1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[gm280]

Okay, after reading months and months of rebuilding Boat/Motor/Trailer projects on these forums and seeing what I'm getting into, I have to start my own project tread now. :joyous:

About a year ago or so I bid on a boat, motor and trailer package on that bidding place (don't know if I can say that site name on here yet). Clever as I thought I was, I actually won the whole nine yards, out-bidding those not knowing I probably did them a great favor in winning. I drove to the seller's city and luckily was able to tow that deal (yea right) home with great excitement... After looking over everything and envisioning a plan of attack, I then got side-tracked into another PROJECT. I FIRST had to refurbish an old 96 Geo Metro car. It was in total need of everything redone, inside and out; looked like it was used in a demolition derby and lost! So I figured I'd use that project to hone my skills for the boat project to come...

Okay, after finishing that project, I was again excited to start my boat project. I noticed that the trailer was in need of a complete remake, but I know how to do that so no big deal. Then I looked over the 40 HP Johnson outboard and figured out that the lower foot was completely frozen up. Again I am very mechanically inclined so again no big deal. Then I turned to the boat itself. I knew there was going to be much rework done to it because I wanted to redesign it into a completely different layout. Again I thought no big deal. So after I finally sat down and figured out that all I had to do was completely rebuild the trailer, the motor AND the boat it would be ready to go. Seems a great deal for $600 dollars doesn't it? Please after you all stop laughing, no real replies actually needed! I guess I got myself into this situation and much work. But I do enjoy challenges.:laugh:

The boat is a 1976 Tom Boy tri-haul, with a 1976 40 HP Johnson electric start outboard motor (engine 40E76R) and I haven't got a clue about the trailer. But I am good at seeing the light at the end of the tunnel and am moving on...foolishly I'm sure but moving on all the same. Once I figure out how to include pictures. I'll post this project and what I've initially how done thus far...

They say there is a fine line between genius and insanity...how do you know when you cross that line? :facepalm:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

How to post pics:
http://forums.iboats.com/non-boating-technical-topics/how-posting-pictures-videos-533219.html

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

How to post pics:
http://forums.iboats.com/non-boating-technical-topics/how-posting-pictures-videos-533219.html

Thanks jigngrub. As soon as I get everything together and setup, pictures will be posted...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

But I am good at seeing the light at the end of the tunnel and am moving on...foolishly I'm sure but moving on all the same. Once I figure out how to include pictures. They say there is a fine line between genius and insanity...how do you know when you cross that line? :facepalm:

Good news 1st: The light at the end of tunnel may appear to be a train. The crew @iboats dry dock will help you understand how to get out of it's way. After the train passes, they'll give you plenty of advice on to proceed thru demo, repair, and put back. Some of that advice & opinions may actually even be helpful...:tape:

Bad news: Yeah, it's a train

Maybe we should call & consult with your Admiral before we define that fine line, how it applies to you & this boats purchase and on which side you are currently standing hone:

BTW: Is that Johnson an electric shift lower?

Welcome again to the iboats dry dock.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Good news 1st: The light at the end of tunnel may appear to be a train. The crew @iboats dry dock will help you understand how to get out of it's way. After the train passes, they'll give you plenty of advice on to proceed thru demo, repair, and put back. Some of that advice & opinions may actually even be helpful...:tape:

Bad news: Yeah, it's a train

Maybe we should call & consult with your Admiral before we define that fine line, how it applies to you & this boats purchase and on which side you are currently standing hone:

BTW: Is that Johnson an electric shift lower?

Welcome again to the iboats dry dock.

No, it is a standard mechanical setup with the usual shifter rod connected via the remote cable setup. Seems the PO (previous owner) hit something with the boat and motor and broke the cavitation plate off on one side towards the back of the motor. I've already taken the foot totally apart and had that rewelded and all looks good with that issue. However, every part inside that foot was toast (rusted) and I already bought all the new items to reinstall. More on that as I go on.

