transom leak

[rickasbury]

crack in the gimbal housing would leak even if it were sealed around the edges? The gunk I put around it would seal between the edge and the gimbal big o ring but if it had a crack in it, would still leak correct? This is such a mess...wish I could just pull it out but not sure I would know anything more! Unless I just replace everything...all the bellows are replaced.

 

[alldodge]

Rick is correct, Y pipe is aluminum and your risers should be case iron like the manifolds

 

[rickasbury]

cleaned off the sealant, do not see any gaps in the edge of the ring and when I bounce it around, I do not see it moving. I used a dental tool to get in between the gimbal and the transom best I could but it is tight up against the transom. I used a razor blade down the edges to make sure I hopefully got out the sealant that would have worked its way into the gap. So, on this speedo connection, what exactly does this connect to? If it were leaking, could it have been running along the backside of the inner plate and then coming out around the Y pipe connection? I will know in a few I suppose....heading to the ramp!

 

[rickasbury]

So, back from the ramp and not the results I had hoped for...I had not unsealed the exhaust water outlets on the sides of the gimbal which would have been my second test- after removing the sealant from around the gimbal, water was coming in what would appear to be from at the bottom somewhere...you can hear it coming in! So, it must be from the gimbal ring somewhere and I assume at the bottom. So, I have to figure out if I can rig up something to pull the motor or if I will have to take it somewhere and have it pulled....bummer.

 

[alldodge]

Bummer, but at least you will find out where the issue is.

If you get it ready to pull check with a wrecker Company, they would charge a service call but may be worth it. If everything is disconnected, should come right out in 10 minutes

 

[rickasbury]

A wrecker company will do that?

 

[rickasbury]

Where would I put the darn thing after I had it out? I don't think I could put it on a dolly and move it around could I? My drive way has a pretty good slope to it......hmmmm

 

[Rick Stephens]

Where would I put the darn thing after I had it out? I don't think I could put it on a dolly and move it around could I? My drive way has a pretty good slope to it......hmmmm

Is there room for a pallet or blocks where you could just set the motor on the deck, forward out of the way?

BTW, use a 1/16 inch feeler gauge between transom and gimbal housing. The transom is supposed to be flat within 1/16 inch on outer surface. With your gimbal bolted in you should be able to slide the 1/16" feeler gauge (.063) between without any loose spots. There will be tight spots, but a .075 should not fit in the loose areas.

 

[alldodge]

A wrecker company will do that?

Some will, some won't. If you find one which is doing nothing they may be willing, just need to make some calls.

This is a small block so your only talking about 800 pounds. You could also get some wood and build a A-frame to use a hoist or come along

Rick has a idea with a pallet, or build a rectangular box and get a dolly from harbor freight, or get some wheels to bolt to your rectangular box. Will need some other blocks to brace up the front and rear motor mounts

 

[rickasbury]

I had already been thinking about this....I have a 9' beam, will a 4x4 hold that kind of weight? I do not have any deck space to put it and with the hatch open, I'd have to raise the motor probably 15' to clear it, but, I can move the motor forward about a foot inside the engine compartment- will that give me enough room?

Also, since I've never seen the assembly out of the boat, two things bother me. One, this leak is new in that it was not leaking like this until I changed the bellows and had to beat the heck out of that bearing to get it out. Also, either I did it trying to fish the shift cable back through or the shop did it when they did the coupler, broke off the speedo tube from the plastic part at the transom= that in itself not a big deal but what does that part attach to? If that part was damaged, the way that inner plate is in there....could it be a major leak there and the water going down the back side of the plate where I can't see it and obviously accumulating at the bottom? It bugs me that I can't see where it is coming in...I suppose if that was the leak, it would still have leaked there when I had the seal around the gimbal- has to be getting by that seal, correct? Also, no way you'd get a 1/16 feeler around the edge- could not really get a razor blade in there- when I removed the sealer, I was not sure I was even going to get out what got squished down in the crack and was picking it out with a dental tool- guess I did cause it leaked!

 

[alldodge]

I would not use a 4x4 to hold it. Depending on the span (9' beam + 2' each side = 13') I would use 2 each 2x10 screwed together. You want to use the boards standing on edge.

The speedometer fitting is next to the motor intake water hose. If its broke off there would be a stream coming in, but would be a small hole, about 1/8.

