1966 Starcraft Holiday Interior Work

66Holiday924

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Aug 21, 2017
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Update: The boat ran really good this summer and the interior held up well. I finally ended up getting the truck I ordered last November and I'm really happy with it so far. For what I paid and what the used trucks are going for I have no regrets. It's a light duty F250 XLT with the gas 6.2.

I finally broke open that outdrive I bought last year. I'm following along with the a really good DIY video on youtube. I always wanted to take one apart with no worries. Right now I got it separated, which is pretty straight forward. If you're not familiar with them there are two allen wrench bolts, one you access through the plug above the anode, the other is under the anode and comes out once you remove the anode. Right now I was waiting on my mercruiser retention nut wrench to go any further.
 

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MNhunter1

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I finally ended up getting the truck I ordered last November and I'm really happy with it so far. For what I paid and what the used trucks are going for I have no regrets. It's a light duty F250 XLT with the gas 6.2.
Did you order locally, or from one of the high volume dealers? The 2023 redesign is suppose to be revealed tomorrow. Been waiting to see the changes before I decide to order or look for a 2022 somewhere.
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
586
Did you order locally, or from one of the high volume dealers? The 2023 redesign is suppose to be revealed tomorrow. Been waiting to see the changes before I decide to order or look for a 2022 somewhere.
I ordered from our local dealership. The car salesman said something about the 23s headlights changing. He said they will basically look the same, but something about how they're made is going to make them extremely expensive (for headlights) to replace. I think he said it's basically going to look like the 22s though.
 

66Holiday924

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Aug 21, 2017
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I used Ford's website and built an F150 XLT and a F250 XLT. My trim is doctored up XLT, a step under the Lariat. For me the F250 ended up being cheaper. I advise anybody considering a 1/2 ton to look at the lighter duty, GAS, 3/4-ton trucks. In my case I got a 6.2L versus the 5.0L that comes in the F150, and then you get the heavier duty parts and frame. A 1/2 ton could probably do anything I am ever going to do with it, but this light duty 250 will do it and it won't care about doing it. Less wear and tear, higher longevity on the truck, and it gets comparable gas mileage to the 14-year-old 5.7L Ram I was driving.

Go on Ford's website, build an F150, add a high enough tow package option that gives you tow mirrors and see what it does to the price. Those mirrors and a receiver are standard on a F250. That's included in the starting base price of a 250.
 
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MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Messages
1,077
I used Ford's website and built an F150 XLT and a F250 XLT. My trim is doctored up XLT, a step under the Lariat. For me the F250 ended up being cheaper. I advise anybody considering a 1/2 ton to look at the lighter duty, GAS, 3/4-ton trucks. In my case I got a 6.2L versus the 5.0L that comes in the F150, and then you get the heavier duty parts and frame. A 1/2 ton could probably do anything I am ever going to do with it, but this light duty 250 will do it and it won't care about doing it. Less wear and tear, higher longevity on the truck, and it gets comparable gas mileage to the 14-year-old 5.7L Ram I was driving.
Looks like they are replacing the 6.2L with a 6.8L for MY23, assumed to be a de-bored or de-stroked 7.3L for a more modular platform between the two gas offerings. Reveal is tonight in Kentucky at Churchill Downs. Front end/headlight changes as noted, addition of a bed step behind the cab, and interior upgrades more aligned with the F150. We'll see what they end up pricing them at. Order books suppose to open Oct 20th.

I'm right with you on the F150 vs F250. I have no need for a 3/4 ton truck, but much prefer the looks and price point of the Superduty in the STX or XLT configuration.
 

66Holiday924

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66Holiday924

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I removed some of the decals that were starting to fade. This is a job that I have been dreading for a while. Somebody told me about this rubber wheel that goes on your drill and I am impressed how easy the removal was... So I wanted to share.
 

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66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
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I ended up having the Holiday painted last year. They did a pretty good job. The last thing, that I wanted to do, to finish the boat was replace the rubrail rubber insert. Doing a couple laps around iboats, I've gathered that Wefco 0101G is the correct insert for my rails. I'm a little nervous about pulling the old insert because I can't find a lot of info on how it all connects at the bow. My plan is to basically wait for a really hot summer day, let the existing get soft, bake the new on my blacktop driveway, getting it nice, hot and soft, peel out the old & insert the new.

- Is it as simple as peeling out the old and inserting the new?
- Is it one continuous piece around the bow, or two pieces down the sides that tuck under the bow cap?
- If you've installed the Wefco insert on your boat, are you happy with it?

I'm just trying to see what I'm getting myself into before I dig into it. Any help greatly appreciated!
 
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MNhunter1

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May 12, 2014
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I've seen both, one continuous piece that wraps around the bow, and two separate pieces that terminate at the bow under the cap. I've always re-used the inserts, never had to install new. they rivet to the channel at each end termination and sometimes are a bear to stretch/pull to line up with the existing holes, but not all that difficult with the right tools.

Definitely helps to have the insert warm and lubricated. I usually soak mine in a big tub of hot water and dish soap and feed directly into the channel from there. A second set of hands is nice, one to feed/push and the other to pull from the leading end, but I've done it solo before as well. Also helps the stretch when its warm to pull it into position for securing.
 
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