1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Guys!

Again- being totally new to steering and this boat stuff, shouldn't I have full motor travel from side to side?

Is teleflex the way to go or should I stick with what I have? What is the big difference?

There is a pin hole area on the wheel- you can see it in the one picture- I will try that tonight to get the wheel off?

EZ- I have a bar on my motor- not sure if it's the one they talk about in the fresh water kit.

Arch- There is a wiring diagram on the inside of the uni-charger case. That thing is so old school so even I can understand it The wiring harness or connecting the accessories that I want is where I will be confused
I was thinking about the boards under the cap last night and was thinking the same thing you just said- I am going to keep them there and just add fresh glass to them and half tube supports in between them.

Thanks santo- I will be looking at it a bit closer tonight!

 

[NetMatrix]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

You are doing a great job with this boat. I really like how the hull turned out. Can't wait till it's all put together.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thank netmatrix. Now if I can only get this steering wheel off

I'm out here working on it now and still no go on getting the wheel off!

Back to it.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

After a little persuation with the hammer I'm in business! The wheel is off

back to work.

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Mick, you should be able to wire your accessories to the battery. Take a look at the wiring diagram I have posted on my thread, might be helpful. Things that need power all the time can be wired that way....bilge pump, cig lighter, stereo.... if it needs to be hooked to the ignition switch (gauge lights) there should be a line for that coming off the Unicharger (maybe ), does it have a built in key switch? I bought a fuse block with a ground bus built in, but you can get them separate also. Remember, there is no steel body to ground to, so everything has to have a ground wire unlike a car. I saw a ground buss in your video by the way, maybe you can reuse it. Glad you got the wheel off!

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Well, like I said in a previous thread- I got the wheel off with a little persuasion by by the hammer. There wash a pin on it but it should not have factored into the equation- it was just gunked up and needed to be tapped with some force to get it out.

After the wheel was off I tore out the old 3/8" ply on the driver and passenger side just because they where holes all over them. So I then put in new 3/8" ply with csm on the back and poly, clamped it down, and called it a night. Using poly again was kinda awkward- it's been a while

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So here is the thing- I really don't want to spend another $200 on new steering. But, I would like to here your thoughts on why a teleflex steering system or other type is better than what I have on there now? Sell me on it and why? Thanks

I may start sanding, glassing in the wood that is on there now, and adding extra supports in between the wood that is there now tomorrow.

Good night and thanks!

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Hey Mick,
It's looking good.
I can't sell you on a new steering system. I can't see your old one but with that said, I would hate to see you in the middle of the lake going in circles.
I just think the new steering would be good insurance and they do work a lot smoother the most of the older ones.
My 2 cents.
Good luck.
Bob

 

[86RajunCajun]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Wow man you did a really great job with the hull of that boat! It really looks awsome. I am going to be doing the same to mine soon, and i was wondering something. I didnt see in the thread anywhere how much paint you purchased for your project?

I know you used petit easypoxy, but what was the total amount for the 3 coats to the hull?

Great work and keep it up!

Thanks
RC

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Bob for your input!

Keep the steering info coming!

RC- I'm sure the info is in this thread somewhere Anyway- I used half a can of the undercoater primer(1 coat), and 2 cans of the pettit easypoxy paint(3 coats). Thanks for the compliments- I am very happy with how the hull came out from the glassing to the paint.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

The Teleflex steering will be smoother and easier to turn. If you want to keep the old retro look, then keep the cables. But if you want realiability and ease of use, go the Teleflex route. I'm not sure on your turning on the cable system, but the teleflex system takes, I believe 3 or 4 turns of your steering wheel.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I would like to here your thoughts on why a teleflex steering system or other type is better than what I have on there now? Sell me on it and why? Thanks

The rattling. Oh dear god the rattling. And the squeaking. Sounded like an old screen door. I couldn't WAIT to get all those damn pulleys out of there! Cleaned up the splash well a good bit too not having cables coming from both directions.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

