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  1. S

    1982 MR 180

    Please make sure they are STAINLESS. Not trying to be argumentative, just that when I researched these, I had zero confidence in aluminum blind rivets for anything structural, they are very weak, comparatively. The stainless were about the strength of solid hard aluminum rivets. The...
  2. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    I wanted to use the winch eye, but it would have caused the bow tip to scrape the hoisting rope while flipping. My hoist frame isn't very sturdy. I sent the eye all the way through every front layer, so it picked the sheet metal behind the cap as well. Still not the strongest, but the empty...
  3. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    My only hesitation in drilling was which bit would be sharp enough, haha. Also kinda a sad state of my drill bit collection, at least they get used. Made progress today, sanded half the bottom up to my ratchet strap, all paint sanded. Then abrasive wheeled away all paint surrounding rivet...
  4. S

    1984 starcraft islander

    Maybe try a stiff bristled steel hand brush?
  5. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Got the boat flipped. Added a couple of 2x6 across the trailer, lifted the front, and just rolled and slid it. Lots of space underneath for any interim interior work (going to weld the trailer tilt shut and add some bracing). Here's some pictures of the setup, took two people. I did have to...
  6. S

    1978 SS 16 restoration

    Really interested in how the gunnels turn out, planning to do something similar to mine to cover all the 50 years of drilled holes.
  7. S

    1984 starcraft islander

    I wouldn't expect the solvents to melt the foam, but if its polyurethane foam, xylene should degrade it, possibly allowing it to release easier. This is assuming that you are removing all foam, I'll admit I haven't read closely enough to see if that was the case here or not. Either way, make...
  8. S

    1984 starcraft islander

    I'd recommend a nylon cup brush, the bristles are easier to work in than wire, and don't shed like wire. For something relatively soft like foam, the wider bristles should make quicker work as well. A pressure washer might work as well. Possibly pretreat with xylene or acetone.
  9. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Finished gluviting the inside of the boat today. Focused mainly on the seams that leaf to exterior, as well as rivets on the main hull sheet. I also gave every rib rivet and seam a coating, but don't expect these to accomplish much due to distance from exterior. I bought the 2 lb size of...
  10. S

    1978 Starcraft Supersport 16' OB Restoration

    My corrosion was all the way through. I filled with jb weld and used a patch on both sides so that the jb weld on both sides was supported. With how weak the metal there now was, it just makes me feel better knowing that any forces will go from solid original metal, through a well supported...
  11. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    I may revise my plan tomorrow, I trusted it with the idea that there would be a metallic mesh in the matrix, not so much on its own. I think for the lower holes, I may plug with an epoxy coated screw from the inside, that way I can still cut it flush and smooth the outside. For those located...
  12. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Patched the transom holes that won't be used with pc7. It has some kind of fiber in it, maybe kevlar? Not sure that I trust it without backing nonetheless. I tried to embed some aluminum window screening on the inside, but couldn't get it to stay put due to the curve. I think I will try...
  13. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Since this will be a trailered boat and currently only planned for freshwater, bilge moisture would be the biggest issue. In my mind it's just a generally good idea to have a dry bilge that I am planning to leave a few air channels in my foam to keep air moving when not on the water, my guess...
  14. S

    1984 starcraft islander

    Any foam tightly packed will help with sound as it will damp any vibrations and take the sharpness/clangyness out of it. None of them will truly deaden the sound, just change the tone. To deaden sound you need something with mass, like heavy rubber, but you also don't want extra weight on your...
  15. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Galvanic corrosion is a lingering thought. From what I've read, stainless fasteners in aluminum structure tends to be okay due to the difference in surface area. Aluminum fasteners in stainless base metal would likewise not be okay. That said, between the 5200 as sealant, gluvit on the...
  16. S

    1984 starcraft islander

    I've been wire wheeling my boat during restoration mostly using what I have on hand, which is carbon steel. Most spots I clean and then coat with whatever my plan is, but some spots don't get coated for awhile. Those spots that get left have yet to show any signs of embedded steel particles...
  17. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    I would have preferred rivets but not at the price of a true rivet gun. Stainless screws should be stronger as long as they don't loosen up, but they absolutely require sealant since they don't swell to the hole diameter.
  18. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    For those looking for an instructional video of the patch plates, its from 2:40 on in this video, especially around 4:10. Though he forgot the mayo...
  19. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    I finally made some progress. Used the rest of my tube of 5200 to make the patch sandwich. Did run out before the transom screws, used epoxy putty for that. Also tightened up the few loose rivets that I found, or attempted anyway. Just need to finish up the gluvit then I can flip and paint.
  20. S

    1978 Starcraft Supersport 16' OB Restoration

    I am patching similarly right now. I just clamped my patch plates in a vise and bent and checked until they matched the hull. If it isn't perfect, the patch sandwich should force everything to conform anyway. Then I bent the edges in slightly so that when I install, the edges will be sure to...
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