Thermostat housing hole.

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
Welcome back, home repairs specially the important ones can't wait that long or the Admiral will be mad at you. Which brand tach/model do you have, is it a dial or induction one ?

Happy Boating
Cheap induction Timon. Wraps around spark plug wire. Probably not completely accurate but better than nothing. Yea the Admiral bought me the boat so at the moment I’m letting adhesive dry on the new bathroom floor. Lol
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Multi Carb Idle Balancer.-

Anyone can carb balance 2 strokes motors if knowing how to using any of the usual 3 balancing methods :

(1) Installing a mechanical vacuum balancer Carbtune type wherever possible to connect it to achieve a fine spot on individual idle carb adjustment.
(2) Measuring with a caliper the Pilot’s head gap in between the upper head and the screw's flat base as described in post 42.
(3) Playing with Pilot’s Screw number of In-Out turns for each individual carb adjustment.
(4) New Individual Tach Balancer : Depending on the number of cylinders per motor will need to count with one basic induction tach for each carb as seen. Once tapped in a row on the air silencer...

Multi Carb Idle Balancer.JPG

2 Stroke 3 Cylinder Motor.JPG

Route each tach pick-up wire in a straight line onto each individual ignition coil with at least 3-4 tight wire wraps. Once wrapped on each spark plug cable roll some rounds of electric tape on top for a firmer positioning.

Select the spark plug firing sequence for one cylinder motor along one or two firings setting per revolution. Float the boat and warm the motor at neutral idle for at least 3 minutes, check each individual tach reading. Adjust +,- each carb’s pilot’s screw for each tach to read idle rpm as close as possible to each other.

This is a awesome method to check individual carb’s idle adjustment factory delivered with new out of the box motors and have those settings handy as a reference for future adjustments.

With used motors who’s carb’s parts have been fully disassembled, cleaned to perfection and reassembled again with pilot’s screws heads set to previous caliper measured gap or with same number of in-out turns factory stated, this method will reveal how accurate or not both procedures were set while the motor sufficiently warmed up revs at slow idle rpm.

Induction tachs when reading 2 stroke motor’s slow idle rpm may achieve erratic rpm readings, if so, throttle a tad more to fast idle side which should cancel or lessen the erratic display behavior. Don’t throttle past fast idle speed as the carbs will work on the high speed jet side which will dial a much higher rpm than needed.

Once carbs are idling fine and even adjust if needed the idle speed stop screw to it’s idle factory specs and as the french say voilá...

Happy Boating
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
I think I can if you can share this as a video tutorial, mate, thanks.
Thanks, highly appreciated for showing interest. I'm pretty good shooting and posting quality pics but have not yet dabbled in shooting and posting videos online regarding my posts, sorry but such scenario won't happen any time soon...

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
Multi Carb Idle Balancer.-

Anyone can carb balance 2 strokes motors if knowing how to using any of the usual 3 balancing methods :

(1) Installing a mechanical vacuum balancer Carbtune type wherever possible to connect it to achieve a fine spot on individual idle carb adjustment.
(2) Measuring with a caliper the Pilot’s head gap in between the upper head and the screw's flat base as described in post 42.
(3) Playing with Pilot’s Screw number of In-Out turns for each individual carb adjustment.
(4) New Individual Tach Balancer : Depending on the number of cylinders per motor will need to count with one basic induction tach for each carb as seen. Once tapped in a row on the air silencer...

View attachment 334307

View attachment 334308

Route each tach pick-up wire in a straight line onto each individual ignition coil with at least 3-4 tight wire wraps. Once wrapped on each spark plug cable roll some rounds of electric tape on top for a firmer positioning.

Select the spark plug firing sequence for one cylinder motor along one or two firings setting per revolution. Float the boat and warm the motor at neutral idle for at least 3 minutes, check each individual tach reading. Adjust +,- each carb’s pilot’s screw for each tach to read idle rpm as close as possible to each other.

This is a awesome method to check individual carb’s idle adjustment factory delivered with new out of the box motors and have those settings handy as a reference for future adjustments.

