1910 trophy Bayliner

[fisheymikey]

well i had a very good day...i just scored 150$ 5gallon Vynester resin Swancor ! after reading best resin out there. the guy over ordered and saw the barrel Brand new. also found 18 3/4 stitch mat over here in Quebec no one has even heard about 1708. 10$ the yard. but the only concern it is 0/90 does that compromise the structure?

The only thing believe it or not is the sanding wheels. i cannot find anywhere 36 grit for my grinder. checked Homedepot Reno depot etc...

cant believe dont have it here

well maybe ill just order it somewhere on the web

 

[Arawak]

but the only concern it is 0/90 does that compromise the structure?

For the tabbing, you'll have to cut your strips on a 45 degree angle so that all the fibers are crossing the fillet at an angle. Otherwise half of them are running parallel to the stringer and taking none of the load. 45/45 tape is sooo much easier....

The only thing believe it or not is the sanding wheels. i cannot find anywhere 36 grit for my grinder. checked Homedepot Reno depot etc...

cant believe dont have it here

well maybe ill just order it somewhere on the web

Canadian Tire has it. 3 in stock at Maisonneuve. Princess Auto too, if you have those in Quebec.

 

[fisheymikey]

ok Arawak i will buy the tape. I have a great price on CSM sould i buy the Biax with or without CSM. do i save a ton of time or better work? and what size you recomend? 6.8 or 10

sorry for all the newbie question i have read a lot but dont know what to follow..

 

[Arawak]

I'd recommend 1708 6" wide tape. 18oz biaxial with mat is the same stuff. If you can't get it in Quebec then either order online from Noah's or see if they have it in Vermont and make a road trip.

Noah's would cost you about $175-ish delivered taxes included for 100 yds which I think would do all your tabbing. Canadian dollars, eh, hoser?

You can still use that 0/90 for glassing over the transom. And just CSM to cover the tops of the boxes when you're all done.

 

[fisheymikey]

sorry for the newbie question but if i buy 6 tape how am i supposed to layup the fiber? 2 inches on the hull and the remaining on the stringer? then overlap top to the bottom. im trying to reference the layup like WOG has described for the stringers. also is it more sound to do a one shot over the top with a bigger piece?

price is relatively the same... i need 15y 50'' or 100y of 6'' tape. so what im looking for some guidance. btw i do have some room for error

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, from your previous pics, your stringers appear to be almost 6" tall. If that's true, then I don't think 6" tape is gunna work. It might work for the 1st tabbing but not for the final. This drawing shows and explains how I recommend tabbing the stringers to the hull. Of course it's just my opinion and you're free to do it any way you see fit. Others may have a different approach. Using this method you'd need a minimum of 12" of fabric or CSM to get the job done. I think you're using epoxy...Right!!!

 

[fisheymikey]

No sir... ill be using vynelster resin i got it for 150 5gallon! Ouupiii

Does the make a difference withe layup and actually the stringer is goung to be mor like 10"

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, I remember now you're using the 1808 with the Stitched on CSM. As you can see in this pic...

the weave runs @ a 45 degree angle so when you roll it off the roll to get the length you need and then cut a 12" width you'll still have the fibers running in a 45 degree orientation which is what provides the strength. I would highly recommend building a Glassing table with a roll bar to put you glass fabric on so you can roll it out and make your cuts. There's some examples of those on the forum and if I can find a pic I'll post it for you.. Any whooooo tha'ts how I'd recommend doing it now. Use the 1808 and cut 10" strips for the first tabbing and then a 18" strip for the last one and do it like the drawing shows. Hope this makes sense. Make sure to precoat the wood stringer with resin first and then once it tacks up put on more resin and then lay the first tabbing and apply more resin to wet it out. It's best to do the next layer of glass immediately after the first to get a chemical bond "Wet on Wet" laminations. If not it's ok. Anything within a couple of days is still a good layup with no need to scuff the glass.

 

[Arawak]

Well, from your previous pics, your stringers appear to be almost 6" tall. If that's true, then I don't think 6" tape is gunna work. It might work for the 1st tabbing but not for the final.

