1984 starcraft islander

jdvasher

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 10, 2019
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370
Foam is actually not structural on a tin boat. Older StarCraft actually used styrofoam sheets. Some people use pool noodles under the floor, some use blue or green insulation board. Any option had the ability to create enough flotation to keep it mostly above the surface
I disagree, foam adds a lot of structure to the boat as well as sound deadening. I was on the fence with my build but after going with poured foam I definitely would do it again.
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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370
the problem with foam stems from lack of proper storage and freezing temps. if you leave ways for the water to seep out and keep it stored properly covered you should never have any issues with foam. freezing water is what destroys the cells
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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37,827
Agreed , it is part of the structure.-----Not sure if this StarCraft has a lot of rivets.----In big waves you do not want the hull flexing and loosening any rivets !!
 

Neschenbrenner

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 10, 2020
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Does anyone keep these aluminum starcrafts at a dock in the water during the summer? I feel like it would be much harder to keep the water out in the water.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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May 12, 2014
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Does anyone keep these aluminum starcrafts at a dock in the water during the summer? I feel like it would be much harder to keep the water out in the water.
I've only left mine docked for a few days while on vacation. Bilge pump with float switch wired direct to battery as a minimum, but I'd invest in a boat lift if I planned to do it regularly. Otherwise, I'd plan to keep it on the trailer when not in use.

I've also seen some pretty significant damage to docked boats when a storm rolls in.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
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738
Does anyone keep these aluminum starcrafts at a dock in the water during the summer? I feel like it would be much harder to keep the water out in the water.
I would not unless you do a VERY good job sealing possible leak areas in the hull and lake test it for leaks without floor present for visibility.

Even then with the dock spot with a cover, there are lots of risks with being permanently docked.

Now more than ever I would suggest keeping it on a trailer in a secure location due to weather conditions bad storms are getting worse unless you have a big spending budget $+20k or more for newer replacement.

Even an overnight stay I would want a bilge pump with bypass float switch wired in.
 

jdvasher

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Does anyone keep these aluminum starcrafts at a dock in the water during the summer? I feel like it would be much harder to keep the water out in the water.
I'm not sure about other people's boats but I had mine sealed up perfectly tight. Well at least before I got crushed by a tree. It didn't leak even the tiniest bit of water no matter how long it was out
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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20230311_162223-jpg.376251
View attachment 376252anyone familiar with these evinrude engines? I think that where I will start try and find our if these are serviceable.

Oh man that one's got twins. Nice SC projects that have all their parts is very rare now days. Lots of hard work ahead starting with the total gut and on to hull repairs.
 

Neschenbrenner

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 10, 2020
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76
So I got a battery today trying to sort out the cables. Anyone know what the black box is mounted to the transom? There's on on both sides has some big cables coming out of it. I would take a picture but it's dark in the barn.
 

Neschenbrenner

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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So I'm struggling on figuring out which cables are which here. Any way I can figure out witch cables are negative and which are positive with a meter. The colors have faded away.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
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So I'm struggling on figuring out which cables are which here. Any way I can figure out witch cables are negative and which are positive with a meter. The colors have faded away.

Can you be more specific on the wires you are referring to?

Are you speaking about the trim system wires or the main wire harness plug that goes to the helm/control box?
 

Neschenbrenner

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 10, 2020
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Can you be more specific on the wires you are referring to?

Are you speaking about the trim system wires or the main wire harness plug that goes to the helm/control box?
There's just a pile of cables laying loose where the battery was. Not sure which ones are positive which ones are negative. I'll try and get a picture tomorrow.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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There's just a pile of cables laying loose where the battery was. Not sure which ones are positive which ones are negative. I'll try and get a picture tomorrow.

I would definitely be buying you a test lead pair that will reach at least 10 feet or longer, more likely 20 ft would probably be ideal.

A key bit of advice, it is best to test for resistance and continuity with the battery completely disconnected to identify wires you are not sure of what they are.

Some may say otherwise, but I would have the factory service manual around and disconnect the outboard wire harness connector from the motor and individually identify the wires if they are faded and label them with something that will stay on the wires.

There are some ignition and charging components on your outboards that will get fried if they get battery voltage or higher sent to them. (Power packs, rectifier/regulator if battery installed the wrong way)

This is an easy job to do if you have a digital multimeter, unplug any batteries completely, get you some wire labels, have long test leads, and have either the factory service manual or an accurate wire diagram image present/available for the outboard motor wire harness setup.

One last thing, at the end of checking a factory wire harness assembly/group, make sure to check that you don't have any shorts across wires once you check a wire harness assembly.
test leads.jpg
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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37,827
??----Use a meter.----The + cable goes to the solenoid.----The - cable goes to the block.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
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738
??----Use a meter.----The + cable goes to the solenoid.----The - cable goes to the block.
Racer, I was mainly referring about the 8 pin harness connector wire assembly that goes to the helm.

If what the OP is saying applies to those wires being faded and looking like garbage at the helm, one would not want to make the mistake of accidently sending battery positive voltage to the kill circuit of the power pack.
 

Neschenbrenner

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 10, 2020
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Anyone have any tips for getting the foam out of the hard to reach areas? Was thinking about trying a pressure washer.
 

Sharpie223

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 24, 2021
Messages
166
I'd recommend a nylon cup brush, the bristles are easier to work in than wire, and don't shed like wire. For something relatively soft like foam, the wider bristles should make quicker work as well.

A pressure washer might work as well. Possibly pretreat with xylene or acetone.
 
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