With used motors who’s carb’s parts have been fully disassembled, cleaned to perfection and reassembled again with pilot’s screws heads set to previous caliper measured gap or with same number of in-out turns factory stated, this method will reveal how accurate or not both procedures were set while the motor sufficiently warmed up revs at slow idle rpm.

Induction tachs when reading 2 stroke motor’s slow idle rpm may achieve erratic rpm readings, if so, throttle a tad more to fast idle side which should cancel or lessen the erratic display behavior. Don’t throttle past fast idle speed as the carbs will work on the high speed jet side which will dial a much higher rpm than needed.

Once carbs are idling fine and even adjust if needed the idle speed stop screw to it’s idle factory specs and as the french say voilá...

Happy Boating
I’m still finishing up the house repairs. That deep freeze we had here in Texas did not help. I just knew I was going to find a cracked head or lower unit since we never prepare for weather of that kind. Everything looks good though. A couple more fixtures in the house and finally back to the boat. I like the tachometer method. I may get a couple more to go with the one I just got. As always thanks for posting.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Assumed that were finishing the house repairs, take yout time. Friends that lives in Plano-Texas are experincing same awfull extremely cold weather. Before buying more induction tachs would be nice to check if the motor stills runs smooth at idle with their respective pilot's screws gapped back to previous ones measured with the caliper ?

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
Assumed that were finishing the house repairs, take yout time. Friends that lives in Plano-Texas are experincing same awfull extremely cold weather. Before buying more induction tachs would be nice to check if the motor stills runs smooth at idle with their respective pilot's screws gapped back to previous ones measured with the caliper ?

Happy Boating
I made it out to the shop this evening and got all 3 carburetors ready to go. I have the pilot screws set with the caliper to exactly where they were when I pulled them off the engine. I’m hoping it falls into place and runs smooth from the get go. Going to have to wait a couple days to install and crank it though. One question. The specs in post #123 say to measure the floats on the opposite end of the pivot point. My floats slant downward towards the front and would not be level and would take some adjusting. The illustration in post 123 shows a level float without the slant. I measured the top rather than the end of the slope and needed no adjustments. Your thoughts sir?
Lived here all my life and never has it stayed as cold for that long. We’re fortunate to not have more damage than we did.
 
Last edited:

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Is it possible to upload a pic of the float showing what indicated. Does all 3 carbs have the same condition ? So the carbs have 3 new valve seats installed and well base seated. Are the float's needles the previous ones or were replaced for new ones ? Out of curiosity, were the pilot's screw gap more or less even or slight off between them when measured with the caliper ?

Happy Boating
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
Multi Carb Idle Balancer.-

Anyone can carb balance 2 strokes motors if knowing how to using any of the usual 3 balancing methods :

(1) Installing a mechanical vacuum balancer Carbtune type wherever possible to connect it to achieve a fine spot on individual idle carb adjustment.
(2) Measuring with a caliper the Pilot’s head gap in between the upper head and the screw's flat base as described in post 42.
(3) Playing with Pilot’s Screw number of In-Out turns for each individual carb adjustment.
(4) New Individual Tach Balancer : Depending on the number of cylinders per motor will need to count with one basic induction tach for each carb as seen. Once tapped in a row on the air silencer...

View attachment 334307

View attachment 334308

Route each tach pick-up wire in a straight line onto each individual ignition coil with at least 3-4 tight wire wraps. Once wrapped on each spark plug cable roll some rounds of electric tape on top for a firmer positioning.

Select the spark plug firing sequence for one cylinder motor along one or two firings setting per revolution. Float the boat and warm the motor at neutral idle for at least 3 minutes, check each individual tach reading. Adjust +,- each carb’s pilot’s screw for each tach to read idle rpm as close as possible to each other.

This is a awesome method to check individual carb’s idle adjustment factory delivered with new out of the box motors and have those settings handy as a reference for future adjustments.

With used motors who’s carb’s parts have been fully disassembled, cleaned to perfection and reassembled again with pilot’s screws heads set to previous caliper measured gap or with same number of in-out turns factory stated, this method will reveal how accurate or not both procedures were set while the motor sufficiently warmed up revs at slow idle rpm.

