Thermostat housing hole.

[Douglasdzaster]

Kits are $75-$85 depending on where you get them. I’m ready to fallow your instructions and find out if I need any parts when I open them up. If it is a good idea to replace the bowl gaskets I’ll get them on the way otherwise I’ll await your instructions sir. I just looked and you’re right OEM float chamber gaskets are under $9.

Other parts for the thermostat just got dropped off but it looks like I’ll have to wait to get at it tomorrow afternoon. It would be awesome if I’m able to fix the carburetors without shelling out more $ on the project. Thanks again for guiding me through this.

 

[Sea Rider]

Kits are $75-$85 depending on where you get them. I’m ready to fallow your instructions and find out if I need any parts when I open them up. If it is a good idea to replace the bowl gaskets I’ll get them on the way otherwise I’ll await your instructions sir. I just looked and you’re right OEM float chamber gaskets are under $9.

Better wait and not order a full carb kit untill the carbs are opened up and check which parts will be needed, float gaskets will be the way to go as a starter. About the Pilot's Screw Removal and Reinstallation.

For each individual carb, using the rear depth stick of a vernier caliper tool measure the height of the pilot's head to any flat surface located on the carb body. The idea is to remove and reinstall them as when factory delivered assuming the carbs still have the factory settings. Tohatsu, Yamaha adjust their carbs at sea level so if boating at sea level the factory setting should work spot on.

Measure each pilot screw individually, write down on a paper its height or take a photo of the vernier achieved height. Can do so after the carb has been split open and the upper part is more friendly to be measured. Theoretically all 3 carbs should work at same pilot's head height. The pilot screw it's just an idle setting, if well adjusted the motor will idle very smooth, if not will idle bit erratic, when the carbs passes the idle, ralenti setting that's when opening up the throttle not an issue as the jets are fixed and nothing to adjust. When the carb clean has ended put each pilot screw back to their individual vernier height setting.

For 2 and more carbed motors need an electronic vacuum tester to set all carbs at same vacuum numbers if like precision state of the art settings, but the vernier measurement will do its job nicely provided that your motor was idling nicely before which isn't known ? Anything not clear, simply ask...

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Better wait and not order a full carb kit untill the carbs are opened up and check which parts will be needed, float gaskets will be the way to go as a starter. About the Pilot's Screw Removal and Reinstallation.

For each individual carb, using the rear depth stick of a vernier caliper tool measure the height of the pilot's head to any flat surface located on the carb body. The idea is to remove and reinstall them as when factory delivered assuming the carbs still have the factory settings. Tohatsu, Yamaha adjust their carbs at sea level so if boating at sea level the factory setting should work spot on.

Measure each pilot screw individually, write down on a paper its height or take a photo of the vernier achieved height. Can do so after the carb has been split open and the upper part is more friendly to be measured. Theoretically all 3 carbs should work at same pilot's head height. The pilot screw it's just an idle setting, if well adjusted the motor will idle very smooth, if not will idle bit erratic, when the carbs passes the idle, ralenti setting that's when opening up the throttle not an issue as the jets are fixed and nothing to adjust. When the carb clean has ended put each pilot screw back to their individual vernier height setting.

For 2 and more carbed motors need an electronic vacuum tester to set all carbs at same vacuum numbers if like precision state of the art settings, but the vernier measurement will do its job nicely provided that your motor was idling nicely before which isn't known ? Anything not clear, simply ask...

Happy Boating​

I’ll get a vernier caliper tool. The motor idles and runs great now just the leakage. I’ll post when ready to get started. So far I understand what we’re doing and will make sure I get the measurements spot on for the pilot screws. I really appreciate the guidance.

 

[Sea Rider]

If fuel is overflowing the carb when priming the bulb past firm condition it's a needle & seat tech issue not doing their homework right. The micro polishing cleaning procedure is as follows :

-With fuel bowl sitting up on a flat surface, remove all the jets the float and attached needle. Clean all jets separately.
-Get a wooden meat skewer, a wooden sushi stick and roll a thin piece of cotton on tip to form a large cotton swab.
-Dampen in water, roll again the cotton tip as to hold firm against pointed tip.
-Apply an overdose of toothpaste of your preference brand on tip.
-Insert tip on needle's seat, with both hands grabbing stick in middle, roll it sideways firmly down as when polishing valves on a motor block.
-Dispose the old cotton and roll a new one in, wet it, add more toothpaste. Repeat this process until the cotton comes out white clean.
-Re install all jets, needle and float back into carb's bowl.
-Proper time to change the middle carb's (s) gasket (s) for new ones.
-Prime the bulb till firm, check if the fuel spill through the throat was solved.

