Search results

I did something similar with my old Load Rite, I got new brackets from LR that were longer than the ones the trailer came with. Getting the old bolts off (salt water trailer) was "fun". I also got lower mounts for the roller bars which helped as well. So the chine of the boat went from 5" above...

I am getting to that point. Still have the same old 4.3/Cobra/4bbl

That is interesting, looking at what I see out back in our harbor, the # of sterndrives has definitely declined, I do still see some on the small cruisers but even those are coming on the market with outboards. It's a combination of factors, the increase in repair cost due to the biased (against...

Yep but be careful with your hands in there because it can all of a sudden slight right in, on your finger lol. I use the long thin screwdriver to hold up the double cardan assembly.

Post up a pic of the way you are supporting the drive, from the side, let's see what is happening there. I have also heard of people modifying motorcycle jacks to lift outdrives. Anything it better than trying to man-handle it on, that's a sure recipe for frustration and back pain.

If the splined shaft didn't go in the coupler the drive won't even be close to going on, either it's going in, or not but if not, you won't even be able to get the mount holes on the drive onto the studs. I forget how many inches of the driveshaft is actually in the coupler splines but it's...

I'd at least tighten all 6 to 25 ft lbs, and honestly I have some years not even used a torque wrench, just get it good and tight, and never has a problem doing it that way. Even 50 ft lbs isn't that much.

I bet the guys in shop get it "close" and then wham it on with an impact gun (cringe)! There used to be a very knowledgeable Merc tech on here (AChris?) who posted vids of how he got Merc Alphas on, he used a strategy called the Mercruiser Kick.... yes, he put on a boot and kicked the end of...

I know where you're at, and it's because the drive is so heavy, you really can't get it in good enough alignment to get it to slide on, you need a stand to support it at the right height. When I have mine lined up, it slides right on, like within 1/8" of the 2 mating surfaces touching. You can...

Just thinking I forgot a few points: 1) those o rings on the driveshaft, there should not be grease in the groove that they fit in. If there is, it can believe it or not cause them to stand proud of the shaft and they won't go in the gimble bearing. When I install the new ones, I clean the...

Unlikely, these get replaced usually because the bearing gets noisy or they start to leak at the bearing. I have replaced only 2 in 24 years of salt water boating. Likely causes: impeller housing, wear plate, etc marine growth in the outdrive water intakes (I clean mine out usually 2x a season...

You need to get an IR temp gun and take readings of the manifolds, elbows and the intake manifold right under the thermostat housing. The manifolds and elbows will start to run hotter as the internal passages clog due to the natural corrosion of cast iron. That produces flaking rust which starts...

sounds like your alignment is OK, it is really a matter of lining up the drive to the pivot housing and keeping that driveshaft totally straight as you feed it in. If they aren't lined up pretty close, it can be a real pain. Keeping the driveshaft totally straight isn't easy. When I first...

the only time I'd be concerned about this is mixing grease bases that aren't compatible, you can look for a chart online that tells you which grease bases shouldn't be mixed. I try to start with one and stick with it so it doesn't become an issue. I use Lucas Marine (blue grease) for trailer...

My Four Winns came with an OMC manual for the engine and drive, which is actually pretty good. FW did have manuals on line that were probably included with new boats that had things like safety information, wiring diagrams etc. They even had detailed trailer specs, for the trailers they had made...

See if you can get parts and how parts prices compare to a new unit. I have all the parts to rebuild for my Tie Down 66 but the only thing it ever needed was a new breakaway cable. I installed that actuator 22 years ago!

Ahh I have fought that fight a few times, what happens is a couple of things: the u joints because it's a double cardan style get out of alignment, meaning that the shaft isn't straight, and then it doesn't go in straight, so the end of it is hitting the outer edge of the coupler but doesn't go...

PS your plugs still look overly rich should be light tan/grey

this test will work on manifolds, but I have not tried it on elbows remove manifold prop it up level carefully fill with acetone (careful, very flammable) look for leaks in the ports that line up with the exhaust ports in the cyl head. acetone has less surface tension than water, so it finds...

You might have rotted elbows since the leaks seem to be coming from above the gasket. Not a big deal to replace both of them, glad to see you're still at it, you'll get to the bottom of it. Having said that, are the manifolds as old as the elbows? Isn't it amazing what these cameras can show? I...