Induction tachs when reading 2 stroke motor’s slow idle rpm may achieve erratic rpm readings, if so, throttle a tad more to fast idle side which should cancel or lessen the erratic display behavior. Don’t throttle past fast idle speed as the carbs will work on the high speed jet side which will dial a much higher rpm than needed.

Once carbs are idling fine and even adjust if needed the idle speed stop screw to it’s idle factory specs and as the french say voilá...

Happy Boating
Total nonsense...if cylinder one is at 800 RPM the others will be also. Any adjustment that raise/lowers a RPM will effect ALL cylinders. Thats like saying on a V-8 you can adjust 1 bank to idle at different RPM than the other with the carb mix screw...total hogwash
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
Is it possible to upload a pic of the float showing what indicated. Does all 3 carbs have the same condition ? So the carbs have 3 new valve seats installed and well base seated. Are the float's needles the previous ones or were replaced for new ones ? Out of curiosity, were the pilot's screw gap more or less even or slight off between them when measured with the caliper ?

Happy Boating
I found another illustration of my carburetors that shows measuring from the side as I did. Everything is new. Seats , needles, and floats. All sitting level looking at the seem and at 15mm to the top. The top and middle pilots measured close to the same. The bottom was out more a bit more. Don’t have the measurements on hand right now to tell the difference .
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
That's fine, just wanted to know how close or appart the pilot's screws were gapped with respect to each other. If the carbs have not been previously fiddled with should retain their factory settings delivered with. With all carb's floats leveled to 15 mm the motor should idle spot on.

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
That's fine, just wanted to know how close or appart the pilot's screws were gapped with respect to each other. If the carbs have not been previously fiddled with should retain their factory settings delivered with. With all carb's floats leveled to 15 mm the motor should idle spot on.

Happy Boating
Tomorrow’s the big day. The carburetors are back and hooked up. I have to go get fuel and that’s about 15 miles away for the non ethanol. The fuel water separator was cracked so I replaced it today. I guess I over tightened the fitting and the cold weather got it. I don’t think these are factory settings for the pilots. Top carburetor caliper reading is 10.20mm which is 1 3/4 turns out. Middle carburetor is 10.26mm which is 2 turns. Bottom carburetor how ever is 11.78mm over 4 turns. It was also the one missing a screw from the float bowl. The bottom one may be a concern. All of the floats were way off when I first opened them up. 22.83mm , 23.30mm , and 18.84. But it always started and idled I even took it out and ran strong at wot. Fuel leaking is the reason I did the carburetors and found a mess when I opened them. I just remembered I’m going to check gap on the plugs before starting as well. If rebuilding the carburetors make that much difference then my boats going to fly. Lol I’ll be reporting back in tomorrow either screaming for help or I’ll be one happy old man ready to start on wiring which I’ve planned out and have everything on the way. Oh also have everything for the new seats I’m building as well. Be glad to start this other stuff.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Before installing the air silencer back, report if all all carb's once hooked to the tall vertical link rod remains closed at min/idle throttle grip position. My boating Club has a new out of the box 2 T Yam 60 HP, just per pure fun will check the pilot's screws factory gapped to to see how close or not are with respect of each other. It would be interesting to know which method is Yam currently using to idle balance their 2 strokes 3+ multi carbed motors. The know all boater that likes to demonize my posts will surely know so to provide a spot-on tech answer...

If the idle setting of each carb is way off with respect to each other will see the motor shaking, revving non smoothly and when removing the spark plugs find that some are cleaner other darker. Ideal would be to find all plug's tips darkened to a light brown chocolate looking.

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
Before installing the air silencer back, report if all all carb's once hooked to the tall vertical link rod remains closed at min/idle throttle grip position. My boating Club has a new out of the box 2 T Yam 60 HP, just per pure fun will check the pilot's screws factory gapped to to see how close or not are with respect of each other. It would be interesting to know which method is Yam currently using to idle balance their 2 strokes 3+ multi carbed motors. The know all boater that likes to demonize my posts will surely know so to provide a spot-on tech answer...

If the idle setting of each carb is way off with respect to each other will see the motor shaking, revving non smoothly and when removing the spark plugs find that some are cleaner other darker. Ideal would be to find all plug's tips darkened to a light brown chocolate looking.

