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1966 Starcraft Holiday Interior Work

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
403
Hi, I'm back, and I'm ready to finish up on a lot of the cosmetic work that's left on my boat. If everything goes well I'd like to spend the next couple of months getting it ready to go to the shop and have the side panels, engine cover, jump seats, and some of the other cosmetics rebuilt/fixed. I hope by the end of December I can have a new floor installed and ready to go. I will not be trying my hand at reupholstering.

With that said, my boat has been performing pretty good since the close of my last project (transom rebuild). It seems to be pretty mechanically sound (for a 50 year old boat with a 30 year old engine in it). One of my favorite upgrades since my last post is my SS Cupholder/rod holders. They are heavy, heavy, duty and come in handy.
 

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66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
403
I'm going to add a stereo to the boat. I don't want anything that's super loud. Basically a good quality stereo with sound equivalent to a factory car stereo would be great. The speakers are going to be mounted in the side panels when they are re-built. Any recommendations are appreciated.
 

classiccat

Captain
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,084
Welcome back! That looks like a fun cruisin' rig! That paint still has a nice shine to it.

I use a portable bluetooth bose speaker and my smart phone...No assembly required! :cool:
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
403
Out with the old. I spent a few hours today unloading the boat, taking out the seats, engine cover, and I removed my transom cap. My first order of business is the transom cap. It has holes, some pretty good dents in it, and I think I've talked myself into going a little wider with it. It's 14.5"now and I'm thinking about going up to about 30" so it's removed and I'm going to have that rebuilt.

I bought a rivet removing drill bit. It is specifically designed for rivet removal. It helps keep the drill from walking on you, and you can set the depth so that the drill only goes through the rivet head. I bought it for solid rivets but I tried it out on a few blind rivets today. It worked great! 👌
 

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SHSU

Ensign
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
955
Yep, I have one of those removal tools as well. They work great if you only have a couple to do. Trick for solid heads is to just a drill punch to give it a start. Just helps prevent that little bit of walking when it starts out.

SHSU
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,146
Yep, I have one of those removal tools as well. They work great if you only have a couple to do. Trick for solid heads is to just a drill punch to give it a start. Just helps prevent that little bit of walking when it starts out.

SHSU
I use a pilot point cobalt bit that I only use for aluminum, no walking and no need for center punch or special tools. My brazier head solids so far have had a nice dimple in the center. and then there's the Friday shift Stacraftsmanship :D

 

SHSU

Ensign
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
955
I use a pilot point cobalt bit that I only use for aluminum, no walking and no need for center punch or special tools. My brazier head solids so far have had a nice dimple in the center. and then there's the Friday shift Stacraftsmanship :D
LOL, I think its a requirement that Friday shift does at least a couple rivets on every boat.

The original rivets on ours didn't have the nice dimple, the replacements did. I think it was a difference between 1100F and 2117T4. I think the 2117T4 had the dimple, but not 100% sure.

SHSU
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
403
A while ago I read somewhere not to fill my boat too much when I do the leak test, too much weight. Instead use a few inches of water, dye it red with food coloring so you can see it leaking, slosh it around, and circle the leaky rivets with a grease pen. Is that still the method people are using for that?
 
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