wishboneZ51
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2010
- Messages
- 135
Re: 1962 Lonestar "Flamingo" - I finally Started w/pics
Re: 1962 Lonestar "Flamingo" - I finally Started w/pics
Ha Ha, you cant hide from me Mr.Wood
I finally found your rebuild and you are chugging along. If you dont mind me going over some of your work, I hope I can shed some light and help take some of that grunt labor out of your work load....
First and foremost DO NOT SAND METAL, NO NO, very BAD. The only time you ever want to sand metal is for roughing up if the surface is to be painted or welding. If you are looking to polish and make that metal bling bling, you need the help of proffesional buffing bricks which are really cheap. These are what you use to do any sanding so to speak on metal. It starts off at 2000 grit which is actually lubricated and can go up to 4-5000 grit for fine tuning your metal.
What you are looking at when looking at a reflection of metal is the light bouncing off of very minute scratches in the metal. The smaller the scratches the smoother or shinier the metal reflects the light. The deeper the scrathes the less light can bounce off the metal and goes in a multitude of directions. Another problem this causes is the underlining composites of the metal bleeding through such as if you were to get a cut and bleed.
To take paint off the metal surface, you would want to use an AIRCRAFT paint remover which is HIGHLY ACIDIC, very bad for you.So use plenty of protection. Once you follow the directions and hose off the parts you coated. You will have a clean alumium finish prepped and ready for pollishing starting at one end of the spectrum and gradually moving up the grits till you reach the results you are looking for.
I can send you more info, or pictures with what I use if you would like. I have been a metal fabricator in the military for the 8 years I served and went through every welding school there was. I love working with metal but it is really bad for your health and eyes. So I only do it as a hobbie never as a career. I also do all of the detailing for my car club which some guys pay $10,000 for the rims on the Vette's.Yup so I take metal very seriously.
As for your boat, if there is something wrong with your speedometer and you want to stay origional. I will ship you mine which is in perfect order. I purchased all new gauges for mine because I did not think I could get all of the stock ones. But you have almost everything and I think it would be awesome if you kept it origional. You can get the same style switches brand new,I purchased those for my boat. I do want to keep that stuff origional looking.
I think bench seats would look really good for your boat, which makes sense sinse that is what they put in your boat from factory. As for sewing, I am with you on doing it yourself. I know you will do a great job and the quality will be much better than the lower end seat kits on the market. I was looking and was not happy with the selection. So I myself am going to be doing the same thing with mine. Getting a sewing machine that will work for Marine vinyl and going to town.We can go through that adventure together and toss ideas.
No transom work and no deck work, I am really jelouse. But it is great news for you. The motor that came with it, what is the size and is it stock? You said a family member is building it, that was a little while ago, how is that comming? Are you painting the motor as well or slapping it on the old boat?
Ok thats good for now, enough reading for you for atleast one day.
Thanks buddy for all your input on my project.
Re: 1962 Lonestar "Flamingo" - I finally Started w/pics
Ha Ha, you cant hide from me Mr.Wood
I finally found your rebuild and you are chugging along. If you dont mind me going over some of your work, I hope I can shed some light and help take some of that grunt labor out of your work load....
First and foremost DO NOT SAND METAL, NO NO, very BAD. The only time you ever want to sand metal is for roughing up if the surface is to be painted or welding. If you are looking to polish and make that metal bling bling, you need the help of proffesional buffing bricks which are really cheap. These are what you use to do any sanding so to speak on metal. It starts off at 2000 grit which is actually lubricated and can go up to 4-5000 grit for fine tuning your metal.
What you are looking at when looking at a reflection of metal is the light bouncing off of very minute scratches in the metal. The smaller the scratches the smoother or shinier the metal reflects the light. The deeper the scrathes the less light can bounce off the metal and goes in a multitude of directions. Another problem this causes is the underlining composites of the metal bleeding through such as if you were to get a cut and bleed.
To take paint off the metal surface, you would want to use an AIRCRAFT paint remover which is HIGHLY ACIDIC, very bad for you.So use plenty of protection. Once you follow the directions and hose off the parts you coated. You will have a clean alumium finish prepped and ready for pollishing starting at one end of the spectrum and gradually moving up the grits till you reach the results you are looking for.
I can send you more info, or pictures with what I use if you would like. I have been a metal fabricator in the military for the 8 years I served and went through every welding school there was. I love working with metal but it is really bad for your health and eyes. So I only do it as a hobbie never as a career. I also do all of the detailing for my car club which some guys pay $10,000 for the rims on the Vette's.Yup so I take metal very seriously.
As for your boat, if there is something wrong with your speedometer and you want to stay origional. I will ship you mine which is in perfect order. I purchased all new gauges for mine because I did not think I could get all of the stock ones. But you have almost everything and I think it would be awesome if you kept it origional. You can get the same style switches brand new,I purchased those for my boat. I do want to keep that stuff origional looking.
I think bench seats would look really good for your boat, which makes sense sinse that is what they put in your boat from factory. As for sewing, I am with you on doing it yourself. I know you will do a great job and the quality will be much better than the lower end seat kits on the market. I was looking and was not happy with the selection. So I myself am going to be doing the same thing with mine. Getting a sewing machine that will work for Marine vinyl and going to town.We can go through that adventure together and toss ideas.
No transom work and no deck work, I am really jelouse. But it is great news for you. The motor that came with it, what is the size and is it stock? You said a family member is building it, that was a little while ago, how is that comming? Are you painting the motor as well or slapping it on the old boat?
Ok thats good for now, enough reading for you for atleast one day.
Thanks buddy for all your input on my project.