Happy Boating
Had a nasty weather day i didn’t see coming or I would’ve stayed at it last night and started it. So tomorrow is the day for sure. No rain and a little warmer.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
This is how factory sets them......and its a tad on the rich side . Only adjust when engine has reached operating temp. There is NO predetermined length on screw, just turns out as this is a initial or base setting. The 1/4 turn is for machining and wear tolerance. So set em at 1-1/2 out and should be good to go. Save your $$ on purchasing multiple tachs or vacuum balancer as will not work as poster thinks they will..
yam40-2.JPG
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
That's the procedure every motor manufacturer recommends their clients to go for, still isn't known if the factory uses it, uses a vaccum gauge or whichever other method which probably will never know. Friday will measure a 3 cylinder carbed motor which their carbs has not been manipulated nor serviced before to check which height, gap each pilot's screw were factory adjusted to just for plain curiosity and fun.

If you set all 3 piloit's screws to the same height, gap, number of in-out screw turns will not 100% guarantee that when installing a vacuum meter on each carb will idle at same exact rpm and that's what you're looking for if happen to be a perfectionist maniac with your multi carbed motors. The overall idea will be in serious doubt since in many two-stroke motors can't possibly install a vacuum meter say a Carbtune state of the art one to check that out.

This in-out number of screw turns procedure it's more of a basic coarse idle adjustment compared to a super fine rpm idle adjustment achieved with a vacuum meter, multiple ind tachs adjustments.

To be perfectly clear, the predetermined screw lenght, gap applies well if wanting to restore the pilot's screws at same factory position on new out of the box motors, ideal when disassembling full carbs to clean them well and assembling them back with such factory setting with which the motor worked fantastically well before. If the carbs have been manipulated by shade tree mechanics it's the initial way to go.

With this particular 40 HP motor which had an awfull internal carb scenario with multiple tech issues which has been corrected and their respective pilot's screw restored to previous extremely uneven height gap scenario will see if the motor idles even and smooth to the untrained ear ?

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
That's the procedure every motor manufacturer recommends their clients to go for, still isn't known if the factory uses it, uses a vaccum gauge or whichever other method which probably will never know. Friday will measure a 3 cylinder carbed motor which their carbs has not been manipulated nor serviced before to check which height, gap each pilot's screw were factory adjusted to just for plain curiosity and fun.

If you set all 3 piloit's screws to the same height, gap, number of in-out screw turns will not 100% guarantee that when installing a vacuum meter on each carb will idle at same exact rpm and that's what you're looking for if happen to be a perfectionist maniac with your multi carbed motors. The overall idea will be in serious doubt since in many two-stroke motors can't possibly install a vacuum meter say a Carbtune state of the art one to check that out.

This in-out number of screw turns procedure it's more of a basic coarse idle adjustment compared to a super fine rpm idle adjustment achieved with a vacuum meter, multiple ind tachs adjustments.

To be perfectly clear, the predetermined screw lenght, gap applies well if wanting to restore the pilot's screws at same factory position on new out of the box motors, ideal when disassembling full carbs to clean them well and assembling them back with such factory setting with which the motor worked fantastically well before. If the carbs have been manipulated by shade tree mechanics it's the initial way to go.

With this particular 40 HP motor which had an awfull internal carb scenario with multiple tech issues which has been corrected and their respective pilot's screw restored to previous extremely uneven height gap scenario will see if the motor idles even and smooth to the untrained ear ?