Thanks for any and all advice and opinions in advance. I am a great listener and everybody has ideas to learn from, in my opinion. I do enjoy reading these posts and learning new things every day. I am never disappointed learning new things...

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Hi again, Here are some pictures of my first Geo Car project.



I'll post the boat next...

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Here is the Tom Boy Boat motor and trailer as I bought it and brought it home...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

What are your plans for the boat? Paint?

Have you checked for rot? (transom)

What does the inside look like?

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Yes I do plan on painting the outside and maybe use carpet over gelcoat finish on the inside after all the proper structual work is finished.

Here are a few pictures of the inside. Notice the transom repair work from the PO.



It looks like the PO tried to repair the transom using some 2 by wood and latex paint. No telling how long the transom was rotted out, or the floors...

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Okay, After removing all seats hardware and controls and cleaning out tons of junk, I did finally remove the Johnson 40 HP outboard and examined the transom closer. I think there is some problems here. What you all think? Here are some pictures. :facepalm:



Notice the PO attempt at a repair towards the front deck also. I think I have a LOOOTTTT of work ahead of me. What was that light in the tunnel again...OH yea, A TRAIN...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

You stole that boat for $600!... I especially like the gang nails hold the transom 2x's together!:laugh:

You're just at the tip of the ice berg right now.

It looks to me like you have a 2 piece "cap and hull" construction, with the "cap" actually being the inside deck mold. When you seperate the 2 you should find lots of nice goodies in there like rotten mushy stringers and glassed in plywood decking, and rancid waterlogged floatation foam.:watermelon:

Seperating the cap and hull should be a nice little chore in itself... it should be FUN!:happy: Start by removing the aluminum gunwale/rubrail and see where that leads you.

We'll be here for tech support and to watch the train wreck as it unfolds.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Cool older boat, that seems to have some custom features. I didn't see the steering wheel on that boat up front. Is it removed or just not used? Either way have fun with her.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

I didn't see the steering wheel on that boat up front. Is it removed or just not used?

It's a stick steer, you can see the steering stick on the port side in the first 2 picks in post #9... the throttle and shifter are on the starboard side.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Hello Greenbush Future, yes it is stick steering but I have already removed all those control cables and wiring and seats, hardware and everything in preparation for much work to do on this boat.

I used a Dremel Multi-Max tool and removed the inside fiberglass skin on the transom. WOW! I was thinking that the transom was all rotted out and would need replaced. Lucky me with some spackle and some duct tape I beleive it will be okay. :laugh: :facepalm:

View attachment 176280View attachment 176281View attachment 176282View attachment 176283

I know you all hear of a game called Wack-A-Mole, well I was playing Wack-A-Roach. Seems they were living in that transom and once exposed they were running everywhere. But with my trusty rubber dead-blow hammer and quick reflexes, I got to play Wack-A-Roach for a while.

I have a question. I have read many transom replacements on these forums and rebuild projects and was wondering if anybody ever replace one with a build up of 1708 cloth and polyester resin, no wood at all? Or has anybody thought about Polycarbonate (lexan) or even Phonlic and 1708. If there is nothing in the transom to rot, would it not last forever then? Just wondering...

I guess I see a new transom in the master plan now...:facepalm:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

It would take many, many, many lams of 1708 & resin to create a transom that is 1.5". SeaCast is a poly resin based product that has been used by some to replace the wood in the transom. It is often 'poured' between the inner & outer fiberglass skins, 1 of which you removed....

It is not inexpensive or particularly easy to complete. Having to refab an interior skin complicates it further. But it can still be done..

Use the advanced search feature of the forum & search: Seacast

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

I know you all hear of a game called Wack-A-Mole, well I was playing Wack-A-Roach. Seems they were living in that transom and once exposed they were running everywhere. But with my trusty rubber dead-blow hammer and quick reflexes, I got to play Wack-A-Roach for a while.

