to remove the port side fibreglass. Will need to go over it and sand to smooth finish.

- purchased at PT-130 power tilt and trim

Suppossed to warmup next week so maybe I'll get at the starboard side fibreglass.

Cheers!!

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Here's the power tilt and trim

And the fibreglass removed from port side

Stay warm eh!

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You're patient with your progress, good thing you have winter to cheer you on! Thanks for the update.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks LL. Thankfully winter is on it's way out and spring around the corner.

Got the starboard fibreglass removed. Not a job I enjoyed too much. Lot's of dust and bits and pieces. Occasionally a bit or two would spit-up and hit me in the face. Grrrrrrr.

Anyway both sides are mostly stripped. Need to get onto rivets and sanding.

I have blind pop rivets ready to go. I think I need to drill-out the old and leaky rivets and replace with new. Anything to keep in mind when drilling out the old rivets? What size bite is recommended?

Enjoy the weekend eh!!!

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Anything to keep in mind when drilling out the old rivets? What size bite is recommended?

I found a 3/16 drill bit (sharp) to be the most effective... Your primary concern is not over-drilling the holes too much.
If you are drilling out pop rivets, just put the nose of the drill bit in the little opening...It helps to use a variable speed drill and ease off the speed as you start making headway... The head of the rivet will generally grab and spin off and you will end up collecting several on your drill bit. Then grab a nail punch and knock out the back side. Sometimes the ring of the head will not come off on you will just drill through. In that case, I would just apply the nail punch (sideways at an angle and knock it off) --> then punch out the back...

On other bucked rivets that have the solid head, just use your nail bunch to create a little dimple right in the center of the head...and do the same as above... If you don't put the dimple in it first, your drill bit will float all over the rounded head and you won't get a good drill out.

Hope this helps.

pmc

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks pmc.

I have bucked rivets. The nail punch is a good idea!

I have some time with LA boat this weekend. Will replace 7 rivets and likely sanding.

Have a good one!

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks pmc.

I have bucked rivets. The nail punch is a good idea!

I have some time with LA boat this weekend. Will replace 7 rivets and likely sanding.

Have a good one!

I have 3/16 and 1/4 rivets. Which ones should I be using? The picture may not help a great deal. I placed both rivets into the hole to see which fits better. The head of the 1/4 inch is larger - makes me think I should go with 1/4 inch.

Here is the 1/4 inch

and the 3/16 inch

TIA!!

Have a good one!

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Hi Jeff. The usual size on the aluminum boats I've seen on this website all seem to use 3/16" diameter including those rivets that support structural components. I'm not sure exactly what you're riveting, just based on the pictures, but unless you've got an oversized or damaged hole, I'd stay with 3/16". The 1/4" rivets will require a lot more squeeze power than 3/16".

By the way, I have no experience with closed-end rivets, but I think the pop rivets in your pictures are not closed-end. Jigngrub is a fan of "blind" closed-end rivets, so maybe he should have a look before you put them in. Here's a website with an animation of how a closed-end rivet works. Although it is a 2-piece asssembly like other "pop" rivets, the head of the centre pin or mandrel is totally enclosed, which is different from what you have pictured. - Grandad
Closed-End Rivets | Emhart Americas

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Good eye-G.Dad. Those don't look the closed-end pop rivets that I used (all one piece)...

Also, I also vote for 3/16... Unless you have a pneumatic rivet gun, you are going to wear out yourself (and your gun) pretty quickly on the 1/4.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Good eye-G.Dad. Those don't look the closed-end pop rivets that I used (all one piece)...

Also, I also vote for 3/16... Unless you have a pneumatic rivet gun, you are going to wear out yourself (and your gun) pretty quickly on the 1/4.

Thanks GD and PM. I will take a closer look tonight to determine what kind of rivets I've got.