Yeah, I guess you're right. I used 8" myself, it worked well.

 

[fisheymikey]

I have to say i have mixed emotions...

im very happy with Arawak recomendation to use a chisel and prybar to delaminate all the unwated glass. But i did a boubou... as you could see in the pic i did a whole. what would be the way i should go about repairing this.. or will it be a weakspot and could possible come back??

that for the advice

 

[Woodonglass]

FM not sure if it's me or what but the pics not working for me. I assume you mean you've put a hole in the outer skin of the transom. If that's true then That IS a BIG NON ISSUE!!! Even if it was the Size of a Basketball it could be fixed fairly easily. At any rate it's nothing to worry about at this juncture keep on with the tear out and we'll worry about it when you're ready for the re-install.

 

[fisheymikey]

sorry about that here is the pic. 2'' buy 1/4''

next week is transom and stringer time.

i saw a few youtube video dont feel very convinced in their manner ill wait for my fellow Iboaters to chime in.

good night guys

FM

 

[Woodonglass]

LOL!!! Tha't is NOTHING to worry about!!! Just keep on Truckin!!!

 

[fisheymikey]

the only thing i should add is i am amazed! i see all the preperation of each of us DIY's restoration project and see the materials we are putting in the build. this boat held up for almost 30yrs and did not have a hull failure. the only used CSM im guessing with a kind of gun that would spray the resin and csm. Now everyone is using a kind of 1708 building technique after reading is not even in same ballpark of csm construction. Does that mean i could pass the hull of this boat over to my grand kids? hahaha. im just very glad having you fellow Boaters to guide me in this build.

Friday i should have all the delamination done and hopefully the most of the grinding also.

 

[Woodonglass]

They used what they had at the time + what was the most economical for the build. Build Cheap...Sell HIGH!! Formula for "Makin Money"!!!!:eagerness:

 

[Arawak]

the only thing i should add is i am amazed! i see all the preperation of each of us DIY's restoration project and see the materials we are putting in the build. this boat held up for almost 30yrs and did not have a hull failure. the only used CSM im guessing with a kind of gun that would spray the resin and csm. Now everyone is using a kind of 1708 building technique after reading is not even in same ballpark of csm construction.

Yeah, it is impressive when you see some of the shoddy methods and materials that have held up for 30 years. As I've said before, these Bayliners are not the best built boats... far from it... but they're built well enough.

Sorry to see you got a hole, but as Wood says, it's not a big deal. Once you're all done you can sand the exterior, fair it, and gelcoat over it. No one will ever see it.

Amazing how the old tabbing peels away once you get under it, eh?

 

[fisheymikey]

how well it peels off is a understatement... i would say 90% was easy some spots you could easily see it was done right.

Good thing is i got a lot of work done. all crappy fiberglassing is gone. i just need to sand a4-5 hours and im ready.

i have a new dilemma.. I would nee to make a decision relatively quickly because this week i figure im starting the transom.

im mostly a saltwater fisherman and go 5-10 miles out. i want to build a outboard bracket for a single engine. the weight is 300lbs.

My concern is the transom i have is only 24'' wide and 24long. has anyone tried making one with a transom recessed like mine? i want to build it with plywood and fiberglass. tried looking for a diagram or schematics without avail.

any help will be greatly appreciated. also i would like to reinforce the transom.

thx

 

[kcassells]

Wish I could help you there. I've been thinking along those lines also of an extended motor bracket. Lots of pros. On cons I think if you have a self bailing floor/cockpit then you may have to compensate for the transom floor drain locations cause of the new weight distribution. meaning higher which also may mean a new height for the new floor that prior.
Just a newb...what do I know? Input by others appreciated.

 

[fisheymikey]

I hope someone will share some light on this

 

[Woodonglass]

Well FM, is it doable, Probably but you'd have to do some modifications IMHO.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otNYDm51Trk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvcksCz0OBM

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...d-fiberglass-outboard-bracket-sane-49790.html
Post #7

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...pyder-26-restoration-outboard-conversion.html



Most often seen this done on I/O boats but you could prolly make it work on your boat too.