Note: all needles must be sharp pointy, if found rounded install new ones. Inspect the needle's seat condition with a flashlight before and after micro polishing. Once done the internal seat should look perfectly polished as in third pic, will assure a perfect marriage between the needle's tip and the seat. 2 stroke oils tends to accumulate gunk over time on the internal seat that sometimes isn’t properly removed with carb cleaner sprays.

Happy Boating
​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If fuel is overflowing the carb when priming the bulb past firm condition it's a needle & seat tech issue not doing their homework right. The micro polishing cleaning procedure is as follows :

-With fuel bowl sitting up on a flat surface, remove all the jets the float and attached needle. Clean all jets separately.
-Get a wooden meat skewer, a wooden sushi stick and roll a thin piece of cotton on tip to form a large cotton swab.
-Dampen in water, roll again the cotton tip as to hold firm against pointed tip.
-Apply an overdose of toothpaste of your preference brand on tip.
-Insert tip on needle's seat, with both hands grabbing stick in middle, roll it sideways firmly down as when polishing valves on a motor block.
-Dispose the old cotton and roll a new one in, wet it, add more toothpaste. Repeat this process until the cotton comes out white clean.
-Re install all jets, needle and float back into carb's bowl.
-Proper time to change the middle carb's (s) gasket (s) for new ones.
-Prime the bulb till firm, check if the fuel spill through the throat was solved.

Note: all needles must be sharp pointy, if found rounded install new ones. Inspect the needle's seat condition with a flashlight before and after micro polishing. Once done the internal seat should look perfectly polished as in third pic, will assure a perfect marriage between the needle's tip and the seat. 2 stroke oils tends to accumulate gunk over time on the internal seat that sometimes isn’t properly removed with carb cleaner sprays.

Happy Boating
​

Thanks so much. I may not get to it until after Christmas as we are busy with 10 grandchildren scattered all over Texas. When cleaning is there a certain type of carburetor cleaner preference or is my b12 ok?

 

[Sea Rider]

Thanks so much. I may not get to it until after Christmas as we are busy with 10 grandchildren scattered all over Texas. When cleaning is there a certain type of carburetor cleaner preference or is my b12 ok?

If I need to soak the splitted carb body usually use acrylic/lacquer thinner after all rubber, plastic parts were removed.. The soaking time will depend on how much gunked the carbs are found. Then can apply any Carb Cleaner Spray at each possible hole and dry with compressed air after application. Merry Christmas best as possible!!

Happy Boating

​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Thanks again. Maybe I’ll get lucky and they won’t need to soak. Merry Christmas to you as well.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Before we started Christmas I had pulled the drains again and this time flushed out the carburetors with the bulb. Seemed to help the next day so I ran it on the muffs and checked for water leaks etc. Motor ran good.
I checked it this morning and found a little fuel in the throats of the middle and bottom carburetors but it looks to me like the gaskets may be leaking after all. Here are a few pictures. There is also one of the fuel pump where it looks like it’s connected to the oil pump (not in use). Can I disconnect this and plug it or should I find a new piece of hose to fit it? I know the new fuel pumps I’ve looked at only have a line in and a line out. It may just be touching the bottom of the fuel pump but the line is so brittle looking I’ve been afraid to move it.

 

[Sea Rider]

If the middle and lower carb gaskets were dried, hardened and with fuel leaks, fuel spills should be found around the middle carb body and not exiting the carb's throats. Yam carbs uses large rubber o'rings gaskets not old school carton gaskets. If the motor now runs on premix 50:1 fuel/oil ratio remove the existing hose and seal with a rubber cap, wooden sushi stick tip where it connects to.

Anyway if the middle and lower carb's "rubber gaskets" are suspect will need to remove all 3 carbs and perform a preventive internal maintenance on each one. Will you be willing to go towards that DIY work ?

Happy Boating​

 

[Faztbullet]

What a load of miss information...... carbs from factory do not come set at the same measurement and cannot be set with caliper's. Do to manufacturing tolerances in block ,casting imperfections in carb body each cylinder is adjusted to best idle (A/F Ratio). Heck even if the oil/fuel ratio is to heavy it will change the A/F ratio and cause motor to run lean(more oil less fuel) The guys that run heavier mixtures have to rejet to compensate for this. If you really want to get close use a IR gun and measure temp on plug..too lean and it will be hotter than the others...also vac tester wont work on 2 strokes..