It happening after bellows and bearing work and there is a crack, then it should be able to see it on the outside, Also assuming there is no water in the drive shaft boot

 

[scoflaw]

My 2 cents on this and what I would do 1st

The bearing housing is a thick rugged piece, doubtful it's cracked, and heavy pounding is the norm for bearing removal.
I would think improper bellow installation would be more likely.

Should not be that difficult to figure out if the leak is above or below the driveshaft opening, get an inspection camera, lights , mirror, whatever.

If you determine it's not the bellows and is below the driveshaft I would get the boat tilted up as high as you can and fill the engine compartment up to just below the starter and observe. This will eliminate the trim line manifold and the lower part of the transom seal. Like mentioned previously, if it's the Y pipe it will leak on the garden hose flusher

 

[rickasbury]

I think that is good advice although I'm pretty confident it is not the bellows-= have been wrong before! I will try to fill with water first, and then back to the ramp to test the bellows. I had a buddy with a camera and he swore it was coming from the top of the Y pipe area- so if it were leaking from the bellows down it might appear that is where the leak is coming from- easy to see the water, hard to see where it starts from! When I look at the bellows from the out side, it seems to be sealed well and the clamp is around it....but would that not be sweet if that were the problem. Only thing is, when I ran the bead around the gimbal, it did not leak- when I removed it, it did. So....if it were the bellows it would have leaked either way, correct?

 

[alldodge]

I would not fill the bilge with water

 

[Grub54891]

Never fill the bulge with water. Your starter won't like it, and your hull, and trailer could be compromised.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I would never fill my boat with water. Never.

 

[rickasbury]

Yikes- well, since it did not leak when I sealed the gimbal and then leaked when I removed it, would there be agreement that it is not bellows but water getting around the transom seal? I have to do some work on my truck and then I will start designing a lift to move the motor and hope I can move it forward enough to get to it- I don't think I could build an a frame that will allow me to remove it, not sure a recker other than one of those big ol ones with an adjustable boom would get it either- I might be able to build a platform and get it out of the engine compartment- We'll see- If it is leaking around the seal than this can't be good- did not have this leak until I changed the bellows however- that's for sure.

 

[scoflaw]

77 posts later and now we're getting a clear answer. It's the transom seal. Your talking a lot of work to R/R a transom assembly and maybe you might have rot maybe not. I just had the same problem with the boat in my sig. Even though I enjoy working on boats I like using them more

I put a few hundred gallons of water in the boat to confirm the leak, and neither the boat or the trailer broke. So being the middle of summer I chose to put a bead of 4200 around the perimeter and call it a day. I had 0 flex in the transom when jumping up and down on the drive, so I was comfortable with the repair.

 

[rickasbury]

so if y0u did not have rot in the transom, why do you think it was leaking through the seal- they are pretty big ol fat rings, guessing they would not shrink up and lose the seal.....by gimbal is so tight against the transom I could not get a razor between the two when I was getting the sealant off. I like using mine as well but I also would be concerned with such a repair and it breaking lose from flex and the boat sinking....I just don't understand what happened between starting the bellows repair with a minor leak that I see not was probably my speedo tube to this massive leak- it's not like I could have shifted the gimbal to the point of the seal losing contact right? I will get to the bottom of this!

 

[Rick Stephens]

Have you stood on and bounced on the drive yet? Tells a lot.

The seal is a weird extruded foam snake that sits in a half round groove in the gimbal housing and gets flattened out against the transom making a half round shape. They then turn hard and stiff with age (opposite of old guys). Any damage to one would not self adjust to close the gap. I seriously considered putting 4200 on that seal, between it and the transom, when I redid my transom. Probably should have as I get a cup of water through that seal in a days use. However, I KNOW my problem is a not quite flat enough transom. I can run a .05 feeler gauge most all the way around sides of my gimbal housing between that seal and the transom with ease.

If I had a leak, I would pull apart my bellows job in a heartbeat. Rechecking everything I can see costs just a little bit of time. Can reuse almost everything but a little bellows cement. Also give s a chance to eyeball around the bearing. Like previous pst, I cannot believe you hurt the housing hammering on a bearing. That housing is designed to handle 300 HP and a buttload of torque.

If in doubt on the wood inside the transom, grab a drill and drill a test hole Even one from outside you can plug easy enough. Beats wondering.