Happy Boating
It’s alive and no fuel leaks anywhere! I let it run a while until my ir thermometer read 138. The engine was a little rough and shook a little. I started adjusting the bottom carburetor since it was out a lot more than the others. I turn in 1/4 and waited. No change so I did it again. That’s when I realized the linkage was not all the way up touching the idle screw. Was able to move it up and the rpms went down then it purred like a kitten. Before I could go any further it started heating up. No matter what I do I can’t get this thing to run on muffs. Tomorrow I’ll put it back in the tank and continue to run fresh cool water in it so that water doesn’t get hot. But I need to figure out why it didn’t return itself to idle and see if It will throttle up smoothly. From what I understand that should go smooth if I have it idling correctly. I was so excited I’d forgotten the tachometer so I’ll have it on tomorrow as well. I believe proper idle is at 800rpm. I will try to find out for sure. I’m going to start over by putting the pilot back to original setting and get the rpms right before any adjustments If any. I forgot to check that throttle position for you but I’ll report back tomorrow.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
1) The factory setting is 1-1/2 turns out the +/- 1/4 is for cylinder differences
2) You cannot use a vacuum gauge on any 2 stroke
3) The only way your multi tach idea would work is if crankshaft had a ratchet clutch between all cylinders...really need to think this theory thru
4) Douglas...you cannot adjust carbs correctly on muffs..you can get close. The correct way is in a tub or at lake so the motor has back pressure and at temp. The reason you do this at temp is the fuel atomizes better in a warm cylinder than cold.
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
1) The factory setting is 1-1/2 turns out the +/- 1/4 is for cylinder differences
2) You cannot use a vacuum gauge on any 2 stroke
3) The only way your multi tach idea would work is if crankshaft had a ratchet clutch between all cylinders...really need to think this theory thru
4) Douglas...you cannot adjust carbs correctly on muffs..you can get close. The correct way is in a tub or at lake so the motor has back pressure and at temp. The reason you do this at temp is the fuel atomizes better in a warm cylinder than cold.
I’ll be running it in a tub today. Checking temperature with an ir thermometer so I know it’s warmed up. Haven’t bought any more tachometers. Just hooking up the one to check the rpm at idle.
 

Sea Rider

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Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
With a 5 minute warm up at idle the motor should be sufficiently warmed. Is it posible to test the motor with combo resting on water while anchored instead than on muffs, tub, barrel whatever holds lots of gallons of water.

Being the pilot's screws found so far away from each other and having rebuilt all 3 carbs to perfection, much better will be to adjust all pilot's screws starting 1 turn out, check how the motor idles, increase 1/4-1/2 turns more if needed. 2 strokes motors likes runing bit rich than lean.

Don't forget that all carbs must rest at idle with all their butterflies at closed position, adjust if needed. Will be good to go for a compression test on all 3 cylinders. Did you drilled the small orifces on the air silencer right in middle of each carb's throats LOL!!

Don't buy more tachs, have many, will test with a Yam 85 as soon have the key to start the motor, owner is out of the city and should be comming back in a week or so.

Happy Boating
 

Douglasdzaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
315
With a 5 minute warm up at idle the motor should be sufficiently warmed. Is it posible to test the motor with combo resting on water while anchored instead than on muffs, tub, barrel whatever holds lots of gallons of water.

Being the pilot's screws found so far away from each other and having rebuilt all 3 carbs to perfection, much better will be to adjust all pilot's screws starting 1 turn out, check how the motor idles, increase 1/4-1/2 turns more if needed. 2 strokes motors likes runing bit rich than lean.

Don't forget that all carbs must rest at idle with all their butterflies at closed position, adjust if needed. Will be good to go for a compression test on all 3 cylinders. Did you drilled the small orifces on the air silencer right in middle of each carb's throats LOL!!

Don't buy more tachs, have many, will test with a Yam 85 as soon have the key to start the motor, owner is out of the city and should be comming back in a week or so.

Happy Boating
I did just about everything you described earlier this morning. Including adjusting the butterflies where I have wot and closed at idle. The engine help it’s prime from yesterday. All I had to do was choke it one pull and it fired right up. It’s running smoother than it ever has since I got it. And when I hit the throttle it’s instant power. All that and not a drop of fuel from anywhere. Can’t wait until I get time to lake test it. I haven’t drilled the holes yet but I ordered and have the cleaner you suggested. Spent the rest of the day until dark wiring the boat and installed my fish finder. I have a problem with the trailer I need to address next. For a flat bottom it’s hard to get it in the water. Boats putting to much pressure on the front roller. The back of the boat will float but the front is stuck to the trailer and the lakes and river are all so low I can’t back in any farther. I really appreciate everything. I was so proud of myself I did a video of it running and sent it to my wife at work. Again many thanks.
 
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