There are plenty more of those between your deck and hull.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Seems you were right on with that info as well "jigngrub" about the roaches. I have for the most part removed the floor and front deck. And oh yea... another round or four with Wack-A-Roach game was on again. These critters were even larger making it a little easier to score. :joyous:

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As was thought, the foam was totally soaked and amazingly heavy. In fact I was amazed at just how much weight I removed taking the foam out. A piece of soaked foam about a foot long had to weigh a few pounds at minimum. I filled our trash can and had much more to dispose of too. Luckily I had a small garden rake and was able to rake up 90 percent of the rotted wood and stringers. There were only two stringers in this boat not counting the wood located on the hull sides, and they were again some Pine looking 2" by 3" in size and completely gone to rot. I was wondering why they don't use white oak for stringers. White Oak is very resistant to rot as well as Cypress wood too. But I never hear of anybody using those species of wood in their rebuilds. Is there a reason why? Just wondering.

This boat is not a two part hull but a one piece hull with a floor. So I didn't need to remove the rub rail or drill out countless rivets either. So it was not as much work to get to this point. I used a standard narrow cut-off disk on my angle grinder and it went throught that glass and wood like butter. I was shocked to see how easy it actually was to cut out things. I made sure to stay clear of the sides so I didn't create another drain hole in the boat. After cleaning up the crap (if I can legally say that word on here) and with a Shop Vac and the rake I clean it all out. :happy:

I have plans on remaking all the new stringers (like that is going to be tough, there is only two), and even thought about putting in some cross partitions (or ribs or what ever you all call them) as well for better floor structuring. Of course allowing for weep holes in all the cross ribs or structual support as I go.

After seening all the options for refoaming in many projects, I think I'll go with the blue, pink, or whatever color foam available and suitable for my refoaming. I like the mix and pour method, but as shallow as this floor is, cut foam looks like the better idea. :joyous:

That brings me to aother question too. I usually do most of my home impovement purchasing at Lowe's (hope that is legal to post their name) and I looked everywhere for blue, pink foam already and I haven't found anything but white sheets. It that the same stuff only a different color? It looks like the type foam they use in ice buckets and such...

Thanks again for any info...I do appreciate any and all...

Everybody have a great wonderful day...:happy:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

This is the foam you want if you're not going to use the 2 part expanding:
Shop STYROFOAM 3/4-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com
The white beaded "cooler" styrofoam isn't closed cell and will absorb water and break apart into little beads over time.

The 2 part expanding urethane foam is what is normally used in fiberglass boats because it adds support to the hull and deck and fills all voids completely.

The "ribs" or bulkheads between the stringers are a good idea and add strength to the boats structure.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

This is the foam you want if you're not going to use the 2 part expanding:
Shop STYROFOAM 3/4-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com
The white beaded "cooler" styrofoam isn't closed cell and will absorb water and break apart into little beads over time.

The 2 part expanding urethane foam is what is normally used in fiberglass boats because it adds support to the hull and deck and fills all voids completely.

The "ribs" or bulkheads between the stringers are a good idea and add strength to the boats structure.

This is the foam you want if you're not going to use the 2 part expanding:
Shop STYROFOAM 3/4-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com
The white beaded "cooler" styrofoam isn't closed cell and will absorb water and break apart into little beads over time.

The 2 part expanding urethane foam is what is normally used in fiberglass boats because it adds support to the hull and deck and fills all voids completely.

The "ribs" or bulkheads between the stringers are a good idea and add strength to the boats structure.

Hi jigngrub, thanks for the link. I have never seem that type at either one of the Lowe's in my area, but I will look again.

