The reasons I see not to is that it uses more resources, wood, glue, new longer bolts, if it has them you'll have to move the side brackets, the bottom bracket wont fit the additional width if it has one and adds more weight for no purpose really.
What little I know about glass boats I can tell you have 2 options, cut and repair after the transom replacement or pull the cap off. Most likely the stringers are rotten too, lots of work ahead I'm afraid.
Yeah I almost felt bad for a minute when I was stripping the Chris Craft donor but it was rotten to the core. Nothing is better for a late in life rotten glasser than to donate itself to resurrect a beautiful born again Starcraft tinny.
I don't know for sure, it could be it was a 1x8 to start with it is 1" thick. Personally if mine would have been rotten or missing then I would have used some regular lumber and sealed it up well as it's for the most part not even visible and SC had the wood covered with a black vinyl on the...
Well it's great to see the old Chief found someone to love her again, welcome aboard.
The bow support section was solid mahogany, here's mine prior to putting the cover and cabin on.
The cost, more weight, more negative buoyancy, way more difficult to work with and you have to add more under deck support not too mention once done you're in an aluminum skillet under the summer sun.
Oh boy, he's back in the saddle again :)
Hope all the wiring is in good shape, it sucks on the old Mercs to replace working electronics because the wires are rotten,
Not that exact style but yes I added a rear deck on my 18' SS but it has a belly tank. Elevated decks are a great way to get rid of those portable gas leakers too.
In deck cooler on starboard side and livewell on the port. The back smaller hatches are above the batteries with onboard charger.
Those piano hinged port side doors, a previous owners add-on?
Not sure where the rest of the SC gang is, must be out having fun on the water but they would know about those side hatch doors if add-ons or factory.
Grandad had the longest pics of his Holiday with rib end cracks but his pics I'm afraid were a victim of potobuckets demise. The it's going to the bottom pics were of the side splitting down the spray rail chine.
I'm really not familiar with the Chrysler motors so you'll need to scour the entire motors outside and under the cowl for a motor ID plate. I would also post a thread in the Chrysler motor group for their input.
Common issue with the older boats before SC figured it out and added rib end braces in the mid-late 70's. The answer to your question is nothing can be done to repair them permanently from just the outside. You have to patch over the cracks and add the braces to the inside for it to be properly...
Looks like there's a problem with that prop or someone didn't torque it down, the face of the prop hub should not have all that circular scarring. Those numbers don't mean anything to me, it may have the pitch and diameter numbers stamped on the outside of the prop barrel.
A 50 horse would be...
Serial number for the motor would help to ID it and for new parts. Not sure but a lot of parts for those motors are probably NLA but the water pump parts should be available still.
Bench seat work looks top notch, impressed by your use of rivets solid and LF blinds. (y)
Wake boat's are a danger to these boats when up on a plane and you suddenly find yourself launched over a 4' high wave and coming down on the next one spearing it with the bow. Can't imagine spending over...
Yeah I agree that a bimini would be a better choice for sun shade, cost and you have to take it down to trailer so it won't be left up to get ruined by mother nature.
