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  1. S

    1978 SS 16 restoration

    I think the purpose made cleaners are just various acids. Star brite lists hydrochloric and oxalic on the sds. The vinegar I bought is 30% (gloves and goggles mandatory!!) from home depot, distilled from a grocery store is 5%. I haven't actually used it yet but I will be trying it diluted to...
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    1978 SS 16 restoration

    Just to remove oxidation I'll be using wire brush, sandpaper, and an industrial strength vinegar. If you want to polish it shiny, I would use progressively finer sandpaper, at least to 1000 grit, then polish with mother's mag
  3. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Maybe I'll use aluminum tube mounted under the driver's console on the back, and when the center deck is folded up into position, the tube slides toward and lock into the passenger console, under the two deck panels to support them. The tube would slide similar to the latch on a public...
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    68 Offshore restoration

    Not much happens during the week since it would be difficult to fund this without employment, but I do a lot of thinking through the designs. Current topic in mind is the bow deck. I like how the center is open as it allows better security/comfort of any passengers up there, sitting upright...
  5. S

    1978 SS 16 restoration

    You could probably make a tilt wheel without too much work...
  6. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    The original spars I will use rivnuts in, so I will be able to torque screws down tight. The edges will be 1/8" thick aluminum angle, I will likely use rivnuts there as well, but might also just tap it. I'm considering using aluminum bushings glued into the deck as well, which would allow...
  7. S

    1978 SS 16 restoration

    You'll probably have to mock something up to see how you like it. I would have two (minor) concerns with angling the wheel, and neither may actually matter. My understanding is that you would tilt the wheel so that the top is closer to the bow than the bottom. First thought, if you tilt the...
  8. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    That makes sense. I think I will leave only enough clearance for knee brace and pump hose. I was already planning to install a leak detector both fore and aft, so I should know if there is significant water getting in, and where. Since my deck will be screwed down and not riveted, I will...
  9. S

    1978 SS 16 restoration

    That red color looks awesome. Maybe I missed it, but are you also going to paint the outside sides red or a different color?
  10. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Got deck boards rough cut today. I will still need to jigsaw out the center of the transom, too tight of an inside curve for a skilsaw. I will use a belt sander to sand the edges the last 1/8"-1/4", and then a router to cut the bevel in the edges of the front deck panels. I havent yet cut any...
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    68 Offshore restoration

    My thru-hull stainless rivets will be getting epoxy coated,so should create a barrier from galvanic corrosion, which with stainless should be limited anyway. If some moisture does seep past, I think it will still be less than uncoated. I live in eastern Washington, not desert dry but dryer...
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    68 Offshore restoration

    Also, I greatly appreciate the advice/experience. As an engineer I like to check further into recommendations, nothing against the person giving them, just interest in the subject. And I definitely have the tendency to push the bounds of accepted wisdom.
  13. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Here was my thought process for rivet selection, not to convince anyone on my choices, but to gives others in the future some more to think about. The originals in my case are dimpled, indicating a 2117 alloy (or at least a hardened aluminum alloy). These have lasted 50+ years on this boat...
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    68 Offshore restoration

    Well, thanks to some inconsiderate people injecting some well reasoned points in this thread, reinforcement tabs are on pause until 2117 rivets arrive. My neighbor has an air hammer I can borrow and I will just need to buy a brazier nose for it. These will replace what I have drilled out, the...
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    68 Offshore restoration

    When I first looked into rivets, 18-8 closed ends appeared to be stronger than solid aluminums. Since then I have found better data that would indicate if the original rivets are 2xxx (I don't remember the exact alloy, it was a hardened rivet though) series, the 18-8s will still be stronger in...
  16. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    That's interesting. I was under the impression that all 18'-ers started with the same hull and were built up from there. That's only based on several old ads that I've found and other internet speculation.
  17. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    Thinking about it some more, I might just go with a fully painted bottom and bunks, and just plan that some paint will wear off over time. My original plan was to paint with kbs maxx (2k polyurethane paint) in smoke grey. If I am already figuring it will be worn down anyway (durability being...
  18. S

    68 Offshore restoration

    I got tabs bent and started to drill out chine rivets that will need to be picked up by the tabs. Once this thin metal has it edges folded and the bottom inch bent, they become very stiff. Stainless closed end rivets will replace the solid aluminums that I drilled out. Aluminum closed ends...
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    Bunk material and paint

    I was planning to use standard lumber, the bunks are simple to replace if needed, but also I don't see treated helping any with cracking from swell/dry cycles. So you use UHMW on painted aluminum? How long have you had that setup and has it caused any wearing of the paint?
  20. S

    Bunk material and paint

    To get it out of the way at the start, I have searched the topic a bit and never really found long term conclusions. Anyway... My trailer currently has carpeted bunks which I plan on replacing. My boat is an aluminum starcraft and will be painted with epoxy primer and 2k polyurethane...
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