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PS I'd get an OEM style sending unit from www.marineengine.com just look up your engine, it's pricey but they work I do not like buying any automotive/boat parts from amazon. Took much junk out there...

Yep they had a lot of issues with those car style dashboards, I recall some years back there was a guy on the ifourwinns.com board who knew how to fix them, and someone else who actually had a new dash panel made and replaced the car style unit with actual gauges, which to me is the best...

F-14 Tomcat, a thing of beauty forever. We would see these go to full afterburner over Long Island every so often.

I knew one of the guys who worked on these. Grumman hired 7,000 people to build these from 1962-1972.

Yeah in fresh water In salt because of the way cast iron corrodes, those rust flakes WILL clog it.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/708387-fc-w-oil-required-14.html post # 266

There is another oil thread over at The Hull Truth, which is mostly outboard folks, but one guy brought up an interesting point, in markets outside the USA, Yamaha doesn't mention FW-C in specs required for oil grades, only typical automotive grades. Don't know how accurate that is, but if it is...

Yep the prices of new boats is insane still. I go to the Nassau County Boat Show every year and the only boats I see under 50k new are 18’ Center Consoles with a 115 Yamaha 4 stroke. Re power? If I do a reman 4.3 from MM it will be about $4500 plus local install I’m not doing that part at...

I agree as long as you can get down in there if you need to change a starter etc.

So that was a really good investment. Don’t know if my old boat is worth repowering but a 5.7 certainly would wake it up! Now though the price will be pretty high adding in all the things I can’t reuse from the old 4.3.

Either will work; I use Lucas Marine grease but ujoints aren’t super picky like wheel bearings are, just keep em dry and lubed and don’t trim it too high unless at slow idle.

How’d it do with that oil? Does it hold pressure well when hot? I was thinking of trying that oil myself when my stock of Merc/QS oil runs out….

Ok that I hadn’t seen. The on plane 3500 rpm oil pressure was always like 55-60 psi, it was lower only at idle when hot. Maybe I just dont push it that hard but I actually weighed my boat and when I subtract the trailer weight it’s 4,100 lbs! The whole works boat & trailer is 4960 on a certified...

Without removing the whole works can you even put oil in the engines?! Looks like all you can access is the fuel filters & belts. I’d imagine that oil changes and winterizing are real “fun”. The only I/O I’d have is a single engine with a wide open engine compartment. These are what they call...

PS you can repeat the test with it rotated 90* and 180* but I just usually check it once whenever I have the drive off. I have not had to change it in YEARS.

So when you check the alignment you are supposed to coat the very last part of it that goes into the splines with grease, insert the tool (do not rotated it, put it in straight and pull it out straight) and look at the 'witness marks' the coupler makes in the grease, it should look the same all...

I'm feeling the pain of getting at those engines. A special place in hell for the designers!

I would though coat the edges of the pivot housing & drive where they join together with marine grease.

Looks like it. That style of drive is just like the Volvo SX so it does not use a gasket between the pivot housing & outdrive like the original dog clutch Cobra does. Only the irregular shaped oring for the water passage area. The 2 orings are for the driveshaft.

When you say oil pressure drops off, by how much? What I have seen with the Merc Syn Blends is my cold idle oil pressure will be about 40 psi and after running on plane it might drop to 25 psi at idle but as the oil cools off it will rise up to 40 again. Oil pressure at speed is always about the...