Transom patch

[froggy1150]

Foam also adds structural integrity and sound deadening.

 

[mvs788]

If you got all the rotten wood out, you could just replace what you cut, covering the joints with several layers of Glass, each new layer a couple of inches larger than the last, and a couple across the entire Transom and overlapping on the Sides. The repair is strong till the glass ends, which is why I tend to go a bit overkill. Too often I have seen a Structural Repair on Glass Hulls, where the new Mat, not even cloth or Roving, forms what is practically a Butt Joint, with an overlap of 3/4" with the old glass

So far every section I opened up in the bilge as well as the port side of the transom, came out in pieces. So now I’m going to replace the entire transom

 

[jimmbo]

So far every section I opened up in the bilge as well as the port side of the transom, came out in pieces. So now I’m going to replace the entire transom

As mentioned, the Stringers below the floor, may also be rotted. The Joys of an older Boat

 

[Baylinerchuck]

As far as foam, that argument has been has been discussed thousands of times on this forum. In some boats the foam helps support the deck and is very structural as far as the integrity of the hull. All foam floats, unless the closed cell foam is compromised over several years of freeze/ thaw cycles. Foam cavities have to be sealed to keep water out, but many manufacturers didn’t do that, they built boats sloppily to say the least. At a minimum, you should put back new foam where you pulled out the old. Ultimately it’s your boat, you have to make the decision to foam or not to foam. As long as you prevent the foam from getting wet by being detail oriented when you build, it’ll last forever.

 

[mvs788]

As far as foam, that argument has been has been discussed thousands of times on this forum. In some boats the foam helps support the deck and is very structural as far as the integrity of the hull. All foam floats, unless the closed cell foam is compromised over several years of freeze/ thaw cycles. Foam cavities have to be sealed to keep water out, but many manufacturers didn’t do that, they built boats sloppily to say the least. At a minimum, you should put back new foam where you pulled out the old. Ultimately it’s your boat, you have to make the decision to foam or not to foam. As long as you prevent the foam from getting wet by being detail oriented when you build, it’ll last forever.

OK, but as far as putting foam back, Do they sell foam blocks or do I have to use pour foam?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

It will most likely be cheaper to pour in new foam and will provide more support. It might be difficult to find the exact size blocks you need. Most folks have found that US Composites has the best price in pour in foam.

 

[mvs788]

As mentioned, the Stringers below the floor, may also be rotted. The Joys of an older Boat

I inspected all the Stringers, all of them were good except for one that was up against the rotted transom, about 18 inches worth. I guess I will remove the rot and patch it with some transom material? Epoxy and glass it in?

 

[mvs788]

It will most likely be cheaper to pour in new foam and will provide more support. It might be difficult to find the exact size blocks you need. Most folks have found that US Composites has the best price in pour in foam.

Yes I was on the website, I guess I would be starting with a 10 gallon kit? Also, it will be poured in after the new deck is on? Drill holes in the plywood before it is glassed in To pour the foam in?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Forgot to mention that if the foam blocks you took out are dry and otherwise haven’t been compromised with water, there’s no reason to not reuse them. I have heard of some guys sealing old foam with resin to close any open cells. Just make sure the resin doesn’t eat the foam by testing a small piece first.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I inspected all the Stringers, all of them were good except for one that was up against the rotted transom, about 18 inches worth. I guess I will remove the rot and patch it with some transom material? Epoxy and glass it in?

Yep, cut the rot out, peal back or grind down the glass a couple feet into the good wood. Sister a new piece of core wood in, glass everything.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Yes I was on the website, I guess I would be starting with a 10 gallon kit? Also, it will be poured in after the new deck is on? Drill holes in the plywood before it is glassed in To pour the foam in?

Use a 2” or 3” holesaw. Then glue the puck back in with PB when finished.

 

[Scott06]

OK, but as far as putting foam back, Do they sell foam blocks or do I have to use pour foam?

Use pour in foam there are a lot of you tube videos of it

 

[mvs788]

Forgot to mention that if the foam blocks you took out are dry and otherwise haven’t been compromised with water, there’s no reason to not reuse them. I have heard of some guys sealing old foam with resin to close any open cells. Just make sure the resin doesn’t eat the foam by testing a small piece first.

Yeah half of them was soaking wet and heavy. My bilge pump switch went out at the end of season, it’s a pilot houseboat, and apparently water sits in the bow after a heavy rain. Thinking about adding a bilge pump to the front.

 

[kcassells]

Being where you are with the boat at this time why not try to find the sources of the leak in the bow instead of compensating with an add'l pump.

 

[mvs788]

Being where you are with the boat at this time why not try to find the sources of the leak in the bow instead of compensating with an add'l pump.

I am pretty sure that when it rained, with the old rotted deck, water would go in to the Pilothouse, and then out the drain hole into the bilge.

 

[mvs788]

I am pretty sure that when it rained, with the old rotted deck, water would go in to the Pilothouse, and then out the drain hole into the bilge.

Also a leaky window

 

[kcassells]

Break out the pressure washer or hose and let it rip to see possible leaks.
Another mechanical device like a pump to solve an uncertainty is a band aid/trouble.
When your finished the deck will or should be water tight.

 

[mvs788]

Transom removed!!

 

[mvs788]

Only toook about 10 hours!

 

[kcassells]

See how easy that was. Now it's way far behind you.