1950's Wagemaker Wolverine wooden boat restoration ...

[sphelps]

I thought about both of those uses .. Can’t see where it would be needed on the steering cables and there to short to span for a canvas cover .. Seems there is a front and a back because one side if finished nice and slick finished and the other side is unsanded and less finished ..

 

[Bayou Dave]

@Nedl may have the answer.

 

[sphelps]

My shoulders are killing me ! :faint2:
‘But starting to make some progress on the sanding ..
Been using 60 grit with the RO sander mostly . Will finish up with 80 ..
From what I have read you don’t want to go way down past that and make to slick for the varnish ..
Little by little I’ll keep pecking away at it ...

 

[kcassells]

Looks better everyday Sam!

 

[Woodonglass]

I think i'd finish with 100 grit. You'll have a smoother finish AND plenty of BITE for the varnish. If you spray the varnish( I highly recommend you do) then thin it about 10-20% with MS for the first coat. Then Full coats for the next coats. I'd put down at least 3 full coats and maybe 5. What Marine Varnish are you using. I think Epiphanes or ManOWar are two of the best.

 

[sphelps]

I picked up a quart of Epiphanes and some of there brushing thinner . I know it will take a lot more so the door is still open to changing things up if I want .. My original thought was to roll and tip it .. If sprayed will it OP like paint does ?
‘Not much to see but here are a couple pics to at least prove I’m sanding something ..:joyous:

 

[sphelps]

Good lord at the crud on my lens .. :facepalm:
You can really see the bunk board damage on each side ..
I think I am going to epoxy and paint a good bit of the bottom ..Pretty much just what will be under the slat decking ..Thinking a nice light brown or sandy cream looking color would be nice ..

 

[kcassells]

Looking like a diamond in the rough! Tough calls to make for final finishes Sam. I like that wood look.

 

[mickyryan]

Good lord at the crud on my lens .. :facepalm:
You can really see the bunk board damage on each side ..
I think I am going to epoxy and paint a good bit of the bottom ..Pretty much just what will be under the slat decking ..Thinking a nice light brown or sandy cream looking color would be nice ..

i had a good color if i can find it it was like a mahogony like the old color they used to use on wooden boats kinda red/brown but looked awesome

 

[archbuilder]

Looks really nice Sam! What is OP?

 

[sphelps]

Yep Kc , this is some tough sanding it sure seems like .. Really hard to get it down to bare wood .
‘And on the veneer it still looks a little dingy and spotty/blotchy looking . May have to stain idk ...

 

[sphelps]

Orange peel ....

 

[sphelps]

Micky I was thinking more light brown and not so reddish brown ..
I got it in my head and will know pretty much when I see it ..
Yall just don’t know how close I came to painting the bottom yellow instead of white ..:lol:

 

[mickyryan]

only reason i went with the reddish brown was because it matched my stained mahogany luan id go with whatever closely matches your natural woods final color

 

[zool]

U may get some peel or runs, but u need to let each coat dry fully and sand between coats, so you u can keep it a check...Its air cured like oil paint. You can touch up any runs with good brush between coats too, to save some work. If u dont sand, the next coats will slide down and run. Also, sand horizontally, to create shelves to hold it up on verticals.

Looks like u just built it Sam!

 

[Woodonglass]

That's why I suggested multiple coats you want to cut back on the volume on your gun and cut back on the psi. That will help the vertical areas from running. I don't have much OP when spraying it. Try to spray with low humidity if that's possible in Flow-REE-Duh!!! I spray mine at about 30 psi. You can roll n' roll it just like paint and get great results. I'd recommend using a TouchUp gun. They have a 1mm tip so you get a Ultra fine mist. My HF touch up gun works great for Varnish.

 

[zool]

I'm a fan of the HF touch up gun too Mike....I heavily thin whatever product and lay xtra layers....and only have to sand to keep it level.

 

[sphelps]

But what about the varnish at full strength.. Last few layers should not be thinned right ?

 

[zool]

The main benefit I see for spraying is it gets in all the nooks and corners well. You may want to brush apply the final coat(s) undiluted to get a hard shell finish.

Im painting a large concrete barn right now, I sprayed it originally to change it from white to red and get in all the cracks, now the final coat im doing with just a brush...nice and thick..it coming out great.

 

[oldrem]

My HF touch up gun sprayed Helmsman Spar Urethane full strength at 30 PSI with no issues, so would think it would handle the varnish just fine