1910 trophy Bayliner

[fisheymikey]

its not for cheaping out... but want to know my optiions. if i have to i will i was just wondering what to do witht the stuff to my disposal.

its always best to have someone close buy to use the stuff he has

thanks.

 

[fisheymikey]

i went to NOah's site but not sure what i need i dont see 1708 i do see Biaxial 12oz or 18oz.

is that what i need?

Arawak u have the same boat like i do... how much you figure i would need of 1708? a full roll 50''

thanks

Mike

 

[fisheymikey]

After researching everywhere to understand what i need for stringers and transom. i came to undestand what im looking for is 18oz double bias 0/45 fiberglass for strength.

Am i Correct?

hope someone will share some light on this

thanks

 

[Corjen1]

I used 1708 biaxial on my stringers..sent you a PM

 

[Arawak]

i went to NOah's site but not sure what i need i dont see 1708 i do see Biaxial 12oz or 18oz.

is that what i need?

Arawak u have the same boat like i do... how much you figure i would need of 1708? a full roll e

Here you go.


I like the tape better than having to cut strips for tabbing. There may be other places you can order from in Canada, I havent done an exhaustive search.

Follow the directions in Woodonglass' signature to calculate how many yards you need. I use 12oz 45/45 without mat, since I'm using epoxy, so you can't follow my layup schedule. I went with the 8" tape myself... I think that width would work for you, but it would depend on how you want to approach it.

 

[fisheymikey]

I used 1708 biaxial on my stringers..sent you a PM

thanks for the info! but i was looking more around canada.

ok i will try and find the info that WOG has discribed.

thanks!

for a second there i was feeling ignored... my gf does enough of that(lol)

 

[Woodonglass]

How long and how tall are your stringers? Are you using poly or epoxy?

 

[fisheymikey]

im going to be using iso poly.

thats the other big question... i will post the diagram of the original and please use reference the pictures as per you ideas.

the total lenght of the stringers are 14 feet long and 2 bulkheads. as per reading a few posts everyones seams to want to have full lenght stringers. and scarf the joints.

now in regards of the bulkheads should i make interlocking joint for the bulkheads and the stringer or should i do like the original?

thanks

 

[Arawak]

I'm going to do the four stringers first, then butt the bulkheads in. The bulkheads are short and will be primarily be under compression loads anyway, so no need to compromise the stringers by cutting into them for an interlocking joint.

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree. Keep your stringers Whole and butt the bulkheads up to them. I'd guess-ti-mate you have about 30 sq. ft of Stringers and bulkheads to cover.

 

[fisheymikey]

excelent!

i will be purchasing plywood next week. i just came across marine plywood for 99$ and my other option is home depot gs1 acx for 45.99

after caluculating i wood need 2 plywoods.

100$ what say you?

thanks

 

[Arawak]

Having built a boat from it (meranti marine ply) I can tell you it's wonderful stuff to work with. You wouldn't want to use anything else for the hull. But, given that you are going to cover it in fiberglass, I don't think it's worth the extra $100.

If you can find decent quality exterior for ply, 7 plies or more in a 1/2" panel and not too many voids, I think you will make as good a stringer as you would out of marine ply.

I suggest you consider titebond 3 for gluing up the stringers.

 

[Woodonglass]

Ditto ^^^^!!!!

 

[fisheymikey]

Gentlemen! its sanding time! i know i know its the time ive been reading everyone hates.

i dont have a dr sander but have a belt and strong orbit sander. will that do the job? what grit to use?

as per the pics below all stringers and bulkheads removed.i have 2 more questions

were the stringers were remove i have a nice 1/4 inch channel to relay the stringers on top also to use a guide is that ok?

transom is weird im removing the old wood but CSM is also coming off di i remove all trasom with sander or chisel

thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey FM, you need to read some of the other threads. The weapon of choice is a 4 1/2" grinder or 7" one. Resin coated grinding discs, tyvek suit, full face respirator etc... Beltsander or R/0 sander will take you a long time and you'll prolly end up burning em both up. The FG dust is brutal. You need to blow out your tools frequently to keep em from getting clogged and burning up. You need to grind the channels down to smooth clean fresh glass and the transom needs to be clean of ALL wood and CSM and down to clean Fresh glass as well. In order for the new glass to adhere well you gotta get her ground down to clean fresh glass!!!! You got LOTS of Hot, Sweaty, Itchy work ahead of ya now!!!!

 

[fisheymikey]

wog thanks for the reply.. the only thing i have been doing is reading and learning thanks iboats!!! but finding the actual postings maybe i just did not get lucky.

did see mr Friscoboater now im right as rain. 41/2 angle grinder with half dozen 36 grit wheel should be good to go. glad you warned me about the tool thing ill get the compressor going and blowing my tools.

thx again

 

[Arawak]

As I mentioned before, you can save a lot of grinding with a flat wrecking bar and a big chisel. Those "channels" you have left need to go. You can see the coarse roving of the hull underneath... that's what you want to tab to, not the halfassed tabbing job Bayliner laid up on top of it. Get your chisel in between that tabbing that's still sitting proud and the hull material and tap away with the hammer.... once it starts to delaminate you can use your wrecking bar and see how easily it peels away. It also shows you where to stop for the bits you do have to grind out.

You'll still need that grinder... but this will get rid of maybe 75% of what you would otherwise have to grind out.

 

[rickryder]

+1 on getting as much of the glass off before grinding..... I still itch 3 years later :beguiled:

 

[fisheymikey]

As I mentioned before, you can save a lot of grinding with a flat wrecking bar and a big chisel. Those "channels" you have left need to go. You can see the coarse roving of the hull underneath..

thats what i thought for the channels but believe me the rest is solid like a rock i did find 2 places were it layed terribly on the top. that i will delaminate then grind.

i tryed with chisel even with my dremel.... nothing i mean its like cutting concrete but im gonna get her done,,

looking to buy a cheap grinder for the work

 

[Arawak]

i tryed with chisel even with my dremel.... nothing i mean its like cutting concrete but im gonna get her done,,

I don't think you understand what I mean. You're not trying to cut through it. You're trying to drive a wedge into the seam between the original tabbing and the hull.

Kijiji is a good source for a used grinder.