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I saw his vid on this and many of his others, but I stand by what I said, 22 years of use with this system, and I have not had that happen. And the trailer gets greased about 2x a year. I just do it the way you're supposed to. Don't know why others are having failures, but maybe it has to do...

Painless wiring sells or used to sell relay bases with rubber insulation/water proofing pads, I’ll have to look at their site to see if they still sell them.

I was referring to the initial packing of new bearings. After that I have used the grease zerk and never had a problem with grease leaking onto the drum brakes like some have reported. Why? The proper way to do it is jack up that wheel, turn the wheel while slowly pumping in grease. 22 years of...

agreed, even the so-called bearing packing tools don't really do a good job. Just get a nice pair of nibrile gloves and a clean work area and go at it.

Maybe that step is only needed with the Delco EST, I still have a points distributor, so I still do it the old way! If you have an advance timing light, it’s a good idea to check the total timing advance as well. Merc probably has a graph showing how much advance at what RPM in the manual. I've...

the bottom pic makes it more clear...the distributor has to be in timing mode and engine idling @ about 600 rpm, warmed up, can do it on the water hose...you're setting it at before top dead center @ whatever degrees Merc specifies in the manual.

Congrats! Looks like you got it set to TDC or zero, I set mine at 6*BTDC using 89 octane gas; not sure if Merc used a different setting than OMC.

If replacing bearings/races, and keeping the same hub/drum/rotors make sure you have the right tools to remove and replace the races without damaging the new ones. You cannot install new bearings on old races and expect them to last.

The reality with Yamaha outboard corrosion is that it happens on engines that are a lot less than 10 years old and sometimes less than 500 hrs. If people see that happening with one brand but not with others (Mercury for example, which sells probably as much as Yamaha in the US) then that makes...

seeing as how you're in fresh water now, that exhaust should last the life of boat, hopefully you can stop any leaks. the one thing we still don't know, is if the water was caused by condensation or a leak, but if you can check em as I did, if you see a bit of water after idling on the water...

I am going to post up an old pic of my 4.3 when I had it apart about 10 years ago. The pistons show carbon build up (the Q-Jet was running too rich then for sure) and on the center piston you can see the lack of pock marks, this engine at that point probably had at least 1500 hrs on it, had one...

If you blow up the pix of the top of the pistons you can see pock marks, that is what I think Scott is referring to. Can be Caused by lean fuel mix, fuel octane too low, timing too advanced and prop too large in pitch. If the engine doesn’t reach its specified wide open throttle RPM you can get...

I see some light scuffing on the cyl wall in the 1st pic, definitely a valve seal leak in one cyl, also the motor was rebuilt at some point because I see a piston stamped .030”. Looks like some very light corrosion in one of the pix as well. Nothing too bad though….

See www.thehulltruth.com very long thread on this and similar problems apparently not as common on Mercury or Evinrude but they have other issues.

I was checking some stuff in the boat today (things to be fixed over the winter) and checked the inside of the manifolds again, they look fine still. No sign of water in the bottom or leaks from the joint. So if you get a good set with good flat mating surfaces these can last a pretty long time...

Yep definitely looks cobbled up but does it cool properly?

I used Fel Pro on mine, trying to remember from when I did it like 9 years ago...both cylinder heads are actually the same casting. Try it both ways, see if it fits better one way vs the other. Does it seem to line up better with the Marine label showing? Also before you bolt up those heads...

Don't know. it was 36 years ago lol. yep could be that as you say but the distributor cap looks bad, a weak spark due to bad cap/wire will result in a weak spark/misfire/not burning off anything in the cylinder.

also check the resistance of all the spark plug cables, usually is 1000 ohms per foot of length, if that one is way higher than the others, might be your problem. Many years ago (1990) my new wife had a 1988 Toyota Camry 2.0 liter twin cam. One day it starts running like a 2 stroke. So just on...

Brush on Rustoleum primer followed by their paint.