I use the term "ribs" from my RC Airplane days of building. Bulheads work also, but I usually think of a bulkhead as being something more substanual I guess. Either term, I do plan on installing them for the structural support. The foam I removed from this boat was simple long 6" or so wide by 2" thick strips of foam just laying under the floor. There was about 6 or seven strips in each area. So I was going to reinstall foam in a more complete fashion to give it more buoyancy and make the boat harder to sink. I did see a project on here where the guy installed the foam vertically cutting it in pieces to fill the opening better. It looked nice but had to take lots of time and lots of waste too. I also like the mix and pour foam, but I would certainly have to allow some type of drainage for any water that would/could get trapped. Does the mix and pour absorb water? I thought I read that it will eventually...

What are your thoughts on hard wood for stringers? Either type of material will get totally covered with glass and poly. And do I need to cover the prepped and sanded hull with 1708/poly before and after ribs and stringers are installed?

With the floor removed the hull is certainly a lot flimsier that before. So I was thinking to install a covering of 1708/poly and then install the ribs (bulkheads) and stringers and cover everything afterwards with another 1708/poly appl. Is that over-kill?

Also one other question. I saw your boat before and after with the vinyl flooring and it does look very nice. Does that comform to radiused corners well and what options and colors does it come in? Could be an option I should look at too... :watermelon:

Before I do too much more on the boat itself, I seriously need to install some much needed pads (runners) on the trailer for the boat to sit on while on the trailer. Presently it is sitting on two very short and totally rotted runners and they are not supporting the boat very well. In fact the three rollers are supporting the boat more then the runners. Not a good thing. I plan on installing four appropriate length runners AND two side rail bunkers as well before removing the boat to work the underside. I have done that type of thing before with other boat trailers so not a big problem. But this boat should never have any support from the center rollers. The boat should always be supported via the padded runners. Center rollers, in my opinion, are there to straighten and guide the bow of the boat while loading from the water. I was told that allowing the boat to be suppported by center rollers would cause the hull to receive an indention in it and possible break the hull. I don't thing the PO cared enough to worry either way. I'll post more pictures as I get more...

Everybody have a wonderful day... :happy:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Foam:
You can order that blue Dow styrofoam (it's actually extruded polystyrene foam) online and they will ship it to your local store free for you to pick up.

The expanding urethane (mix and pour) foam is closed cell and will resist water absorption unless it is continuously exposed to water for an extended amount of time... this means months, not days or weeks. From the USComposites site that sells this foam:

This foam is approximately 95-98% closed cell which resists absorbing water, however continuous water submersion can eventually lead to loss of buoyancy over a period of years.

That is from here:
Urethane Foam , Expanding Marine Polyurethane Foam

Wood:
Fir or Spruce is mainly used for dimensional lumber in fiberglass boat construction, but laminated plywood is the most common because it's much stronger than dimensional lumber. These products are used to keep production costs competitive, the expense of hardwood would not be competitive in manufacturing when everyone else is using Fir.

Rotting wood and waterlogged foam:
These 2 things happen due to neglect, people that don't take care of their boats inflict this damage on their boats. A boat should be kept covered or garaged when not in use, exposing it to the elements will age it beyond it's years quickly. Exposing the interior of a boat to rain, freezing temps, and sun (UV damage) is why boats end up like yours did. Just a cheap $20 tarp from Wal-mart will protect your boat and hard work when you're finished with it, and keep it looking like new for a long time.
This is how I keep my boat:

Putting your boat back together:
Before you start installing stringers and ribs you should make a cradle for your boat to hold the flimsy hull to shape during installation and glassing in. This guy did a great job on his:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...-deck-stringer-replacement-help-471173-3.html
You won't need near the amount of lumber he did, and yours will be simpler to build.

Your trailer:
The padded runners are called bunks, and they're an easy fix. Just remember to seal the 2x4s before installing the carpet. You can visit the trailers and towing forum for some good tips and "How To's":
Trailers and Towing

Nautolex marine vinyl:
I got mine here:
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|10918|311409&id=311410
It does conform to radius corners well, this is my console base wrapped with one piece:

If you decide to go this route I suggest you wrap your smaller pieces first for the "practice", it's not really hard to work with but does take a little practice to get it to do what you want.