 

[FOGDUCKER]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Nice job on the Transom skin and knee braces you have made my mind to pull the Iron Duke and stringer drive and go with an outboard!! Yes I will start a resto thread when I get my shop built (when the weather breaks) Can you tell me if the prefab shop had any issues with warping and did the factory rivetted seam on the transom suffer any ill effects during the welding?
Thanks and nice work

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I have 3/16 and 1/4 rivets. Which ones should I be using? The picture may not help a great deal. I placed both rivets into the hole to see which fits better. The head of the 1/4 inch is larger - makes me think I should go with 1/4 inch.

Here is the 1/4 inch

and the 3/16 inch

TIA!!

Have a good one!

Those are not closed end blind rivets, those are open end blind rivets and will surely leak.

You can see what a closed end blind rivet looks like in this video:
1989 Sylvan Boat Rebuild Part 4 - YouTube

The rivets in your pics are wide flange open end blind rivets, they don't make a wide flange closed end blind rivet... just dome head and countersunk head.
closed end blind rivets

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Nice job on the Transom skin and knee braces you have made my mind to pull the Iron Duke and stringer drive and go with an outboard!! Yes I will start a resto thread when I get my shop built (when the weather breaks) Can you tell me if the prefab shop had any issues with warping and did the factory rivetted seam on the transom suffer any ill effects during the welding?
Thanks and nice work

Nope. No issues with warping. The guage is 1/8 thick and I'm really pleased with the results. The original transom skin on this boat was not riveted. Instead the transom is welded. The new transom skin was welded into place. A magnifying glass was used to check the new weld and everything looks good.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Those are not closed end blind rivets, those are open end blind rivets and will surely leak.

You can see what a closed end blind rivet looks like in this video:
1989 Sylvan Boat Rebuild Part 4 - YouTube

The rivets in your pics are wide flange open end blind rivets, they don't make a wide flange closed end blind rivet... just dome head and countersunk head.
closed end blind rivets

Thanks Jig. Yep - blind rivet with dome head. The package doesn't mention anything about closed. Good catch guys and thanks for the heads up.

Forgot to mention the rivets go through the hull and base of a support rib. Probably need about half inch. Or maybe I need to go with a taller grip range?

Enjoy sunny Sunday!

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks Jig. Yep - blind rivet with dome head. The package doesn't mention anything about closed. Good catch guys and thanks for the heads up.

Forgot to mention the rivets go through the hull and base of a support rib. Probably need about half inch. Or maybe I need to go with a taller grip range?

Enjoy sunny Sunday!

I think these are the specs I need to go with?

Body Diameter 3/16"
Grip Range .376 - .500
Max Length .781
Head Style Dome

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I think these are the specs I need to go with?

Body Diameter 3/16"
Grip Range .376 - .500
Max Length .781
Head Style Dome

Don't go with too long of a grip range, this will cause the mandrel to break off outside of the rivet head and leave a stub sticking out.

I'd go with the .126-.250 (1/8-1/4") grip range unless I'm missing something on your material thickness. I think the thickest your 2 pieces combined would be 3/16", probably more like 1/8 or 5/32" though.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Don't go with too long of a grip range, this will cause the mandrel to break off outside of the rivet head and leave a stub sticking out.

I'd go with the .126-.250 (1/8-1/4") grip range unless I'm missing something on your material thickness. I think the thickest your 2 pieces combined would be 3/16", probably more like 1/8 or 5/32" though.

Thanks Jig. Put an order in today for aluminum 3/16 rivets with .126 - .250 grip range with carbon steel mandrel - dome head. These should get me started.

 

[submariner1980]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks Jig. Put an order in today for aluminum 3/16 rivets with .126 - .250 grip range with carbon steel mandrel - dome head. These should get me started.

I wouldn't go with carbon steel mandrel. Carbon steel will be rusted in season. Look for aluminum mandrel.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I wouldn't go with carbon steel mandrel. Carbon steel will be rusted in season. Look for aluminum mandrel.

A little dab of 5200 or marine epoxy in the mandrel hole and rust isn't an issue... and any rust is purely cosmetic after the rivet has been expanded and set.

The steel mandrel closed end rivets are the strongest, try setting some 3/16" dia. with the regular setting tool and one hand.