Just for the record, I think you're playing with fire. Just my opinion though.
Playing around with engine cooling is just too risky.
So much damage can occur in such a short time.
One thing in particular, lowering the volume of the hose feeding the muffs is a bad idea.
The pressure of...
So, the boat is out of the water and just a little residual water puddle in the bottom.
I've never had to look down there myself, but that seems to make sense.
I assume the boat is in the water. Correct?
As you know, water seeks it's level.
How high is the water level down there? Is it level with the waterline of the boat?
I believe water will enter through the drive and level itself in the lower part of the exhaust Y pipe.
That's my take...
Definitely make sure your battery is up to the task. Sometimes they seem good, but a starter can draw a lot of current and strain a weak battery and that will give you that clicking you describe. Could also be a corroded connection restricting the flow that will cause the clicking.
Could be a...
I'm going to tag along to see what the experts might say.
But, for me, I wouldn't do it.
It might cause the good flowing engine to starve for cool water.
It is by far more detrimental for marine engines when they overheat than it is for our land vehicles. And damage can happen real fast...
A really bad connection or as stated....reverse polarity.
On going with reversed polarity.
Make sure that the wire that is supposed to be positive is in fact positive.
Touch the negative lead of your meter to a different negative source, like the negative battery terminal, your engine...
That story reminded me of my first car, a 1969 Pontiac Tempest.
It wasn't the choke that gave me problems, it was the shifter for the "3 on the tree". It was a standard transmission with the column shifter (3 on the tree).
The linkage would jamb up. I had to get out, open the hood and giggle the...
Is it hard to start?
Like said, my 4.3 would crank and crank and crank before it would fire up. This was in the hot summer heat.
In fact, It was so bad that it would sometimes trip the 100 amp breaker I have mounted on the battery.
The choke plate wasn't closing. I adjusted it and now...
I would disconnect the shore power and remove the charger to narrow down if it's coming from that or the 12v DC.
Agree that it sounds like a grounding issue or a loose or corroded negative somewhere.
My 4.3L Mercruiser is real difficult to start without the choke, even in scorching hot weather.
My choke was out of adjustment. It wasn't closing and it was a real problem starting. It was a real stress for the starting battery.
Adjusted it and now it fires right up.
Since you are still having overheat issues, are you sure you didn't wipe out the impeller by using a tub of water instead of muffs?
Before assuming it's the water pump, maybe confirm it's not the impeller.
Could also be a clog somewhere as others have stated.
Rubber parts from an old...
Keep those tubes clear of any debris.
If they clog, clean them out with a snake (plumber's or electrician's) or a wire coat hanger if it's long enough.
Yep, like anything else....if you're worried, just make yours look harder to steal than the next guy's.
Or, make sure you have good insurance and don't worry at all.
If they really want it, it will be gone.
Just to let you know, boats are not like cars with respect to model and engine.
You can have a Sea Ray 180 with various drivetrains. Plus it might not even have the original drivetrain.
It's best to post up the engine and drive serial numbers when you have questions.
I do have a good relationship with the dealer.
Mentioning how many vehicles I've bought there has saved me money on purchases before. Plus I always squeeze them for freebies like winter floor liners whenever I purchase a vehicle.