 

[Sea Rider]

Touche, and lots of miss interpretation specially coming from you. Throttle down, hold your combo, no one said that all 3 PS comes factory adjusted at same height, a caliper will tell the height difference if such. OTOH why is everyone adjusting PS with exact number of in-out turns, if backed say 5 half turns all 3 PS will have the same height when measured with a caliper.

Measuring with a caliper it's an good alternative rather than to count the in-out carb's PS turns assuming that the carbs retain their factory setting so to set exact same before performing an internal carb maintenance. Read well post 42 before bashing the post along adding final idiotic comparisons that has nothing to do with the OP post.

It's entirely to the OP if wants to count the PS in-out turns, use a vernier caliper or buy a Carbtune vacuum meter...

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If the middle and lower carb gaskets were dried, hardened and with fuel leaks, fuel spills should be found around the middle carb body and not exiting the carb's throats. Yam carbs uses large rubber o'rings gaskets not old school carton gaskets. If the motor now runs on premix 50:1 fuel/oil ratio remove the existing hose and seal with a rubber cap, wooden sushi stick tip where it connects to.

Anyway if the middle and lower carb's "rubber gaskets" are suspect will need to remove all 3 carbs and perform a preventive internal maintenance on each one. Will you be willing to go towards that DIY work ?

Happy Boating​

Yes sir, fuel is in the throats and around the outside . Thought maybe the top gaskets (o rings) leaking. It’s hard to tell where that came from. I want to pull all three and work them over so I’m not doing this every month. Especially since I’ve replaced everything else but the fuel pump with all new stuff . It did sit a year before I got it so the gaskets could have dried out. OEM kits are $85 for all three carburetors. I’m going to compare that to all new gaskets/ o rings. Are there any special tools I may need to get to the seats etc. ? I have some caps so put one on the oiler and one on the fuel pump? I got the caps planning on replacing the hoses with screws with them where the oil lines went in behind the carburetors.

 

[Sea Rider]

Sorry for the brief interruption. Would advice to open each carb individually and check the internal cond, if the jets, main nozzle, needle, floats are in excellent shape no need to buy a full carb kit. If not mistaken Yams have removable needle seats, if those are what you're referring to can clean/shine them following the micro polishing procedure.

At the most will only need to change all 3 rubber bowl's o'rings as a preventive carb internal maintenance. Report your findings when the carbs are opened to go from there. It's a great idea to check all the motor parts and service what's serviceable, that way will run a healthy motor for years to come.

Happy Boating

​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Yes sir, fuel is in the throats and around the outside . Thought maybe the top gaskets (o rings) leaking. It’s hard to tell where that came from. I want to pull all three and work them over so I’m not doing this every month. Especially since I’ve replaced everything else but the fuel pump with all new stuff . It did sit a year before I got it so the gaskets could have dried out. OEM kits are $85 for all three carburetors. I’m going to compare that to all new gaskets/ o rings. Are there any special tools I may need to get to the seats etc. ? I have some caps so put one on the oiler and one on the fuel pump? I got the caps planning on replacing the hoses with screws with them where the oil lines went in behind the carburetors

Sorry for the brief interruption. Would advice to open each carb individually and check the internal cond, if the jets, main nozzle, needle, floats are in excellent shape no need to buy a full carb kit. If not mistaken Yams have removable needle seats, if those are what you're referring to can clean/shine them following the micro polishing procedure.

At the most will only need to change all 3 rubber bowl's o'rings as a preventive carb internal maintenance. Report your findings when the carbs are opened to go from there. It's a great idea to check all the motor parts and service what's serviceable, that way will run a healthy motor for years to come.

Happy Boating

​

Good idea. I’m going to run it again today in a tank. One- it was on the muffs the other day and at idle got hot to the touch but when I raised the rpms a little it cooled down. I’m willing to bet it does fine in a tank since it acted the same way on the muffs before the old thermostat stuck open. Water was coming out of the tale tell but not as strong as I’ve seen it. The first thing I did when I got it was replace the water pump so that should be good. I know the muffs aren’t sealing good. And reason two is try to see exactly where the fuel is coming from after it sits. Yea I’d hate to buy parts then find out there where loose screws or something else. Lol I’ll let you know what I find when I get them opened up in the next day or so. As always I am grateful for your help.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Good idea. I’m going to run it again today in a tank. One- it was on the muffs the other day and at idle got hot to the touch but when I raised the rpms a little it cooled down. I’m willing to bet it does fine in a tank since it acted the same way on the muffs before the old thermostat stuck open. Water was coming out of the tale tell but not as strong as I’ve seen it. The first thing I did when I got it was replace the water pump so that should be good. I know the muffs aren’t sealing good. And reason two is try to see exactly where the fuel is coming from after it sits. Yea I’d hate to buy parts then find out there where loose screws or something else. Lol I’ll let you know what I find when I get them opened up in the next day or so. As always I am grateful for your help.