It's a personal choice thing, I guess. I've had boats with both types of steering...modern teleflex and old-fashioned cables and pulleys. Nothing wrong with cables/pulleys and they are easier to maintain...but you do have to check them for slack and tighten them occasionally. Modern Teleflex is almost zero maintenance, but you still have to make sure the cable in the tube/sheath never binds/sticks/etc. back by the motor...when they freeze/stick you have replace the whole cable. You can get cable for the old system at any box store...just make sure it is the right diameter, it should fit down in the pulley groove. Also check your pulleys...they should be well-secured...not just screwed into the gunwhale...and in good shape...replacements are available.

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Mick,

Here is my 2 cents worth...when steering breaks on a boat, the motor turns (all the way to the stop) which, depending on how fast you are going, can get very interesting. Mine was froze up so I didn't have much choice. Teleflex makes two kinds of racks, the old style and the no feed back style. I think you can still get the old style, but I haven't looked for one. The main difference is when you are not turning, you still have to counter the force the motor puts on the the wheel (from the prop trying to "walk the motor" sideways). This isn't a great deal of force, except when turning sometimes. It can get a little tiring after a day of it. I doubt your rude would really be that bad, however I didn't feel like wrestling with Max. So I got the NFB model...it cost a little more and I think is bigger on the back side. But it has a clutch inside that eliminates the feedback, except when you are actually turning the wheel.

 

[osborn159]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

mick, with all the work you have done to this point if it where mine id replace with the teleflex, if the budget allows.
looks like your getting close to float time, good luck, D

 

[86RajunCajun]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Bob for your input!

Keep the steering info coming!

RC- I'm sure the info is in this thread somewhere Anyway- I used half a can of the undercoater primer(1 coat), and 2 cans of the pettit easypoxy paint(3 coats). Thanks for the compliments- I am very happy with how the hull came out from the glassing to the paint.

I prolly looked right past it as i speed read and skim sometimes lol..

When you say "can" is that a quart or a gallon?

Thanks again!
RC

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Quart

 

[NetMatrix]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I noticed that on my other boat the steering wheel is a real pain in the rear to remove. I ended up using a 20lb sledge hammer to remove mine. lol What ideas do you have going for the top cap?

 

[Donkey]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I prolly looked right past it as i speed read and skim sometimes lol..

When you say "can" is that a quart or a gallon?

Thanks again!
RC

Cajun- I am currently in the process of painting my AT as well and the maufacturers recommend 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of epoxy. I purchased a gallon for the entire hull and cap of my 17 footer and have a little less than a half gallon left with one more coat to go.

Mick- The EasyPoxy is amazing. I have the first coat on and it looks like it is ready to go. I have one more coat to go. I bought some of the grit for traction that I am going to put on some of the topside portions with the second coat of primer. I haven't found anyone here willing to recast the emblems but it seems like it can be done at home. I think I may try and GENTLY sand down the spots on mine and se if re-chroming will do the trick.

 

[86RajunCajun]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Hey thanks for the paint info guys...trying to get a feel for how much i am gonna need for my 17 footer, and from the looks of it, 2 quarts color for the hull and 1 for the cap, and 2 quarts for the primer...thanks guys!

RC

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

RC- that sounds about right

donkey- my boat place told me one coat for primer. That came out good for me although I did put on two coats over the bigger filled areas. I could have stopped at two coats on the sides as well, I just did three on the sides to finish up the paint I had left over.
I'm still up in the air on the emblems also? It is going to take some major grinding to get out the pits- trustme. Plus it is next to impossible to get the pits out of the cursive areas. I may bite the $ bullet and have them professinally re-done. I'll let you know what I do when I get back to them.

Matrix- no real changes on the cap other than adding some extra fiberglass supports under the cap and getting a new windshield(mine is in bad shape with the plastic cracking and the aluminum frame is all boogered up with screw holes). I found a place online in New York that you send the windshield to and they make a new frame and use glass to replicate your old one.