After I ran it today I could see fuel slowly coming out of all three throats and running down the sides. So it would seem the o rings are ok. Man I hope a thorough cleaning will fix the problem. Still planning on replacing at least the float gaskets . I’ll let you know what I find when I open them up.

 

[Sea Rider]

It's a bad idea to run any motor in a barrel as the motor will end heating up in a very short time. Can't cool a motor once the water has heated up. With muffs can gear the motor to run forward at a much higher rpm than doing so in a barrel. If you modify your current ear muffs can flush any motor with min water loss around the ears.

I'm positively sure that after all carbs are cleaned to perfection, the fuel leak will stop, just take your time cleaning them.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If fuel is overflowing the carb when priming the bulb past firm condition it's a needle & seat tech issue not doing their homework right. The micro polishing cleaning procedure is as follows :

-With fuel bowl sitting up on a flat surface, remove all the jets the float and attached needle. Clean all jets separately.
-Get a wooden meat skewer, a wooden sushi stick and roll a thin piece of cotton on tip to form a large cotton swab.
-Dampen in water, roll again the cotton tip as to hold firm against pointed tip.
-Apply an overdose of toothpaste of your preference brand on tip.
-Insert tip on needle's seat, with both hands grabbing stick in middle, roll it sideways firmly down as when polishing valves on a motor block.
-Dispose the old cotton and roll a new one in, wet it, add more toothpaste. Repeat this process until the cotton comes out white clean.
-Re install all jets, needle and float back into carb's bowl.
-Proper time to change the middle carb's (s) gasket (s) for new ones.
-Prime the bulb till firm, check if the fuel spill through the throat was solved.

Note: all needles must be sharp pointy, if found rounded install new ones. Inspect the needle's seat condition with a flashlight before and after micro polishing. Once done the internal seat should look perfectly polished as in third pic, will assure a perfect marriage between the needle's tip and the seat. 2 stroke oils tends to accumulate gunk over time on the internal seat that sometimes isn’t properly removed with carb cleaner sprays.

Happy Boating
​

Finally getting my ducks in a row so I have time to start on the carburetors. Couple of questions sir. Is it ok to leave in the seat while cleaning the carburetor body, then micro polish? And after micro polishing do I flush out the toothpaste residue with some spray cleaner?

 

[Sea Rider]

Welcome back Sir,

If referring to the needle seats leave them there while being micro polished as in previous posted pics. After micropolishing the seats with toothpaste flush them well with any Carb Cleaner Spray. Don't forget to measure with a caliper the Pilot's Screws heights before removing them. Much friendly is to measure each one individually once the upper carb has been removed from the bowl.

Would be interesting to report if all 3 carbs were found in same gunked or clean condition along the bowl's rubber gaskets condition specially the ones that are having fuel related spills.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Welcome back Sir,

If referring to the needle seats leave them there while being micro polished as in previous posted pics. After micropolishing the seats with toothpaste flush them well with any Carb Cleaner Spray. Don't forget to measure with a caliper the Pilot's Screws heights before removing them. Much friendly is to measure each one individually once the upper carb has been removed from the bowl.

Would be interesting to report if all 3 carbs were found in same gunked or clean condition along the bowl's rubber gaskets condition specially the ones that are having fuel related spills.

Happy Boating​

I’ll definitely report my findings. Got my caliper for the pilot screws. I haven’t started yet but noticed the bottom carburetors pilot screw seems to be in pretty far as the spring looks like it’s really pushed in to the point of bowing out some. Hopefully there’s nothing wrong with that carburetor. Like I said before the motor idles and runs good though. The reason I asked about the needle seats Incase I have to soak the carburetors.

 

[Sea Rider]

I’ll definitely report my findings. Got my caliper for the pilot screws. I haven’t started yet but noticed the bottom carburetors pilot screw seems to be in pretty far as the spring looks like it’s really pushed in to the point of bowing out some. Hopefully there’s nothing wrong with that carburetor. Like I said before the motor idles and runs good though. The reason I asked about the needle seats Incase I have to soak the carburetors.

Can soak each carb with their needle seat in place, should soften any formed gunk if ever formed there. As the motor idles good, the idea is to put back all 3 Pilot's Screws at the same height position found defore being disassembled. If the carbs are not that gunked can soak the carbs in lacquer thinner for say 15 minutes and soon after squirt any Carb Cleaner Spray on each possible hole specially the tiny ones.

Happy Boating​